Bambikiller240

Good Deal! Enjoy the Ride! PS On cold winter days (cold for N. CA that is. 40-50 degrees or less), my car still squeeks a bit though I believe that is due to me not getting grease EVERYWHERE that I should have. Since it's minor and not noticable with with the radio on........ I gladly live with it until the next "required" teardown.

texasz: I don't know about the size of the Quickor company, but they are currently not as big in the Z scene as they once were, which could explain the lack of product knowledge. The 7/8" rear bar that I have is not from Quickor, I got it from Mulholland (a company that is no longer in business) so I can't help on this front either. I'm sure there would be SOME difference in performance between a 7/8" and a 3/4" (6/8") rear bar, but I wouldn't expect it to be a huge difference. Probably only noticable to a VERY good driver. Ground Control (www.ground-control.com) lists a 3/4" rear bar and a 1" bar for $259 for the PAIR. (Also shows a picture of the rear bar kit that shows the bracket I mentioned to you earlier. Maybe you could email the picture to Quickor and they could tell you if that is what their kit looks like.) Eibach (www.eibach.com) seems to list a 1" front and 1" rear bar package, but shows no price or picture. P/N is 6305.140

"People on 'Ludes should not surf the Internet!" Seriously though, In reply to the author of the original post, "Please understand that we are "THE CLASSIC Z CAR CLUB" as in 1970 to 1978 240/260/280 Zcars. 99.9% of us do not and would not own a 91 300ZX. You will find VERY little help to any question about this car here. Not that we don't want to help you, but we can't help you because we don't own a car that is even remotely similar to the one you are asking questions about. SORRY. PS What are you looking at selling? Fuses, Oil Guages or the car?

Thanks for the reply Keith. Yeah, I think I remember that pic you refer to. I hope they work OK for Steve. Not that I was in the market for a pair of these struts, but I wouldn't be able convince myself to buy a "work around" product like this for my car. I'd have to find a brand that still provided the correct item. I have a place for Tokiko to stick that "peg-leg"! :devious:

Hey Victor, just wait until you hit 50 It doesn't get any better as time goes on. Carl "If I'd known that I was going last this long, I'd would have taken better care of myself!" :stupid:

I've been watching this thread for what seems like a month and I am amazed that no one has even mentioned a concern that these "peg-leg" Tokiko strut inserts were not designed for the Z car application that they are now being sold to be used on. Hopefully the ones currently being sold for Z's were originally used on a car with similar weight, etc as the Z car. BUT...... With the "body" of the strut (excluding the peg-leg) being 2" shorter than the original strut, isn't anyone concerned that this strut probably doesn't have as much "travel" (i.e. range of motion) as the originally spec'd strut cartridge. Especially when using short springs, I would be worried about bottoming out the strut and destroying it......and the handling of the car. Anyone have any thoughts on this??? Anyone? After all 2" is not a small difference.

You're short too tanny? After your post about bodybuilding with Arnold, I kinda visualized you as a big strapping guy like The Governator. signed, Randy Newman ()

I don't know if "TWM" actually has a name or is just TWM, but they are the company that ZTherapy purchases their air horns from. If I recall correctly, they are an English company. I've never heard of another company that imports these air horns, but I'd be really surprised if there aren't several places that cater to English or other sports cars that have their stuff. You might try to do a web search on TWM and see what comes up. Good Luck!

If your car is like the North American imported S30, you pull back on the TURN SIGNAL lever & the high beams come ON.............pull back again and the high beams go OFF Not exactly the way it is done on modern cars. OLD SCHOOL! :stupid: **EDIT: PS can I drive your car?**

A Stack of Phone books????????????

Thanks, Keith. I kinda thought that there would need to be an adapter as you describe. Carl

Yes, you could still mount a stock front bar with the modified mount. The only reason I mentioned it is that it will never be perfectly "stock" as in for a "concours" restoration. The mount is permanently altered. That's all. I LOVED my 1" Quickor front bar and 7/8" rear bar. The car had Bilstein Gas Struts as well, and cornered "flat as a pancake". Virtually no body roll at all.

What many folks do is to drill all the way through the frame rail from the bottom (right through the threads in the rail) all the way through the top of the rail, then you use LONG bolts that go all the way through the frame rail and secure the bolts with washers and nuts at the TOP side of the frame rail. That way the sway bar brackets are secured to the entire frame rail instead of by just the lower wall of the rail. Once you've done this there is no way to go back to the original method of mounting the brackets cause the thread s are gone.

Call an appraiser for a definative figure. From the looks of the car, it's worth much more than the average 240Z.

Whoa, didn't say that the front one is not reccomended, just that to ensure that your frame rails don't get ripped apart you need to modify the mounting. A 1" bar will do the same thing. I would not use anything larger that stock without modifying the mounts. Even a 1" bar is pretty stiff. Regarding the rear bar, YES the MSA bar is the kind that many folks don't like to use. The preferred type mounts to the brackets that Rear suspension is mounted to. (Flat metal brackets that hang down on either side of the diff.) The sway bars come with a bracket that replaces the stock ones. I believe that Suspension Techniques is one company that sells that type. I bought mine so long ago that I don't remember what brand it is.

2ManyZs: So does this short throw shifter just get stuck 1" further into the trans than the stock one or is the mounting point on the trans for the pivot moved in some way to account for the extra inch?

The one labled as front "looks" like an after-market one for a 240Z. As large diameter as it appears, I would modify the mounts as bars this big tend to wreck havoc with the front frame rails. These big bars transmit so much force to the frame rails that the rails eventually rip open. Not a good thing to have happen to your car! Not so sure about the rear one, though if it is for a 240Z, it is the type that some of us don't like to use because it would require drilling holes in the chassis to mount.

Usually when rear brakes are locked, it is because the Rear Wheel cylinder is buggered up (gummed up, or rusted up). My experience with rebuilt Master cylinders has been very poor. I quit buying them 20 years ago, now I only buy NEW when the need arises. I'd flush out the lines to the brakes with clean, fresh fluid, then bleed the system. Start by bleeding the master itself, the right rear, left rear, right front and left front.

The Cross member (actually called the Rear Motor mount, though it attaches the transmission to the body) on my 1972 240Z (mfg'd in 11/71) does not look anything like the Cross Member in your picture.

Only one post on your problem is necessary. If one of us can help we will. :beard:

Before ya go carving up a glovebox you might want to consider that replacement gloveboxes for 240Z's are no longer available. Once you've carved it up, you're stuck with it forever. Carl (NOT ON MY CAR) S.

If there wasn't a limit of one attachment per post, I'd have uploaded them to our (your) site. However it took long enough to copy the links as it is.

RATS! I was hoping that there WAS a product like that out there. It's a PITA to pull the wheel and crawl in the well for what should be a simple & quick job. Get some rest James, tomorrow is Monday :sick: :sick:

Drive a Zcar with them installed, and one with rubber bushings and you'll KNOW the difference in handling that they make. As for shear loads, it's the spindle pins and Inner Transverse link bolts that handle the shear. Just like the rubber bushings, there is no place for the bushings to "shear", since they are surrounded by steel. PS Everyone is welcome to their own opinion I'm not selling anything here, I'm relating personal experience gained over 28 years of owning, driving, modifying and maintaining 240Z's [/list=1]

The H4 headlights that I just installed on my car still require you to gain access from the rear (inside the wheel well) to change bulbs/headlight assemblies. All you can do from the front is AIM the headlight with the adjustment screws. Does anyone have a link to headlights where you can change the bulbs from the front, without going into the wheel well? If so, please post the link. Thanks