Bambikiller240

Hi: Sounds like the Switch could be shot. Might want to also check the continuity from end to end of the ballast resistor before you go ordering parts (it's in the engine bay, below the coil), as it can cause this too. Easy to check with an ohm-meter. The Ign. switch can be attacked easier if you remove the whole Ignition Lock/Switch assembly from the car. I drilled small holes in the heads of the funky screws that hold it in. (they don't have a slot or phillips cross) Used an EZ Out to remove them, then I used different "normal" screws to re-install. This doesn't save any time the first time you do it, but at least you're working upright and not upside down. Next time you need to remove the assembly, it's a breeze to pull. Just a thought Good Luck

I see what you are saying about the outer surface of the bushings being "locked" to the body by the locating brackets. I have a new pair OEM inner bushings in my hand (P/N 55555-E4100) and I see that the inner metal sleeve has "teeth" at each end which would work in conjuction with the large washer and cap bolts to lock them down as you describe, since the sleeve and the rubber of the bushing are built as one unit. But, with PU bushings, I'm not so sure about the large cap bolts "locking" the inner metal surface, thus limiting movement to any great degree. I don't recall the metal sleeves (which come in the kit as separate pieces *loose* from the bushings per se) having these "teeth" (they had smooth ends AIR). So, with the inner metal sleeve not being solidly attached to the actual PU bushing material, I don't *believe* that the PU bushings are in shear. I usually don't work on my Rear Suspension this way, but there was an occasion when I needed to change strut cartridges quickly, and I was able to simply undo the 3 bolts at the top of the strut assembly and pull the whole strut assembly down and out of the wheel well, so it didn't seem to me that movement at the inner bushing was limited "very much". (of course, I disconnected the half shaft, the brake line and E-brake cable as well ) The suspension didn't just "fall" down, but I was able to pull it down, and out without too much effort as I recall. Interesting discussion though. I hope someone else will jump in here who can shed more light, confirm or not, what is actually going on there. If the PU are in shear, I understand your concern and acknowledge it's validity, as PU will certainly have less capacity to deform. It's that lesser capacity to deform that makes the handling feel more positive than as delivered from Nissan.

I would say that this blue wire cannot be the cause of the problem on your car unless there is another loose wire somewhere nearby that is not shown in your picture. It "could" have been a "repair" to route power around a damaged section of the OEM (stock) wiring loom, but if so, you should be able to see another "loose wire" within the reach of that wire. Lay on your back in the footwell and look up in there with a flashlight and see if there is another wire hanging loose. If there is, it "should" be fairly obvious, since whoever installed this one didn't bother to try to hide it. That blue wire is NOT part of the "stock" wiring that came in the car as manufactured by Nissan. Someone (previous owner?) spliced it in for "some" reason. Is there 12v at that wire under any circumstances? Ignition switch in "OFF", or "ACC" or "ON"? It "could" have been used to bring to bring power to some "added-on" device like a CB radio, or aftermarket fog or driving lights, or something else that has since been removed. That would be my guess. In any event, I would either remove it or cover that "bare wire" end of that blue wire to insulate it so there is no possibility of it shorting out and causing more problems for you. It's not doing anything any good just hanging there. I would expect that your car's problem lies in some device (component) in the ignition system. The switch on the back of the ignition lock, the ballast resistor, or wiring to the alternator would be places that I'd be looking at for possible cause of the problem that your car is exhibiting. 1. Use an Ohm meter to check for continuity from one end of the ballast resistor to the other end. 2. Carefully examine the wiring and connectors at the back of the alternator and at the voltage regulator to see if it looks like someone as been altering the "stock" wiring. If you cannot tell on your own, post more pictures of those areas and folks here who know what it should look like can tell you. It is possible that someone modified the car to use a later style alternator and did not do so properly. (left out a necessary diode) 3. Borrow an "ignition switch" (on back of the Ignition lock assy) if you can, or bite the bullet and buy one and swap it in. Last time I checked they weren't too expensive ($20 or so) Check it out and get back to us.

I'll add my best wishes for success in your new career path. Nice to see a man doing something to improve himself. All the Best! Carl

They may have the spring tester (dealers usually don't, but ya never know), but it's gonna cost some significant bucks to have the springs removed from the car just for the test.

Can anyone tell us where poly or aluminum spacers for this application can be obtained? (I have a 240Z)

Hi Richard: Please tell me about the OEM bushings being in shear. My understanding (which COULD be wrong, as I'm not perfect) is that they are not in shear. Can you educate me? Does anyone else have input here?

Naw, you got me confused with someone else. I'm VERY 240Z/early 260Z oriented. Never worked on a fuel injected Z or ZX, and have only driven one, once. If I were hazard a guess, I'd say he MIGHT have to match the AFM to the computer controlling the system (probably model year specific in the US) but that's just a Wild arse Guess.

You might try PM'ing ZmeFly as he currently owns a ZX and may be able to guide you on this. Sorry to be of so little help, but I've never owned or worked on a ZX, or any fuel injected Z car.

Did you stick a block of wood down the Timing case in between the loop of chain to keep the tensioner located properly? If not you will be removing the Timing cover to get it back together. If you DID manage to keep the tensioner where it belongs, the gear *should* be able to be put back on the nose of the cam. It can be tough as there is meant to be VERY little slack in the chain, for obvious reasons. Let us know a bit more of how you have disassembled this part of your engine. Were you following the information in a shop manual, or flying blind when you did this?

Good to hear that your car is running as it should. Seems like Zedrally and sjcurtis were the doctors who nailed the diagnosis. Enjoy the Ride!

An easy error to make as it was't on the screen for very long, and as you stated it was a night scene. :classic:

One more thing for you to check before spending money is to see if the choke nozzles at the bottom of your carburetors are sticking open (pulled down) and not releasing (back to the closed "up" position) when you release the choke lever. You'll find it easier to check this if you remove the entire air cleaner including the base plate. It sounds like your front carb is running richer. It could be drowning the front 3 cylinders in fuel due to a stuck float or the choke nozzle stuck open. Just a few things to check. Good Luck.

Well now, if you will remember, the Fast Times at Ridgemont High movie was released to Theaters in 1982 which means it was probably filmed in 1981 or very early 1982. The last time I checked, the 300ZX didn't come out until 1984. I rest my case.

Err, Gosh $460 for the MSA Aluminum Rad. Choke, Gag!!!:sick: See Arizona Z Car for a Aluminum Cross-Flow Radiator for $359. Still not cheap, but......$100 bucks less is $100 bucks in my pocket! I would imagine that Virgina Beach IS more humid than my area of Califiornia, but we get up over 100 degrees in the summer 20 to 30 days a year on average.

Hi Richard: I don't believe that the inner A-arm bushings rotate. They slide onto (over) the threaded part of the A-Arm inner pivot point (sorry if I'm not clear here on the name) and then are clamped by the U-shaped brackets. The A-arm tube rotates within the bushing, and it is the rubbing of the two surfaces that make the squeek. As for the Anti-sway bar mount bushings, the bar rotates within the bushing which is held stationary in the same way as described above. Same squeek is possible there. This is the way I understand it to be. Now I'm not Einstein, so if you have differing idea of how it works, jump in and tell me (us) as I (we) are all open to learning new stuff. Maybe we should ask www.ground-control.com or another company that specializes in suspension about this. Too bad you don't have a digital camera (I don't have one either:() as I'd love to see these suspension arms you designed and had made up. I saw some at the MSA West Coast Nationals and they were really neat. For Optimum handling and adjustability they are certainly the way to go. To reiterate, there isn't anything "wrong" with OEM rubber bushings (unless they are 30 years old and trashed). The PU bushing are a very popular replacement item in the US for folks who want a bit more positive feel to the handling, but can't go to solid suspension bearings (heim-joints, spherical bearings, Aluminum/Delrin Off-set bushings, etc) due to the conditions of our public roads.

Hi Naoshi: The two row radiators were just barely able to keep our engines cool in the summer here in Cailfornia, even when these 240Z's were new and the radiators were clean, and in excellent condition. I had my radiator re-cored with a 3 row core two years ago, and added a fan shroud this year. I was having a problem (only in stop and go traffic) with the engine temperature rising on warm summer days. (90 degrees F. and above) The shroud solved that problem nicely. AS 2manyZs suggested, with A/C - a 3 or 4 row radiator is your best bet. I don't know what a dealer would charge for an OEM radiator, but the 3 row re-core of my (originally 2 row radiator) cost me $225.00 and came with a 2 year warrentee from the shop that did the work. I just had it checked by the same shop when I installed my new (rebuilt) motor and it is still in excellent shape, so they extendeded the warrentee for another year at no cost to me. Now that's service.

In "Fast Times at Ridgemont High", Brad's sister Stacy goes on a date to"The Point" with a stereo salesman who drives a 280ZX.

Marty: Since the two cars have different tires (60 series and 70 series) I think you are still measuring (in part) the different tire sidewall heights. The only way that I can see to get a "real" comparison is to measure each car with the same tires/wheels.

They call it a "Z" because Nissan wants the public to perceive a link to the glory days of the past. Too bad they didn't create something to deliver the things that made the original "Z" the success that it was/is.

I could be wrong, but I thought he meant that he installed PU in the Tension Compression rods. (I did this also) The Aluminum/Delrin TC kit that I had on another Z was too harsh for driving on the street. (we have pot holes galore up here in the Bay area) PS to 260DET: I never said rubber bushings caused any problems, I simply maintain that with PU bushings you get more performance out of your suspension.

How much wine are you making? What variety of grapes? Do you buy grapes or grow your own? Do you sell the wine you make? Sorry, Inquiring minds want to know.

I think that is what concerned me most. As Keith pointed out in an earlier reply, the shorter strut had a longer length of piston sticking out, yet a shorter "strut body". That is what concerned me in regard to bottoming out. Longer Piston / Shorter Strut body doesn't make much sense to me if one expects similar range of motion. Margaritas. now that sounds like a great idea. Z Ya!

OK, guys. Thanks. I feel better now that it has been discussed a bit. Kinda wish I had a set them to play with and measure a bit. Remember, like my Mama always says, "Nobody sweats the details like Carl." :stupid:

Please don't hate me Steve. I didn't bring this up to wish you bad fortune or anything. In fact, I didn't bring it it from the beginning because I didn't want to rain on your parade. Since you seemed OK with what was going on. Finally, after holding it in all these weeks, I just HAD to ask the question. Sorry. It is just that I an ANAL about stuff. I was raised and schooled in mechanical stuff by guys whose mantras included, "The right tool/part for the right job." "Quality is Job #1". etc. Compromising was always frowned upon unless thoroughly researched and thought out. If you had to do a job over again because you didn't think things though, or made a dumb mistake one was considered a "wanker" until you redeemed yourself in someway.