2ManyZs

Zme, why not go with the Z Club of Northern VA? Since they are both out of the DC/Baltimore area, it wouldn't make much difference would it?:cross-eye Take a look at this thread one of our members is also in the MD Z club... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3847 BTW, you miss your Z already?:devious: :stupid:

From what I have read, all the heads after the N-42 had steel seats. And if you look at Bryan Little's site, according to testing, the N-47 actually has better exhaust flow characteristics than the square port head....and that is with the liner... So if you have a manifold maybe you should go ahead with the N-47...

As far as I know the valve diameter is the same in all the later heads. The late 74 260 E-88, N42, P79, P90 P90A all have the same diameter valves, the only difference is in the stem length. The P79-P90A have a stem length that is .080 difference from the E-88, N42, N47...Can't remember which ones are longer.....IIRC it the earlier heads that have the longer stems, but don't quote me on that. You can get valves from MSA, VB and probably Nismoparts.com as well. I don't know about the N47 head on any car other than the Z as to what they may have had as far as valve sizes etc.... One thing to consider is this, the N42 has square exhaust ports whereas the N47 has round ports... so if you are going to use the N47 you're gonna need another exhaust manifold... If the N42 isn't in bad shape other than the bent valves and already has the steel valve seats, IMHO, I'd stick with that one you have since it doesn't need another manifold .....Just something to consider.

225/60 and 225/50 will fit in 14 inch with no problem under the stock fenders on a 0 offset 7 inch rim. You might be able to go just a wee bit wider on the tire if you play with the backspacing a bit......

Hard to believe a female would even reply to this......... Thought womens' ages were always a well kept secret?:devious: :cross-eye

Only time I've ever seen the dipstick pop out and oil spray out of the tube is when the crankcase wasn't vented properly. Like when someone takes off the smog garbage and doesn't vent the breather correctly or the breather vent becomes clogged. Haven't seen it just because of over-revving, but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen.

WHAT???? NO neon colors??? I smell a "rice-boy" revolt! :stupid: Gee, ribbed but not flourescent? :disappoin

Like the lawyers who are now suing a gun manufacturer because the "Snipers" used their product illegally? Wonder how long it will be before they start a suit against all the auto manufacturers? Drunk drivers use their products to kill and maim everyday... Oh hell, hope a lawyer doesn't read this, it might give them an idea.... Doubt they could come up with an idea on their own...

Not many honest mechanics can afford to drive 7 series BMW's or S class Mercedes.... So why does an "immoral" lawyer take his BMW out to look for an "honest" mechanic... Something wrong with this picture?

Someone has been "peeing" in the gene pool... 2ManyZs

That's the reason one of my first ideas was to get an Factory Service Manual. It gives all the resistance values for all the sensors, and tells how to test them through the plug at the ECM and which pins to use to do the checks....anything is better than "guesstimating"..... I'm a bit stumped when it comes to FI because I'm not a good "electrician", those little electrons are harder to find than those elusive "nauga's" for interior parts.....

Sounds like there might be something in the AFM. Take the plastic cover off the side and check to see if there is any corrosion on the rheostat. You might also check the connector on the side as well. Seems like I just saw an AFM on Ebay for a ZX... you might want to look and see if you can buy a used one for cheap and try that, never hurts to have an extra like that around if it doesn't work.....

I'd just like to have enough to be able to bid on something like this, let alone own it...:mad: :devious: What a "toy" this could be....:cheeky: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1876758679

Shame I couldn't have sold my pickup quick enough.... I could have put up with 3 small flaws.....

I can't remember if the nuts are welded to the backside of the door jamb, or if they are captured in a plate that is then welded to the jamb..... Either way, if the nuts are loose and/or turning, you've got a bit of a problem...:tapemouth :disappoin

Or they are hoping since he lowered his reserve, that they will be able to get a sweet deal....:cross-eye 56 minutes to go.....

You can replace them if you want to cut out the door jamb.... Best to try running a tap through them in the correct size first, and if they still don't look good, then drill and tap the next size larger.....If you drill the broken one out right, you may not have to drill it and re-tap in a larger size. Try to stay the same size if possible. Running a tap through to clean the threads and new bolts might do the trick.

They have a captured nut built into the door jamb for the mounting bolts. If you are stripping out the threads in the mounts, you'll have to re-tap them. If you are just stripping the threads on the bolts, get new bolts and run a tap through the mounting nuts to make sure the threads are OK. You can get a new striker assembly with new bolts and all the parts from Andy Russell, at z@datsundude.com for 69 bucks, this includes the shims and the the the spring loaded receivers.......

The bottom end is strong enough to take a fairly good sized shot, that is, if the fuel and ignition system is set up for it. I'd stay 100hp or less unless you plan on doing some fairly serious fuel system and ignition system upgrades. Detonation or lack of fuel will quickly kill any engine with nitrous. Even a 50 or 75hp shot would make a pretty good kick in the pants in a Z.

The spanner wrench (or platform wrench) for the coil overs should be a fairly generic item, you should be able to get one from a racing parts supplier fairly easily..... You could make one with a large set of slip of joint pliers if need be, just get a small tab welded onto the jaws to fit into the slot of the platform on each jaw. Or, you could grind off part of the teeth on the jaws and leave a small raised section. Just make sure the pliers will open wide enough to fit over the platform. A new set of pliers will cost more than the spanner wrench, but if you have an old rusty pair laying around.......

Here's the one that goes on the bottom of the shifter. One of our members has them in his Ebay auctions.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2400364043&category=6769

If that fails, start with the basics.... Air filter not clogged, air flow meter operating properly, fuel filter, etc........There could be any one of a dozen reasons for this problem:disappoin

Sorry Squeaky, errr Carl, I'd have to agree with Enrique. This one is a trailer queen, perhaps even more collectible than a Z Store car. It's in un-molested shape, and a low mileage car.... Only thing I don't like is the color....:sick: :cross-eye

Try unplugging the cold start valve (injector) in the front of the manifold and see if it makes any difference. It could be a water temp sensor or the air temp sensor that is causing it to think it needs to enrichen the mix (it acts just like an electric choke)when it really doesn't. BTW, the best thing I can tell you to do is buy a Factory Service Manual. It will give you numerous tests to do to determine problems in the Fuel Injection and Ignition. These systems are a bit primitive by todays standards, but they can get quite complicated when trying to track down a possible electrical problem like this....