Jump to content

khughes

Members
  • Posts

    1,210
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

About khughes


  • User Group: Members


  • Member ID: 5984


  • Title: www.project240k.com


  • Content Count: 1,210


  • Content Post Ratio: 0.18


  • Reputation: 2


  • Achievement Points: 7,430


  • Member Of The Days Won: 1


  • Joined: 06/10/2004


  • Been With Us For: 6637 Days


  • Last Activity:


  • Currently:


Clubs

khughes last won the day on October 26 2006

khughes had the most liked content!

6 Followers

Contact

  • Map Location
    Australia

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    c110 240k

Social Sites

  • Website
    http://www.project240k.com

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

khughes's Achievements

MenZor

MenZor (12/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare

Recent Badges

2

Reputation

  1. Hi Guys, Does anyone have any experience with the early RHD 240Z internal fuse box with the long pig tails? I recently pulled my dashboard out to get reskinned, and while i was at it i replaced my old internal x with the long pigtail MSA fuse box (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-5011). I did label connectors as i took them all off, but i am a little confused with the 2 large White (BATT) connectors on the Fusebox. I didn't get a decent photo when i unplugged everything, but i am pretty sure that the old fuse box was hooked up with a single spade connector going into the loom (though this appears non-original/hacked up by PO, and i am not sure what colour the cable is.. i forgot to check) and the other large spade seems like it was only connected to a power cable for a CD stacker (with a dodgy small spade.. quality).. I also have the smaller White (i think..) cable connected to the fuse box with the standard bullet connection. Definitely doesn't match any of the electrical charts i can find online which show there should be 2 large White/Red cables going to these connections on the fuse box.. one to the Ammeter and the other to the Alternator I have connected the single spade up to the fuse box, and it did allow me to start the car (and the AMP meter works). I have also had a look for where the other white/red cable could be, but can only find it up higher in the loom with a simple Male/Female connector (which looks factory, and old.. so it seems standard). Can anyone help me out? i need to confirm if the second White/Red needs to be connected on these really early (low Vin 70's) cars, and if so where does/should it go? everything i can find wiring diagram wise looks like it should be connected.. there just doesn't seem to be anywhere for it to go. Here is the original fuse installed Connections after removing fuse box and heater panel (the CD changer connection that i am 90% sure was connected to the other spade is that yellow cable on the left) MSA fuse connectors (i had to cut off the large white connectors to put on large female spade connectors to suit) and finally, the back of the dash showing the standard loom and connectors, and the White/Red male/female connector higher up in the dash Appreciate any help you guys can give.. i don't want to put it all back together to find that there is a loose high amp wire floating around somewhere in the dash to cause a fire or something Thanks Kent
  2. @7tooZ did you have any clearence issues with the front torsion rods?
  3. I did patcon, it was unclear if the early cars where somehow different, my car is also RHD.. so more potential issues.. I give Sean the benefit of the doubt as there is no way he would be able to test every year and chassis. It would be simple to modify the footwell, but I want to keep the floorpan original (for now.. will probably strengthen frame rails later). 7tooZ, to be honest I didn't expect much of a performance gain from the std 2.4 I have (with Weber's).. I had a rusting performance exhaust already, but the sound wasn't great.. I am sure it will be great once it's fitted (the sound from the videos I have seen look awesome)
  4. Argh.. not what I wanted to hear ? but thanks 7tooZ, i was trying to avoid having to get the header cut up or bent out of shape, but it looks like it is inevitable
  5. Hi Guys, I have a HS30 (RHD) early Numbered 70's 240Z. I bought an awesome Z-story exhaust system including sports extractors. Unfortunately when i went to fit the extractors they hit up against the left hand side floor well, and also the end threads of the tension control rods. Z story have stated that they should fit, and i believe them. As far as i know the car is pretty original, but i do know that the car was once "restored" (badly).. before i go trying to get the exhaust modified to clear.. i was just wondering if there is anyway that my engine mounts are incorrect, or if there is any difference between the year models? I only ask because the top of the engine is also very very close to hitting my Cusco strut brace (to the point where the ignition leads can not fit between the rocker cover and the brace). i would prefer to replace the mounts than modify the exhaust.. there is certainly no way i am going to bash the crap out of the floorwell :)any other suggestions would also be greatly appreciated
  6. are you able to ship to Australia?
  7. Sorry, my misunderstanding Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  8. directed at me? i don't believe i mentioned a "Weber" curve.. but manifolds for weber's that i have seen do not support vacuum advance (although the BT Dizzy will).. which is partly why i sort out advice when i programmed mine.
  9. The Bluetooth version do not come with a base map like their set and forget versions, however i was lucky that i was given a lot of usefull advice both on hybridz, and viczcar (the Australian Z forum). I was a little silly and decided to change my Carb's to 40DCOE webers (without any weber experience), electrical fuel pump, spark leads and dizzy all in one go.. ideally i should have done one by one.. but The dizzy map i posted on the following link got the car running to the point where i could get it on a trailer and to a weber tuner. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/16394-advice-on-l24-ignition-curve/ After tuning, the car has driven well, although i am waiting on a zstory exhaust to be properly fitted, and a new set of intake manifolds/linkages before i get the car more precisely tuned (on a dyno).. I think some hand holding may be needed to help an old school weber tuner understand a bluetooth dizzy if your in that scenario. For me, the dizzy looks stock standard, runs really well, it also allows me to use a new component rather than relying on getting an old L28 electric dizzy recurved etc. To be fair, i have had a lot of "connection" issues from my mobile and the android app. I didn't when i originally set it up (although it did have map saving issues in that version of the app), but more recently when i have wanted to "monitor" the car, its been a real pain to get it reading.. unfortunately my car doesn't live with me fulltime.. so i only get rare opportunities to mess with it.. it could just be my phone.. but i need to contact them and follow it through.. it doesn't affect the running of the car on the current curve in anyway however. There is a surprising small amount of info out there on the tune123, however the stuff that was there gave me some worries on the dizzy fitment and the supplied adaptors. In the end however, i had NO such issues.. it fitted perfectly on my early L24. I used their recommended beru red coil as it requires a different resistance spec to the standard coils.
  10. I have one, and it's great! I have to admit it is tricky to get try he phone to connect to it, but once your maps setup, it is solid and you don't tend to use your phone much after, though you can use it to monitor.. any questions then ask away! I had a thread on hybridz with the base l24 (exhaust and 40dcoe) that worked for me Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  11. Any plans for an RHD option? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  12. Hi Alan, Sorry to dig up an old thread, but i am currently looking at getting some MK63's for my early 240Z, Can i ask you if the Peugeot 306 GTi solution will fit the early 240Z or late 240Z/260Z front struts? Kent
  13. Hi Guys, i have been searching for a couple of days on the mentioned 13/16" rear drum cylinders.. i could only come up with the Datsun 1200 (B110) having that size.. maybe my search skills have just gone to crap. I am looking at a S12+8 or MK63 (if i can push it) upgrade, and i want to keep the car balanced and close to original (early 240z). Anyone got any further information on this drum upgrade? and if these are off another model car, how easy are they to find and adapt? Thanks Guys
  14. Brilliant, thanks for posting Jason! I am still trying to decide between the Fujitsubo or spirit garage twin system (real shame Sean doesn't do a twin with his sport/race).. though I am not sure I can justify the extra $1k over the Fujitsubo (especially on what is going to remain a pretty stock l24) Now knowing the release date, I can put it on the backburner for a couple of months
  15. the only place i have seen it mentioned was http://zclub.net/forum/showpost.php?p=188362&postcount=24 and the related picture at the end of http://zclub.net/forum/showpost.php?p=192007&postcount=27 looks like some real bending to make it fit.. I would have thought it would have come up more in peoples reviews if it was an issue (unless most just bend it without a second thought). Yours seem to have no such issues (and I assume your race/sport ones also have no issues? would you also say that the fujitsubo headers are similar to your street/sport ones?).. unsure if they have changed this in the newer version (if the headers have changed) Kent
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.