Ben

FWIW I bought new rollers from Nissan Australia about 6 months ago, ex Japan.

I've got a Carter P60430 on my 240Z. That pump originally fuelled the SU's, now it's a priming pump for my Bosch HP pump. My car didn't have an electric pump, but I still hooked it up to the original wiring & patched that into ignition power. Ideally, you should wire the pump so it only works when cranking, or when the engine has oil pressure. Now my pumps are controlled by the ECU so that's all taken care of. When getting a blanking plate, you will need one from a car that DOESN'T have power steering (the PS pump bracket is the blanking plate on PS equipped engines). You can always make one out of a piece of alloy, or mild steel. Thank you Brett - you've posted Simon de Groot's new web address!

FWIW, in Australia - windshields easy. Everything else, no chance.

It's a big place to see in a couple of weeks, but I'll see what I can come up with.... The Blue Mountains are nice (west of Sydney) (Ok so it was 25 years ago that I was in that neighbourhood....) If you get a chance, get a drive along the Great Ocean Road in Victoria (allow 2 days for that). It's BETTER that the Big Sur Coast in California (no offence California, it's a nice stretch of road, but ours is better ). Try to visit the Gold Coast, or the Sunshine coast in Queensland, and if time permits, get up to Cairns & do a reef tour. If you're into wines get yourself to the the Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale regions in SA & the Hunter Valley in NSW. About 3000km away is the spectacular landscape of the Kimberly-region in NT/WA. And then you have Uluru (Ayers Rock) right in the middle. This is a SHORT list & there are dozens of other places (naturally) that are great to see. Somewhere in there, find some Z & GT-R owners & get a few rides in! Almost forgot, the Clipsal 500 is run in Adelaide on March 18-21, so if you want to see the city streets carved up by dozens of race-cars, be there! http://www.clipsal500.com.au/

I paid $90USD each from Nissan Motorsports for my set a few years back. I too have since heard that they are NLA. Haven't used them yet, can't bring myself to putting holes in my headlight buckets.... Hey Alan, when you get a chance, could you collate some of these Japanese store websites into some kind of list? Even if I don't buy stuff from them (which is unlikely), I still need more drool material!

My 240 will be on the road by then, so if you do end up in Adelaide, drop me a line. I should also be able to take you for a ride in a Skyline GT-R & a Pulsar GTi-R.....

The rally car that I mentioned above is still for sale as a complete vehicle. See the current issue of Australian Classic Car ( near the back) for an ad. Asking price is $28K complete ($100K+ to build)

The '84 Skyline has no backing plate. The caliper mounting tabs are welded to the control arm. The LN65 Hilux calipers are only suited to the non-vented setup. The later model 4-Runner calipers suit the vented disc, but I'm not 100% which ones.

No, as I expect them to be oil/gas & not be able to cope with the loads (especially heat) that you would be placing on them. A Koni, Bilstein or KYB Motorsports item would be better. Your best bet is to speak to local racers & race suppliers to see what they recommend (and what fits your budget).

The run-size of the OEM Kayaba's isn't generally an issue, as they tend to sell a few more! But the KYB Motorsports stuff is made to order & they (thankfully) only have a requirement of 1 to be ordered before they will manufacture it.

Kayaba Motorsports shocks aren't cheap either. Expect to pay around $800 each for the base model. The good thing about them, is that they're made to order & the minimum run quantity is 1 (asopposed to OEM-replacement Kayaba's which are around $150 & minimum factory run is about 20).

That's a 180, you can tell by: It's rectangular/oval rear section (200 is squarer). The alloy side plates for the bearings/seals

I have seen this scam attempted here in Australia too. It is basically a variation of the '419' (I've got $25M locked away & I need your $10K to get it out of the country) scam. But it appears a little more personal, as they speak about YOUR car. Only a few weeks ago, I got a 419 e-mail, that referred to my family name! (such a nice personal touch....) SELLER BEWARE!!!! It's ironic that these scams have surfaced, as a friend of mine has just sold his 610 rally car to an guy in Africa (it arrived there a week ago)! (It's all legit, we know the buyer & the car is being used in a historical rally series).

I'm seriously considering this very swap on a fresh L24 bottom end I've built. The only thing I need to check is valve/block clearances.

I know someone who was selling the following is anyone is interested: Proflex Struts. Roving Bush, Double bump adj, rebound adj. The asking price is $6000AUD, located in NSW. He's also selling lots of other ex-rally compontentry (parting out his 260Z coupe rally car), contact me to find out more.

Too much horsepower, not enough skill?

I recommend that you fit 35 & 44mm valves. Most power gains in the L engines are in head work & the valve sizes are one area that it's easy to improve on.

:surprised sensational!!!!

The mention of the use of Option boxes in Aussie 260Z's is incorrect. However I believe that there was a large number of CROD boxes used, as mentioned above. And due to the closeness of the gears, a number of people believed that they were true Option boxes. I have a friend with an Option 3 gearbox behind a Z24 turbo. But the gears are just too close together to be suitable for that application. Heck, you can skip 2nd 3rd & 4th and still get moving quick....

Fill the FS5W©71B gearbox with OS-Giken or Hollinger internals and you won't have any issues with strength.... But you may have an issue with the hip pocket-factor

The L-series EFI systems are anaolgue. So no replacement chips can be used. The Z31-up ECCS systems are digital & can be modified more readily.

I'm planning on doing the same thing with my rear lights. But since I haven't been able to find a socket yet, I'll probably wire up an isolation circuit that will allow me to turn on the rear lights only. If anyone does find an appropriate OEM bulb socket, I would much appreciate the details! My DR30 Skyline has this feature, it lights up the outboard taillights & the front parkers, as opposed to the European cars which light up one side only (depending on indicator position).

I would expect that it's just many thousands of miles' worth of carbon/fuel deposits on the back of the valve. One of the things that will slowly reduce the total power that you engine makes. A good method of cleaning that kind of buildup away is to use water injection (yes, even on a NA engine). The water will dissolve the deposits in the intake tract & the back of the intake valve. And most importantly, it will steam-clean the piston crown, combustion chamber, exhaust valve/port/manifold of the hardened carbon deposits.

Gav - we want 12MB next time of 3000-7000rpm goodness!

The interior looks pretty damn good!