Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


khughes last won the day on October 26 2006

khughes had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2 Neutral


About khughes

  • Rank


  • Map Location

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    c110 240k

Social Sites

  • Website

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. @7tooZ did you have any clearence issues with the front torsion rods?
  2. I did patcon, it was unclear if the early cars where somehow different, my car is also RHD.. so more potential issues.. I give Sean the benefit of the doubt as there is no way he would be able to test every year and chassis. It would be simple to modify the footwell, but I want to keep the floorpan original (for now.. will probably strengthen frame rails later). 7tooZ, to be honest I didn't expect much of a performance gain from the std 2.4 I have (with Weber's).. I had a rusting performance exhaust already, but the sound wasn't great.. I am sure it will be great once it's fitted (the sound from the videos I have seen look awesome)
  3. Argh.. not what I wanted to hear ? but thanks 7tooZ, i was trying to avoid having to get the header cut up or bent out of shape, but it looks like it is inevitable
  4. Hi Guys, I have a HS30 (RHD) early Numbered 70's 240Z. I bought an awesome Z-story exhaust system including sports extractors. Unfortunately when i went to fit the extractors they hit up against the left hand side floor well, and also the end threads of the tension control rods. Z story have stated that they should fit, and i believe them. As far as i know the car is pretty original, but i do know that the car was once "restored" (badly).. before i go trying to get the exhaust modified to clear.. i was just wondering if there is anyway that my engine mounts are incorrect, or if there is any difference between the year models? I only ask because the top of the engine is also very very close to hitting my Cusco strut brace (to the point where the ignition leads can not fit between the rocker cover and the brace). i would prefer to replace the mounts than modify the exhaust.. there is certainly no way i am going to bash the crap out of the floorwell :)any other suggestions would also be greatly appreciated
  5. are you able to ship to Australia?
  6. Sorry, my misunderstanding Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  7. directed at me? i don't believe i mentioned a "Weber" curve.. but manifolds for weber's that i have seen do not support vacuum advance (although the BT Dizzy will).. which is partly why i sort out advice when i programmed mine.
  8. The Bluetooth version do not come with a base map like their set and forget versions, however i was lucky that i was given a lot of usefull advice both on hybridz, and viczcar (the Australian Z forum). I was a little silly and decided to change my Carb's to 40DCOE webers (without any weber experience), electrical fuel pump, spark leads and dizzy all in one go.. ideally i should have done one by one.. but The dizzy map i posted on the following link got the car running to the point where i could get it on a trailer and to a weber tuner. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/16394-advice-on-l24-ignition-curve/ After tuning, the car has driven well, although i am waiting on a zstory exhaust to be properly fitted, and a new set of intake manifolds/linkages before i get the car more precisely tuned (on a dyno).. I think some hand holding may be needed to help an old school weber tuner understand a bluetooth dizzy if your in that scenario. For me, the dizzy looks stock standard, runs really well, it also allows me to use a new component rather than relying on getting an old L28 electric dizzy recurved etc. To be fair, i have had a lot of "connection" issues from my mobile and the android app. I didn't when i originally set it up (although it did have map saving issues in that version of the app), but more recently when i have wanted to "monitor" the car, its been a real pain to get it reading.. unfortunately my car doesn't live with me fulltime.. so i only get rare opportunities to mess with it.. it could just be my phone.. but i need to contact them and follow it through.. it doesn't affect the running of the car on the current curve in anyway however. There is a surprising small amount of info out there on the tune123, however the stuff that was there gave me some worries on the dizzy fitment and the supplied adaptors. In the end however, i had NO such issues.. it fitted perfectly on my early L24. I used their recommended beru red coil as it requires a different resistance spec to the standard coils.
  9. I have one, and it's great! I have to admit it is tricky to get try he phone to connect to it, but once your maps setup, it is solid and you don't tend to use your phone much after, though you can use it to monitor.. any questions then ask away! I had a thread on hybridz with the base l24 (exhaust and 40dcoe) that worked for me Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  10. Any plans for an RHD option? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  11. Hi Alan, Sorry to dig up an old thread, but i am currently looking at getting some MK63's for my early 240Z, Can i ask you if the Peugeot 306 GTi solution will fit the early 240Z or late 240Z/260Z front struts? Kent
  12. Hi Guys, i have been searching for a couple of days on the mentioned 13/16" rear drum cylinders.. i could only come up with the Datsun 1200 (B110) having that size.. maybe my search skills have just gone to crap. I am looking at a S12+8 or MK63 (if i can push it) upgrade, and i want to keep the car balanced and close to original (early 240z). Anyone got any further information on this drum upgrade? and if these are off another model car, how easy are they to find and adapt? Thanks Guys
  13. Brilliant, thanks for posting Jason! I am still trying to decide between the Fujitsubo or spirit garage twin system (real shame Sean doesn't do a twin with his sport/race).. though I am not sure I can justify the extra $1k over the Fujitsubo (especially on what is going to remain a pretty stock l24) Now knowing the release date, I can put it on the backburner for a couple of months
  14. the only place i have seen it mentioned was http://zclub.net/forum/showpost.php?p=188362&postcount=24 and the related picture at the end of http://zclub.net/forum/showpost.php?p=192007&postcount=27 looks like some real bending to make it fit.. I would have thought it would have come up more in peoples reviews if it was an issue (unless most just bend it without a second thought). Yours seem to have no such issues (and I assume your race/sport ones also have no issues? would you also say that the fujitsubo headers are similar to your street/sport ones?).. unsure if they have changed this in the newer version (if the headers have changed) Kent
  15. Sean, What is the functional difference between your race-sport and street-sport headers? would the race-sport headers be too much for a relatively stock L24 with 40DCOE's (eventually i will likely get the head ported and probably a cam but not for some time). I like the idea and look of the equal length headers such as your race-sport model Kent
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.