madkaw

I still get a thud unloading the drivetrain at low rpms in a higher gear . I still dance with the clutch to avoid the thud and I have the sandwich set up . Sometimes I think my r-180 moustache bar is not up to the task of 230 ft pounds and posi tract rear . I’ve about given up trying to figure it out what the noise is . I can drive my car hard and never hear a thud , but under certain circumstances i get a distinct thud . If I cruise around 40 mph in 4th gear and keep the throttle steady and push the clutch pedal in and out , it will thud every time letting the clutch out . That’s releasing the clutch swiftly . Granted - I don’t drive that way - but wonder where all that movement is

Yes . The seal doesn’t want to squeeze down at the top of the door body . It also binds on the forward part of the door .

My first run of precision seals ? - No - they never broke in . That’s why I wonder if 10 years later it’s the same thing . Like I said - the Kia seals were an immediate transformation . They have never leaked either . That’s why I say it’s a design flaw and not just needing to be broke in . It’s hard to pass on to a customer to let their door seals break in - just slam your doors for a while . I’ll see how Vintage does .

It was many years ago that I used a Precision weatherstrip kit on my Z . I remember how the door seals just didn"t work. You had to slam the doors and they didn't want to break in . I eventually went with Kia door seals , but they discontinued them. I thought that I had read more recently that their design had changed and folks were having good luck with them. Well I just received a full kit and the door seals still suck. Same deal-doors have to be slammed against the hard rubber . I just ordered the spendy Vintage rubber set -hope I'm not disappointed again.

I don’t see how the journals polished out . They would have cut to clean up the scratches in those pics . the scoring behind the water pump is not part of the head . That’s the timing cover that will need to be replaced . you need to find out what you have before you spend money on junk . Find out how thick the head is and if it’s flat . Then a pressure check . If the towers are bad , it’s probably because the head is -or was warped . Not sure I would cut any more than .080 . Shameless plug . I do have a p90 for sale that is shaved and ready to roll and it’s shaved .080 - with good towers ! Just PM me if interested .

I would suggest getting another head . You are going to have a difficult time reinventing the wheel . You should be able to measure head thickness . Making your own bearings ? In all the years in these sites I’ve never heard of anyone putting bearings in the cam towers .

That doesn’t look good

Why the line bore ? Can you swap out towers ?

You want to stay internally oiled . No difference in metallurgy . Get a good big cam and have fun

I don’t understand the cam oiling issue ? You should be able to re-grind the cam that was in it .

Appreciate any insight

I called , but they are out of the shop until the end of the month

Anyone with recommendations where or who to send bumpers to for restore . Customer has a very clean set that are super straight with just mild surface rust . This will be expensive either way , so I want it done right . Like to hear actual customer reviews if possible . thanks

Pics?

How’s my header coming along !!!!!

So you have valve timing marks that show excessive slack. You have a poor running motor . Now you have valve train noise . Time to pull the timing cover

Art and function done well . I still admire your skills . It’s hard to watch without being envious of your meticulousness . Fortunately I have a friend with a mill that can make me precision , because I’m more the ‘get er done’ guy .

I believe this was mentioned by someone else in this thread . I decided not to use their supplied nut for that reason of seizing

The timing curve is not going to adversely affect his troubleshooting

Very similar but has square exhausts instead our U.S.A. round ports

It would be nice to swap out with a known good dizzy . Maybe the shop fried your ignition when they installed it . Did it run okay after they put the Pertroni in?

Not enough history here . Did this motor ever run right ? Did this happen only after the carb work ?

Need more background info . Did you rebuild the engine ? Did it run right previously?

Ignore the bright link . That dizzy spline should be at 11:25 o’clock . Looks like yours is at 12 noon .

I don’t know guys - looks like that dizzy drive shaft is off a tooth if that’s TDC .