madkaw

The MC seals are all oriented the correct way. The Nissan unit matches up with the aftermarket fine - see pic . So I reached out to Classic Tube since it seems their kit doesn’t have the correct line routing MC to warning switch correctly . They show 3 kits by year . The first kit supposedly goes from 1969- 6/72 . The second kit goes from 6/72 until the 280z?. Am I wrong that the earliest BMC had front and rear oriented differently and thus had the lines routed differently to the warning switch? If so - when did the MC change ? Classic tube wants to get this right also .

Round

That IS the issue . It seems that EPDM O-rings are what’s best for brake fluid . Then you need the exact size . I believe the seal need to be 6x10x2

You are correct - I should use the proper name .

Not a very good pic but you might be able to make out the busted O rings on the piston . I’ve ordered some O rings . I will “ rebuild “ the prop valve and reinstall the MC with the lines routed properly

Well I guess I have my lines crossed . I replace the originals with SS - but the replacement lines were routed the same way as the originals . I contacted my Datsun part expert and shared a pic that helps . The F&R lettering on the BMC didn’t seem to correlate with the plumbing of the proportioning valve . Still not sure that would cause the transfer of fluids though

There is a transfer of fluid happening between reservoirs so it is overfilling - that’s the issue

1972 with all new brakes . Master cylinder is a NABCO , or whatever is being sold by Nissan - but made in Japan . I am losing fluid but in a strange way . After a long period of driving I check the MC and the front reservoir is low while the rear is full to the top . I have brake fluid oozing out somewhere from the rear reservoir . Not sure if it is somehow getting pressurized and coming out the bottom or what . I’ll have wetness around the band clamp and around the MC body . The band clamps are tight . This is driving me nuts . I’ve never read of this situation . The front brakes are upgrade with the S12 calipers .

Another reason to get to HB ! Lol

Another job that I utilize the dead blow is valve adjustments. I probably should make a video now because folks will be wondering . Lol

Yes- please folks -invest in a good dead blow hammer. It’s great for such jobs as this . A 3lb dead blow is a useful tool and save your hands . Curious is why you didn’t just drop the car on cylinder blocks to weight it? It’s tight , but you can slide under there if all you are doing is smacking them tight . Just asking - thanks for the video Merry Christmas

I’ve been working on a 2/72 and the owner wanted to keep it original . I was getting a battery drain . The VR looked new. When I plugged it in it would click and cause a drain . Ordered another one and it did the same thing . So now I think it’s the alternator. Took it to an alternator shop and he said it was fine . He also said he had an issue finding a good VR - period . He could a box of them and they would all test bad . I got rid of the VR

Yes - I just went and looked . Only two screws at the top of the frame . Wondered if folks were glueing them in - in order to facilitate a seal .

Curious if these can be made to work on the early models ? I saw another sale ad that said they would . These were meant to deal with wind noise I imagine ? I’ve seen ads for the bottom front seals for the quarter window , but not the top . https://www.datsun-garage.com/collections/datsun-240z-260z-280z-s30-weatherstrip/products/reproduction-front-quarter-window-weatherstrip-1974-78-260z-280z

This basically how I did mine - thanks Cliff. I think the speed bump tang is important . Floats seem more consistent .

My 9/71 has vertical lines

Working on a customers automatic 72 . Engine is modified L28 with close to 200 rwhp . New territory for me as far as trans . Trying to protect the engine and drivetrain from an inadvertent shift to neutral while the engine is spooled up . Decided to try some gate mods on the shifter . It seems to work excellent on the bench , but haven’t tested yet . These trans will shift out of first regardless whether the shifter is still in 1st . Selecting second gear the trans will stay there —until you blow the engine up or shift. This trans( 83zxt) has had the valve body modified , so not sure what shift points are under WOT . Need more test and tune ! I have the engine protected with a rev limiter , but don’t want to shock the drivetrain by an accidental slide in neutral. Made a vid IMG_6098.MOV IMG_6098.MOV

I paid for the VR kit . 3X the price of a precision kit . Didn’t notice anything much different in the door seals . My advice for doors is do the Kia seals or try and find a copy of theIr seal .

Most important part is the ground done correctly

I worked on an early 71 that had the original 4 speed - A . The shifter was terrible and that’s what I learned what monkey motion meant - lol. Anyhow - I don’t even remember how I made the connection with Lou Mondello in Australia that had a make potion for the A trans shifter . I ended up sending the tail section down under to get reworked . It took time and money - but boy was it worth it . The owner texted me - OMG- YES ! It transformed that A trans . The shifter was great and made for fun shifting regardless that it was just a 4 speed .

I stand by my statement 🙂

Well I did get another lid and have both short ears on there . I have my float sync tool and messed with float levels forever . I come up short- no matter what I try to get the correct height . I said time to try it . It seems the engine want at least 4 turns out to be happy . That also varies from start to start . I need to check the incoming fuel pressure to make sure it’s adequate or maybe too much . I do have my wideband working so I am shooting for about 13.5 at idle . . Did I say I hate carbs :-0

Just got off the phone with my car friend and PHD physics guy. His thought was as long as you had a reasonable amount of fuel in the float bowl, the Venturi will pull the fuel pass the jet fine . It’s more critical that the jet and needle are the same on both carbs than it is to get max amount of fuel in the bowl . I like the idea of the floats being more level , but it doesn’t add any more fuel to the bowl ( volume ) . I think getting the float needle to sit in the float tang properly is important too - especially with these flat tipped float needles

Very interesting read and right on target for I’m dealing with . I’m a little intimidated to boring holes in my SU’s , but might have to do that . I’m building a high performance engine for a customer and I can’t get the floats to comply . I’ve been at for days - literally . My floats are slammed against the lid to get proper level using a float sync. I can’t afford for this engine to go lean . Instead of a fancy slug I was thinking a coarse screw into the side of the float . Maybe a brass vs an aluminum would give me options as far as weight - even steel . Any thoughts on this approach ? I am using two short lids hoping I could duplicate my approach easier

Well it’s not my car or I would consider that option