Bambikiller240

More grief than St. Stephen has on his plate? Just like the "permanent" arrangements, ya gotta be selective. The lower the rental fee, the more risk you take.

Sorry, I cannot explain it, it just does. Just like a dirty battery cable terminal can cause a no start condition, but you clean it and all is well.

Not being an Electrical wiz so I can only give basic suggestions. Step one, clean ALL the connectors on that circuit (EVERY ONE OF THEM). Corrosion leads to poor connections which result in high current draws to complete the circuit. Victor, or anyone else jump in, as we're reaching the limits of my electrical knowledge fast!

These are a few of my favorite questions: Which circuit is getting hot? Have there been additional power demands added to that circuit (like H4 headlights, or a huge Stereo AMP, or ??) Does it get hot only under certain conditions, or is it hot all the time? [/list=1]

How does it work for " Sum Yung Gai" ( a popular faire in San Francisco)

No Idea, they are different from what we were talking about.

You have assembled something wrong. The clips that hold the cap on HAVE to be in only one place, at "about" 2 oClock and 8 oClock, since the dist can only bolt on two ways. One is correct, the other way is 180 degrees WRONG. Either way, the clips will be at "about" 2 and 8. Do you have a digital camera to post pictures with? I will have to "assume" that you have the distributor installed on the timing cover correct. It sounds like you have the Distributor drive shaft installed one or two teeth off from where they should be. Look in that Chilton manual for a picture of what the Dist Driveshaft is supposed to look like when installed correctly. You'll have to remove the dsistributor to compare what you have to what the picture shows. If you can't get a FSM reight away, try to find a Haynes Manual at a parts store. They are good too, but you still need a FSM if you are going to do serious work on your car.

So, Where is it in relation to a clock ?

Yep, but every now and then they make the prospect of trying live without them seem like a viable option. PS, You can always "RENT" one if you find that you REALLY "NEED" one. More fun, Less Hassles. What a concept! PS: Sorry to hear the bad news St. Stephen

From your most recent description, YES, This is Wrong. Stand at the driver side fender (your right leg should be next to the driver side tire), with the coil right in front of you(looking straight down). The distributor has two clips that hold the cap in place. The #1 terminal on the cap is the FIRST wire to the "LEFT of the clip" that is on YOUR LEFT. This should be at approximately 8 oclock. Anything else is WRONG.

Yeah, when "Barum & Bailey and Ringling Bros." come to town once a year! Usually has a bunch of people with big noses in it.

Your post said you were looking FROM THE FRONT and it was at 8 oclock. That, would make the rotor in the wrong place. FSM available on CD from Courtesy Nissan

If you mean the wire clamps that hold the plastic reservoirs onto the M/C itself, the answer is NO.

PERTRONIX WEBSITE Hey Chuck: Do you work for Ron Popiel? "set it and forget it! "

Chloe at www.midwestz.com may be able to beat their price, but here you go : MSA SITE

Looking from the drivers side of the car, the #1 position on the distributor is at 8:00. If the rotor is poointing anywhere else (and it certainly sounds like it is) SOMETHING is wrong. Step one is to make sure that the timeing marker on the front cover is pointing to the deepest notch on the crankshaft pulley., and make sure the two cam lobes for the #1 cylinder are pointing UP, then look at the distributor. The Rotor should be pointing at 8:00. That is the way it SHOULD be. Get that manual!!!

Rick, I gather that "she who must be obeyed" was not looking over your shoulder when you typed that statement. Rick? Are you still there? Rick? Hello, Rick? Anybody seen Rick lately? Gulp, maybe she was looking on when it was typed!

Sounds like you have the spark plug wiring wrong. #1 spark plug position is at 8PM on my distributor. May also have the distributor driveshaft installed off by a tooth. I agree with the person who reccomended that you get a FACTORY Service manual. Chiltons (I think you said that's what you have) is not a very good manual for these cars.

Chloe at www.midwestz.com should be able to get them for you. If not, MSA in LA used to have them, & may still have them.

Unless something has changed on the Pertronix website in the last two months, I think you will find that they do not make a Pertronix II kit for the L6 Nissan engine. I'm completely happy with my regular Pertronix, though if they do end up offering the "II" model for an L6 I will consider purchasing it.

In my neighborhood, a car with a fuel vent to atmosphere would end up as a bonfire in short order. Not doubting what you are saying, but it seems a :stupid: design IMHO. Though I don't like the vent system we have, I'm glad that Nissan got their S**T together somewhat. Too many hooligans and Foolio's around here would siphon your tank dry if they didn't want to watch your car go up in flames.

1971 US Models of 240Z had an arrow on the timing case, and several notches on the crank dampner/pulley. The deepest notch (first one on your left when standing in FRONT of the engine) is ZERO, next is 5 degrees before TDC, next is 10 BTDC, etc.

Yup!

Yup! As sanitary as the rest of the car appears, that sure stood out for me as a glaring mistake in judgement by whomever designed and "executed" (dare I say) the modifications.

Some of the racers use Autometer guages. Sorry I don't have a link, but try a web search on Google or another search engine.