madkaw

Might want to check how close those dings are to the fire ring on the HG - they look close

For a split second on start up . I had been welding dirty steel on my work bench and the head was also on the bench . One of those molten BB’s must have danced right into the port opening . Some more had burned themselves into the side of the port that I found later . That’s how I figured out what happened . It did take a while if scratching my head . What made it more strange was I had a rod bearing go on that engine . They issues were not related

If those are original seats I wouldn’t skip that step . I doubt they are steel . You’ll really have some dings if one of those let loose .

So was this head worked previously ? Are those steel seats ?

Here’s a pic of known FOD . This was done by a small bee bee of weld that found its way in the intake and got sucked in the engine - it’s a long story . That head is still in use on my 3.2 stroker Are you going to do anything to the head ? New seats , bigger exhaust valve, unshroud the valve areas.

That’s a crap shoot . Not sure if you’ll pass smog because that will probably change the way it runs . And be ready for a fight . One might have fell out , but I bet the others won’t 🙂 .

When I go to that link it shows the fenders being 400$

View Advert 280zxt 5 speed T5 transmission Looking for the T5 transmission used in the 82-82 ZXT models . This is the BorgWarner T5 transmission. PM me or email sfinnerty1018@gmail.com Advertiser madkaw Date 05/08/2023 Price $100 Category Parts Wanted Year 1982 Model 280ZXT

I believe they are hyper black . They have colors that are close to each other . I believe mine are hyper black . But when I ordered new caps in hyper black they looked darker . So maybe I’m no help - lol

Took the tires to get balanced . They said 3 of 4 wheels were not running true - bent .

Well this is a timely thread . Just had a customers car come back for an electric power steering install . Drove it 30 miles on the highway and the wheel shake was terrible. I think I replaced most of the suspension parts up front . I still have things to check , but it has the original steelies with newer 14” tires . My money is the wheels and tires . I’m going to swap the wheels on my car to his and see how that goes and go from there

Not apparent because you couldn’t tell from what direction ? Was it coming from the rear hatch area ? Have you sealed that hatch panel ? It can be tough to tell . Usually if you don’t see it right away it will make it hard to determine exactly where it comes from

Go buy a fog machine . I think I made a thread about this . Get your shop vac and tape seal around a window that is cracked open . Turn on the machine and get in the car with a flashlight . I suspect it the panel on the hatch . That vinyl panel needs to sealed with RTV is something . The low pressure will pull fumes through your hatch latch and around that panel . If you have had that panel off I bet that’s the source . The fog machine will tell all And I’ve been driving around in a Z with a Z story exhaust - it’s not the exhaust system

I’m running 350z seats in my car . I couldn’t do the stock seats for my back . I think they would fit about anyone . I’m almost 6’2 but very thin . Bolstering is more than a stock seat . Adaptation of seat rails is required

Not sure what advantage the MSD would be with the 123 - seems redundant . I wouldn’t waste time on porting the intake . There’s very little to port and the runners can handle 230hp as is 🙂 Advancing the cam can be done at anytime . I’d spring for a Kameari adjustable while the US dollar is strong . It makes adjustments so easy . Advancing can bump compression which will help torque .

The 123 ignition could help with performance and to help pass emissions - IMHO . A fully programmable ignition curve would allow a more aggressive power curve without giving too much vacuum advance . Your engine/ head combo is not the greatest for performance . Added compression would make a stronger case for adding a programmable dizzy . Cheap way to add a little power is to advance the cam to hole 2 or 3 . This would add noticeable power/ torque down low . Once again this would be better if you had full control of ignition . A cam and programmable ignition would be best bang for buck

Can you guys get away with a 123 dizzy ?

I don’t know guys - I’m not going to try and figure out Nissans engineering , but the larger capacity of the piston assembly in the BMC needs to go to the front brakes . My intention now is to get Classic Tube the correct info for when folks order lines . I made them aware that the early BMC’s are not readily available and most would be going to a later BMC - which means they need different lines than what’s in the early kit .

Why do I think F goes to the front lines ?

Whatever is done the F of the MC should go to the front brake lines- and R should go to the rear lines - regardless of the reservoir size .

Yeah I hate tuning my stroker with a laptop - it’s so boring

More than likely they should both be n54

Okay- I got the word from my parts expert . This probably old news or non-news but I’ve just ran into this and was having difficult time finding the correct info 240z 69-8/71 used first series of BMC - E4602 plumbed F-R 8/71 - 6/72 uses the E 8702 series BMC - it is plumbed R-F 7/72-7/73 also uses the W8702 but the safety switch is moved so it’s plumbed a lot different . If anyone has contrary info I’d be glad to hear. If not I am going to notify Classic Tube

If the larger reservoir is up front then more than likely the front brakes worked off of that side. So the lines to the warning switch would have to run differently - correct . The early lines stayed separated where as the later the lines cross - because the warning switch stayed the same ?