2ManyZs

I think he was trying to say it was something simple.... kinda like a slap on the forehead?

Looks great on a Cobra or early Vette, not on a Z.:cross-eye :sick:

255/45 would need an 8-10 inch rim. Check the tread width and section width of the tire you are looking at, try to keep it under 9 to 9 1/2 inches for a 7 inch rim.

Steve, before you make another batch of home-made wine, please be sure to wash your feet thoroughly before you stomp the grapes......

If it has an older distributor, the first thing that come to my mind is the advance plate is either cracked or the bearings are falling out and the advance plate is hanging up. 3K would be about where your vaccum advance should be all in, so perhaps it's either an advance problem inside the distributor or the vacuum advance itself is going bad.

My opinion only here, but I'd save the money and when you get the mods going on the L-24 find a set of triple Weber 40 or 45 DCOE's, Dell Orto 40 DHLA's or Solex 40's. I don't think the Weber DGV 36's are enough of an upgrade over the round top SU's to warrant the cost on a stock engine, or even a midly modified one. The DGV"s were a popular upgrade on the 73 240's and early 260's to get rid of the flat top SU's that were a PITA at times.

It isn't an easy job if you have no body work experience or the right tools. It's going to be a fairly labor intensive job, cutting and fitting, so if you are going to pay a body shop to do it, it's gonna get expensive. If the job isn't done right, the whole unibody is going to lose its structural integrity, and the car is not going to be around long... If you have a set of spot weld cutters, and a mig welder, and have some practice with the welder already, do one at a time and see how it goes. The floor pans are pretty straightforward, the rockers are a bit tricky as they extend under the front fenders and they also are overlapped by the rear inner fender behind the door jamb. The floor pans are pretty much a cut out and lay them back in. You'll need to move the brake lines and gas line under the passengers side rail, after that it is just a matter of marking it them out and fitting in the new pans. If you get pans, go for the best that Zedd Findings or MSA offer, as they are the thickest metal and the strongest you can get. If you are going to pay a shop to do them, the parts are going to be about 1/3 the total cost as there will be quite a bit of labor to do the job right..

I don't have any experience with the downdrafts, but they have got to be better than a set of flat tops.... They are a bit more flexible as far as adjustability, so if the price is right, give them a shot.

They are now, I wondered how they got on in the first place with the size of them. Thought there should have been a link to view them.....:cross-eye

Go to your option block under your personal menu, click on cp and then edit options, at the bottom is a block for you to download your avatar. Pic must be less than 150x150 or 5mb in file size.

Looks good to me, of course, I'm a bit prejudiced as I have one just like it for my carwhnever it gets painted....

Most of the Gotti's I've seen were either two or three piece. I've seen a lot of them on race cars in the past, not the ones I could afford though..... They were always a quality wheel right up there with the BBS's and such as far as racing goes. I think they are owned by Ronal now, or they always were.... In fact, the GT2 car I was looking at last summer had a set to go with it. But that's now in someone elses hands.:disappoin

My money is on the white(?) one going outside... At least with all those opening in the rear, all the furry creatures in the neighborhood will have a comfy place to curl up tonight. Hope there is no sand in that one, they might mistake it for a "litter box" like mperdues car!:stupid:

Sounds like one of two things. If the fuel filter hasn't been changed in a while, it may be clogged. You could be picking up a lot of garbage out of the tank and that is clogging the pickup also. First thing I would try is to remove the fuel filter and blow air through the lines to remove any sludge or whatever form the pickup. Install a new filter(preferrably a see through) that you can keep and eye on. If it shows a lot of dirt, rust or whatever in a short time, you may need to remove the tank and have it cleaned/re-sealed. I doubt the fuel pump is the problem as it is a mechanical, once they go, they are gone, period. Since you didn't say if the car runs rough or stumbles after it stalls out and then re-starts, it is hard to tell if it could also be a vapor lock problem. If it does stumble and run rough, check the water control valve in the back of the intake manifold. Block it off and see if the car runs OK after that, if it cures the rpoblem either leave the line blocked off or get another water control valve. Since you say you have both an electric and a mechanical pump you could be having an electrical short or loose connection to the electric pump and the mechanical is not drawing the fuel through. Try re-routing the fuel line around the mechanical and just go with the electric. If it still quits, you at least know it is either a blockage in the line or the electric pump is the culprit.

I'm surprised that the kid didn't want to keep the wing-thingy, it would be more at home on a Honda afterall.....:cross-eye Seriously though, decent car, when the "thing" is gone that is.....

Motorsport Auto and Zedd Findings are the best suppliers for patch panels. You can find links to their sites in our web-links section. Motorsport is in CA and Zedd Findings is in Ontario, Canada. Not sure but many of MSA's panels may be in fact supplied by ZF, or the same supplier Charlie Osbourne gets his from..... These are the most reputible suppliers of panels, there are a few others, but these are the ones I would trust.

Ok, now I might have seen the problem. The 73 bumper sat out from the body a little further and had a rubber filler piece on the ends to "blend" it into the body and fill the gap. It looks almost far enough out in the first pic but it's hard to tell how far the gap is. I'd say someone may have put the bumper mounts from an earlier bumper on in order to set the bumper back closer to the body. Take a look at the mounts coming from the body out to the bumper, if they are just a flat piece of steel then they are the earlier mounts. If they are a beam with a round tube on the end that the bumper fits over then they are the later (correct) mounts. You might need to change them and get the rubber filler pieces if you want it back to original specs. IMO, it looks better with the bumper set back and would take the bumper guards and overrider off. The bumper guards were standard, but the overriders were an dealer add on. Go to an auto parts store and get a pair of stainless bumper bolts and put it in the hole that mounts the bumper guard and you're all set...... Not sure if I can find a pic of the 73 mounts, but if I come across one I'll post it. Motorsport Auto has the 73 mounts new, but they are 93 bucks a piece:tapemouth The earlier mounts for the 70-72 are only 27 a piece. Now you can see the difference, one is just a bent piece of flat steel while the other is made quite differently.... The bumpers themselves are all the same, the only difference is in the mounts. There might be a little bit of adjustment in the mounts but not sure if it will give you the clearance you need. Before you do anything, loosen the mounting bolts on the mounts and see if you can pull it out any.

Hard to tell with the pic, but is the top bar (what we call the overrider) mounted on top of the rubber on the bumper guards? If it is then it might need to be put under the rubber or you could just remove it. That's one of the things that was always a bit of a problem with using the overriders, they gave very little room for the hood and if the bumper was ever hit or the bar mounted incorrectly it would interfere with the hood. You could either remove just the overrider or you could remove the bumper guards all together until you can find a way to mount the bar without interferring with the hood.

Mike has just been smelling that skunk p--s too long... There isn't anything wrong with a Dodge! I've had 4 Rams since 94 and only had one I didn't love. They messed with the computers because of the new emissions control and got lousy gas mileage out of the 318 in the 2000 Ram I had. Get the new diesel and all you'll see of a Ford is them disappearing in the rear view mirror! I'm wondering one thing, why does Nissan have the rear hinged back doors when the rest are going to the front hinged doors.... And what's with the hatch behind the rear wheel?

Actually that is a fair price, it is one of only a few 240's that is still reasonably competitive in ITS today. I've seen this car pictured in quite a few magazines over the years. Best part of the car is that it is still in great shape for all the years it has been on the track, and it is a 70 model.

Two other places to check out carefully are the rear fender lips all the way down to where it meets the rocker panel end, the area we refer to as the dogleg. If you find a lot of bondo on the outer fender lip, it's quite possible the whole quarter may need to be replaced as well as the inside fender well... not an hard job, but very time consuming.. Also the frame rails in the engine compartment have the uncanny ability to rust out from the inside out, so check along the seam where it meets the inner fender inside the fender well, and around the sway bar mount. Pressing on the inside edge facing the engine will somtimes tell you if it is weak or not, if it flexes, it's about to go...... Most all the places that rust have patch panels, except for the inner fenders themselves and the are under the battery tray. You can get aftermarket patch panels from a couple different sources

You could also try Too Intense Restorations or Andy Russell, they may have what you need or know how to get them. Contact Troy at Too Intense by clicking their ad on our site, and you can contact Andy at z@datsundude.com or call him at (480) 343-2962, I don't see what you are looking for on Andy's price list, but that doesn't mean he can't get them.

I'd have to agree the car is a bit overpriced. It looks to be in pretty fair shape but it does have its share of problems. Being an original paint car would make it worth the asking price only if it didn't need to be re-painted.... You could easily end up with another 2-3K spent on a paint job(if you provide a lot of the labor) and all the small things the car needs to bring it up to par. Mechanically it doesn't sound bad, but the mechanical part is typically the easiest and cheapest to repair as there are many choices as far as mechanical parts still available for these cars. I'd say it might be worth more like between 3 and 4 thousand.... however, since it is an east coast car, finding one in as good a shape as this one is going to be kinda difficult, unless you want to buy one on the west coast and bring it back. There are so many more cars available on the west coast that are in comparable shape for much less it's a judgement call on your part.

See this thread.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=4114

Or his ad was aimed at members of those "other" Z sites.... :devious: