madkaw

I don't think anyone will have the same exact set-up as you so no one will be able to tell you exactly. I would think the machinist would measure the chambers and tell you how much he needs to take off. On my e-88 I put the bigger valves in and unshrouded my combustion chamber and milled .012 off and also took off .010 off the block to clean it up. The machinist c.c.'d the chambers at 41.5 cc which are smaller then the e31 head, but I also notched my block for the bigger valves so my C.R. was figured at 9.55. So for someone to tell you exactly would be tuff.

Then there is titled 71 models that are built late in the year like my 9/71 that have some of the "upgrades" like the curved bar for the easy r200 swap but doesn't have the pockets in the floor for the retractable seat belts. Wether or not i have the better trans "71b" or not is inmaterial because i am putting the BW 5 speed in. I know mine is the best year because it's the one i own !!

It must be the whole service oriented industry or just business folks in Indianapolis .I dropped my motor off to a guy on Gasoline Alley for a rebuild. I told him that I wasn't in a hurry since I was doing a restoration. That was probably my first mistake . I didn't put that much pressure on him because honestly I wasn't ready for the motor. Well to make a lllooonnnnggg story shorter , he had my engine for 2 years. In his defense , this was more then a rebuild,especially the head. And I think the Datsun head was new territory for him also. He also cut 400$ off the price of the final bill for the head for making me wait so long ,which was great since I wasn't needing the engine just yet. So patience paid off for me.Now I have to wait on the powder coater, but once again, this guy is very reasonable especially if your not in a hurry. i think it's best to just plan on any service with this hobby is going to take twice as long. Carl, I think that was me about the body shop in Indy. Diamond collision, they were reasonably on time.

Unfortunetly almost every project I tackle around the house or on the car is plagued with WIAT. Typical explanations are; 1.I will want to do that eventually anyway 2.It will need to done soon anyway 3. What's another hundred bucks 4. That old part doesn't look right next to that refurbished part 5. it would be safer My car only needed a good valve job to keep it on the road but it looks like this now

Pushrod does sound logical but how are the brake lines,the rubber ones?Have they been replaced? I have seen old brake hoses that have broke down inside and act as a check valve and not allow fluid in one direction and restrict flow in another. Sound like what's going on is, either by the pushrod being out of adjustment and no where for the fluid to return, or somewhere else fluid is being restricted.

I had this same thing happen on a 69 mustang I was fixing up. I put all new parts on the brakes, calipers,master cylinder,proportioning valve. I must of went thru a gallon of brake fluid trying to get it bled. I finally tried reverse bleeding which actually worked. I removed the front caliper, this was the passenger side front, and put a block of wood in the caliper to duplicate the rotor but allows greater movement of the puck. I pushed the brake pedal so the puck comes out. Then i removed the lid on the MC and slowly pushed the caliper puck in and I could see the tiny fine airbubbles coming to the top. Now my situation was different for the fact i was having problem getting firm pedal on the first push. But i wasn't getting a good squirt out of the front calipers when I bled them, so in that way it was similiar. I replaced my MC 3 times convinced that was the cause. I have done brake jobs for years and never had this situation ,but all it was was air in the lines. I wish you luck-I feel your pain brother

My wife and I bought Subaru's on our anniversary. She got the Forestor turbo and i got the Baja turbo. Both are great cars and as previously noted, stealthy quick. The Baja was the best compromise of truck and car I could find-leaning more towards car handling. I love my Baja, it is one of the few new cars I have owned but I think I will sell it because it is cutting into my Z funds badly.

i wonder what size wheels and tires they are??. I'm thinking 205's, because I don't want to make that mistake with zg's if i go that route. I'd love to see 8 inch rims and 225's or 245's with the flares to see how it fills the gaurds. I believe both Gav and Toecutter have good looking cars (with the stripes) so that's why I don't mind what this guy did with his car.

I guess i don't see what's so bad with the car. As far as personalizing a vehicle, this car is mild and not overboard by any means.I would have done things a little different but the car looks pretty good. I would rather see more tire and less wheel, and the zg flares aren't put on exactly right, but no mistaken that it's a Z.

Gav, bought the same valves on e-bay,good quality by the way. The problem on my e-88 was that exhaust is way big. Granted i am only using a 2.4, the valve was huge and I believe your talking lots of work to put that in. I had the valve cut down to 35mm since that is oversize for a 2.4. You don't realize how oversize it is until you see it in the combustion chamber, that 3mm is almost 1/8 inch. good luck

I got my polisher free from the father in law, an old washing mashine motor. It has done well for my needs and I also use the old die grinder for smaller areas. But like it's been said before , it's all in the prep work

Well now I can't even find anyone who sells just the rubber squeegy. I thought that Too Intense used to carry them but I can't find them now. Anyone know of any??

Has anyone tried to replace the rubber squeegy on the exterior window ss trim on an s30 door. I've seen that you can just buy the rubber instead of the whole trim piece but have never heard of any success stories of installing new rubber. I am curious as to how the staples are used or reused to put the new squeegy on. I want to powder coat the ss trim black and need to remove the squeegy. I don't want to screw up a new 150$ set if I can repair the old .

That pic reminds me of the 82zxt that was crunched that I had towed home.The guy at the salvage yard wouldn't part the trans so I bought the whole car. My wife about sh** when the tow truck pulled upLOL . She couldn't imagine what I could use a totalled car for. She understood after she seen what I could get for the stuff on ebay besides my transmission. I'd do it again if i could find another.Have fun Arne!

Just had my head rebuilt and had the same exact circumstances. The valve would stick open and dislodge the rocker. When the machinist started removing seats, two of them basically fell out and the motor only had 100k original.

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/borg.html try this out if you haven't already. This is the info I am going to use if i ever get my engine back from the machine shop.

i tried the plastic booth idea in my garage and it sucked. I think it caused more dust from the static from the plastic. I had better luck scrubbing my garage surgically clean and covering the stuff from overspray. I had a lot less dirt or dust in my paint without the plastic. good luck

I hope all you guys who get the sport max wheels do the right thing and POST A LOT OF PICS:D I hope someone goes for the 245's so we know how they fit. I'm really waiting to see if anyone will run raised white letters-if they are even available-I think in certain combos they would look good. I haven't seen a wheel I like more then these sport max so hope to see them on a lot of different Z's.