Gav240z

Yes but the crank key needed work from memory. I've seen one on ozdat.com advertised for $1200. I guess it's supply vs demand. When i contact stewart wilkins for mine he said he had sold the last one and was ordering more in because the first lot sold like hot cakes.

While on topic what are L24 rods worth to people?

Your in Australia yeah? Here they are worth a bit try ozdat.com, ebay and here I guess. I paid almost too much but probably a reasonable price for mine considering shipping costs and conversion from USD however I know where to get them at a better price nowadays. I think you could probably get $700-$1000 AUD.

ahahaha I love it, nice one. No wonder it looks right at home on the ZeeCAR

Is that Che Guevara in the fuel tank?

TRS do you mind listing what your engine mods are? I'm getting my Triple 44 Mikuni's this week can't wait

Hi mate who is your agent and is the price of $2500 for them landed to your door or without shipping? Also what about import taxes? I'm trying to weigh up some options, would really like Wat's but don't know if they are really worth the price they are looking to cost. Might be better off with some Work wheels in 3 piece.

If Stewart Wilkins is as good as he says he is he should have it fixed in no time. From the sound of it I think the problem would be a distributor related issue. I would check the breaker plate if it's the E12-80 module electronic distributor. It just won't let the engine advance and caused me all sorts of grief. Seems like the old girl should be putting out more power. However if it's only had a mild port and mild cam then I guess it's probably correct.

for what it's worth this is my "NISSAN" valve cover from my L28 with a P90 head. As far as I know the engine was not imported but cannot be sure. I've seen this valve cover before but with a slightly BIGGER "NISSAN" stamped onto it. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/1316digitalcamera_046.jpg sorry it's upside down can't take photos of it at the moment it's at the engine head shop. I have enjoyed reading this thread for the most part.

Interesting thread, did you find out what the problem was? I'd be very interesting in what parts your running in your engine. Is the head N42? Does it have L14 rods? I guess your still wondering yourself. Regards,

If it's most obviously while on the brakes I'd say it's a wheel bearing but please try to be more specific. An inspection of Uni joints would be a good start. Often you will be able to see a reddish powder around them when they are stuffed and often you will be able to feel quite a bit of play in them. How do your rear drums feel after a drive are they hot to touch? Could be drums gripping while driving.

Can't talk you out of this one, it looks great only let down and it's only a very small let down is the engine bay. It's just a bit dirty looking the rest is lovely though. Having said that stick with what you have, half the fun is restoring the car.

Ron I'm also curious since I've bought a 300 .560 cam. A set of triple Mikuni 44's I've ported my P90 getting larger stainless valves. Going for a custom sprocket etc. I'm building an L31 and depending on price I may consider selling my stuff. I couldn't find Mikuni 50's anywhere.:paranoid:

Actually the P90 was available here although somewhat rare. It could be found on the 1980's patrol's. It was also available on some late 280zx's although I can't confirm the ZX part. It was definately found on some model's with the L-series.

I'd recommend an N42 for alot of the reasons stated above. I'd also go with an N42 in general since P90's are over priced and under compressed . P90 is the best head for turbo charging stock. For N/A I reakon the N42 is the best to begin with.