Victor Laury

Dam! dam,dam, dam I would pay well over 125 for just the rally clock oscillator box (the little box connected to the clock) Shoot! I've been looking for that for a while. It must have been a short auction.

Iam wearing the the Sumitomo HTRZ's on my roadster. They are sticky. If I get into an oversteer situation and work my way throught it, They hop hard instead of give way, sort of bang,bang,bang in quick succession. Before that, I had my Victo's on full time. I was warned by a freind, Gordon Glasgow, that race tires on the weekend warrior may not be a good thing. His BFG R-1's on his 510, ended up cracking across the face, well before wearing out. Of course, I'm too smart to listen. That is, untill the Victo's cracked arcoss the face, well before wearing out! But, It was very cool. besides the grip, there's the coolness factor of people tell you, "Hey! your tires are worn bald!" To which you reply, "I know. I paid extra for that!" Oh, most of the DOT race tires have a VERY stiff inner sidewall that transfers the bump of every pothole and divit straight to your arse! To some that might be pleasnt. I didn't car for it much. If your just going to drive across town (or 100 miles) to the AutoX event. leaving your Victoracers on is good idea. Beats changing tires at the track!

I looked at them - you silly kid! And I thought, "Wasn't this what he was doing last time he crashed his car?" and, "Drifting on snow... isn't that cheating?" Mostly, I laughed, up roarously, thinking, "Look at this kid terrorize his neighborhood!", "If I did this, they'd take me away in a straight jacket!" and "God! It must be great being young!"

Dude! you must be confusing me with someone trying to steal your Pik-a-nik basket. Come on Carl, i mean booboobudy, I wasn't trying to sound like a know it all. and if I ever do, I expect to get called on it. What happen? Ranger Smith come down on your racket?

All engines need Crankcase ventilation. It's more a "performance thing" and not a "smog thing" at all. What is done with the gases it ventilates IS a "smog thing". I suggest you retain all ventilation features. It's your choice what you hook it up to. In the Bad Ol Days, the crankcase breather was connected to a "draft tube" that just spilled out under the car. The end of the tube was cut at a slant, to create a slight vacuum at speed. This system had a side benefit, as your rings wore, you'd get a free undercarriage lube/rustproffing. Needless to say, the draft tube is NOT eco-friendly! Our racers and some of our street machines, hook the block breather up to a "puke can" to keep blowby oil off the track, which the other racers frown upon . If your engine is healthy, keeping the PCV system is a good thing. a little negative crankcase pressure helps overall performance and ring sealing.

How about this,,, I stand by the fence, on Griffith Street, and you pass the tasty parts over the fence....

That's it! All you bastages, stay away for my kitty cats! There will be no roadster rides for cat haters.

The price is right, but they're HEAVY! you could get a much lighter wheel in alum, or even steel, for 3 times more cash. These would look perfect on a mid 80's Buick turbo coupe.

Guus, Please tell us. I can't get to any of the sites. "Sports" content is filtered out from my work server.

it sounds like a true short in the sidemarkers or dashlights or rear running lights or cigar lighter(?) What was disturbed lately?

This has been cured in the past by several members. I, am not one of them. The car I had this problem with, got parted-out before I cured it. (that fixed it for good ) It has been found in some cases that there's a high resistance contact in the aging light switch stalk. In others, a fault was found in the marker lights connections (one was reversed or light sockets were corroded). but first, really ensure you get the best possible contacts at the fuse box. really clean those contacts to shiny brass, squeeze them togther then install a new fuse. If it blows again, read the recent write-ups on refurbising the light stalk. Or replace with new, if availible.

Looks like a "Rat Fink" cartoon, come alive!

They look like Appliance (brand) mesh style wheels

OH! OH! My ZX dizzy did this to me! Check and see if the plug to the dizzy is all the way in! Mine worked it's way out, to the point where it LOOKED like it was connected, but it was JUST making contact, The car would run, but, sputter in the upper RPM's Just hoping your problem is just that simple.

Well, here's an update on my headlight harness manufacturing ambition - - - - - - F! Bloody F! :sick: :disappoin :mad: A box with $300 in terminals, housings and relay bases were in my car, when it was stolen! needless to say, The box wasn't there (along with everything else) when I picked her up at the police impound! Well, I don't know if I have the heart to buy all that stuff again!

Don't forget, you guys down-under didn't get the giant nasty bumpers! Face it, your 260Z WAS a truly improved model to the 240Z. Ours, (US spec) was a sad state of affairs, as the Feds gobbed one after another requirement upon the poor fairlady's back!

Allen, That is a front-mounted bar. So, 71,72, 73(?) U.S. Spec cars will not have the brakets for mounting this bar and require drilling. Now, your third photo shows a Z body With the factory front-mounted rear sway bar (wow tonge twister). I'm guessing that's a later car. Steve (ZVoiture) did a lot of reseach 2 months ago, you should search the forums for his posts. I believe he found that the later bars would not fit the early cars, even if you drilled and installed brackets, as the floorpan was different and the later bars got blocked by the snout fo the diffy. I can tell you, that the MSA bar (Drill to mount) bar on my car has a major bend in the middle to clear the diffy.

I have an order in with her. Should I refuse payment until a photo is posted?:classic:

That artical is specifically for installing the Borg-Warner T-5 transmission from a 280ZX Turbo. To install a FS5C71B from a 280Z and N/A 280ZX, Find one, take out the four speed, put in the 5 speed. Easy, yes? Well, that may be a little simplistic. Here's my write-up, when I swapped up to a 5 speed Vic's 5 Speed Adventure

Whoa! I just recognized who "Oil Leak" was! Hey Brian! Anougher Roaster owner joins our ranks. You got the "Oil Leak" tag from your Bug-eye sprite, right?

Well, I have seen the photos and I see a very nice, white 73 in good form, obviously doted upon by your Father-in-law or previous owner. Photo labled "driver side hose" This is (was) the vacuum supply for the air injection system. Although we may argue on some items, we pretty much agree that the air system does far more harm than good. keep it pluged, or consider removing the rest of the system entirely. Photo Labled "lower hose" this is the crankcase vent that was connected to the PCV valve on the original setup. Do not plug. All engines need a crankcase vent, for more, the merrier. Before the mid 1960's, engines were vented to the atmospere, via a "draft tube". This is in no way "eco-friendly". Many here, who have fitted an alternate carburation system, have installed a "puke can" (lovely terminology, I perfer "catch can") to connect this hose, and the valve cover vent hose (below), to keep them vented, and keep the oil off the street. Photo Labled "valvecoverhose" see above. or just fit a small filter, availible in most Hot Rod shops, From K&N filters, to both hoses.

Fuse, Right hand side of the fuse box, three down. Replace that one with a NEW one, AFTER you clean the clips thoughly, and give them a bit of a tightening squeeze.