madkaw

Hey Cliff , if you have any pics of those tangs or maybe sketch out the shape of your tangs that worked . I’ve been at for days now and actually bought another set of SU’s so I had more floats to choose from . I got the front one nailed , but it’s seems whatever I do to the rear one comes up short .

So today I went for a pleasant 90 mile trip to meet with a fellow Z'er who had a crucial part for me . He said he found an extra float for a SU in his Weber stuff. Believing that the float was the issue I was happy to find one and try it out. So I noticed that the tang was longer on the replacement . I also noticed how flat the tang was compared to mine that was bent straight up it seems. I set it using the 'blow thru the needle and seat method. When I put fuel to it the fuel level actually stop rising and didn't overflow. It was too low so I proceeded to tweek it . And wouldn't you know it overflowed -SH!T So I made another adjustment . Long story short I come to realize that if I empty the bowl by completely draining it( usually when I remove the float sync tool) , the needle and seat had a harder time stopping the fuel then when there was fuel left in . I can only presume that the fast filling empty bowl made it harder for the valve to stop the incoming fuel. So I started making float changes by just removing the lid and leaving the float sync tool in place . I was able to get pretty close to the 23mm from the top of the lid. When I moved on to the front carb I saw another mangled float tang -ugh. To be continued

I've done a lot of playing around with timing since I have a programmable ecu. You should have most of your advance in by 3000rpm, but sometimes you might have to drag out the last few degrees beyond there. You can run quite a bit of vacuum advance especially when you can control it with this 123 ignition. I run 45 degrees of advance on my stroker in high vacuum/low KPA areas .

Probably the lack of use is the biggest culprit. Valve probably hung up and the rocker went off the rail. Worst thing you can do to these engines is to NOT use them. Just starting them up now and then is not enough. I'd put it back on and go thrash on it down a back road .

You can only manage 28 degrees total ? That seems quite low even for 10:1 and 92 octane . Serious amount of power left on the table .

Thank you for the link . I should have known that there would be an extensive discussion here on this site ! The idea of a float that is hitting the wall had come across my little brain while dicking with this . The float metal structure actually looks bent to one side . Maybe I will swap floats from front to back and see what happens . I don’t think I have any spares .

Hey guys , I guess I’ve been away from carbs too long and now I can’t work on them . A customers car that hasn’t really run yet since rebuild . Trying to set my float levels and using a float sync tool to help assist . The problem I’m having is that I have one carb that wants to be ole faithful . Even if I adjust it for a low fuel level it will eventually overfill. I am using a Holley Black fuel pump that is rated for 4-7 psi . I also installed a Mr Gasket inline fuel pressure regulator set at 2psi . I had an extra needle and seat laying around and swapped it out , no difference . The carbs were lightly rebuilt with new needle and seats from Z Therapy . Not sure what to try next. The front carb seems to be doing fine and holding a certain level. I was considering swapping parts from front to back and see if the problem follows . Any thoughts ?

Bizarre for sure . Laser temp gun to verify readings . Not sure what to suggest other than replacing the sender sensor to start

They won’t take calls - which sucks . They are usually good with replying to emails

Nice set up. The n42 pair is not my favorite for modification . I would definitely want flat tops for the block - but that’s all the mods needed there . The head is going to be a lot more work . The best solution to keep down time to a minimum is to have another head rebuilt and ready to go . I would source a higher quench head - p90, p79, mn47 . They will do better with pump gas . Or maybe just find a zx motor and use the block and head . As far as the cam - going big or go home .

All those heads should be drilled for carbs . N42 is your best bet for dished pistons .

View Advert 1970 fuel tank I had this extra tank that I decided to move along . I painted and sealed the inside of the tank . You can see by the pics that it was very clean inside even before I started . I used Por-15 tank sealer per their instructions. For some reason I had some bubbles pop up on the bottom of the tank . I contacted the reps for Por-15 and they acknowledged that this happens some time , but no worries on the integrity of the sealer . I painted the tank outside with SEM trim paint . It has newer Nissan sender and new drain plug . Asking 300$ Shipping will be thru FedEx and I will only charge actual shipping cost . Advertiser madkaw Date 06/22/2022 Price $300 Category Parts for Sale

Stock r180 with a Rebello power and one weak point and bang . I’m with everyone here about checking diff . Try the Subi diff swap - it makes for a tougher r180

Well back to the shop with it

The drain stops when I pull the T plug . I can make the regulator click by removing and installing the T plug .

I thought about ditching this older style with an internally regulated style - but his electrical needs were so low . what’s the chance of having two bad regulators - that’s what’s weird . I don’t have a FSM . Maybe see if my Hanes has any info .

I have a .5A draw. Pulled all fuses one at a time Alternator and starter have been professionally rebuilt . Replaced voltage regulator which I thought was the issue . It clicks when connecting the battery cable . Old one and the new one . It also gets warm . 2 bad regulators ? When I pull the field plug it quits So my white 12v from the starter is intact . I have 12v at the plug for the regulator ( solid white ) I have continuity from the WB at the regulator to the WB at the field plug . That makes me think the regulator is not supplying the 12v at the plug .

And it’s not the only Jeep part on my car - lol

I do have a Datsun soul . It does work well and glad to see people using it

Well I have answers and have to fess up of a mistake . The yoke sent to me was only 24 splines but skips teeth at 180 degrees . They call that a 26 spline I guess . I didn’t at the time check the actual measurement of the yoke and ASSumed it wouldn’t be right , but it is . So the 83 turbo - regardless of manual or automatic have a larger output shaft with 26 splines . I had no clue .

Thanks again . I know the block is a great ground , so I am over thinking things . I’ve cleaned all the grounds everywhere on the chassis .

I’m building a little 1972 resto mod for someone. He wants to keep it automatic . I did some searching and realized the 83 turbo automatics had a lock up torque converter - badly needed really . I acquired one and on install DS from the 72 wouldn’t fit ( 24 spline -24mm) . The 83 zxt( at least this one) has a 26 spline output -26mm OD. I sold my last t5 DS and it had the oddball yoke - I believe is 26 spline . I’ve talked to many people that automatics and no one has one with a 24 spline output . Ordered a new yoke from Z Car Depot that they said had 26 spline . Came today and it was 24 spline 😡 I know autos are spoken about much , but maybe someone knows something

Awesome @SteveJ explanation . More stuff to delete ! The diagram you picked is correct for my 123. The blue wire is about two feet long . I was hoping one of these wires I don’t need anymore was a good chassis ground . I’d like to get as close to the battery as possible . I figure a good ground is essential . Too bad my harness is all taped up and pretty . I just didn’t want to take anything out that broke the circuit of the inhibitor or somehow alter the operation on the automatic .

There’s a thermal relay that the RB wires runs thru . There’s also a thermal switch in there somewhere . Not sure what their function is . So you think I don’t need to connect the RB to the coil - like in the original wiring ?

I thought the fit was quite snug - but I’ll look at it again