Ben

Ok, now is a good time to start from scratch & get the timing 100% correct. Remove the rocker cover & get the engine at verified TDC compression #1. Check your cam timing marks. Remove the dizzy & confim that the drive is in the correct (11:25) position. If not, sort it (drop the pump & re-align). Then check you plug wire orientation on the cap: 1-5-3-6-2-4 Re-assemble everything, disable the fuelling system & crank the engine with the plugs out & a timing light attached to #1. Verify that you are happy with the timing (anywhere between 10 & 20 deg advanced will do at this stage!). You should now be confident that you have a strong spark, occuring at the right time, so you can move on to fuelling issues. And since I don't know how to spell 'Edelbrock' or 'Holley' this is where I bail out

aRCH-Z, if you had a 240Z you'd be well aware of the living with an MPH speedo situation As for your tacho (bearing in mind that it contains the indicator pilot lamps), I'm just getting mine modified to suit my MSD ignition. So you could do likewise to suit the tacho output of your ECU (stock, or aftermarket).

An indicator-switch rebuild kit you say? This I have to investigate! (I too have the 'indicate-right-damn-you!' problem with my switch)

I'm 99% sure that fitting an RB26DETT will require engineering here in SA. But don't take my word for it, ask the technical section at TSA Regency Park (1300 882 248). An RB20DET will also probably require an engineers certificate, as I know that an RB25DE requires an AIP (approval in priciple), and that has 20kW less than an RB20DET. For an RB26DETT conversion, you should budget around $10k for a 'basic' setup. An RB20/5DET could probably be done for around 1/2 that, and the RB20/5DE for a less again. If you plan on using a non-turbo engine, then the RB25DE is really the only choice, as the RB20DE will have no more grunt than a very mild L28E.

I use my work e-mail address as my MSN address, so I'd rather not post it in an 'open' forum. However, anyone who wants it can PM me, or if I add you into my contact list you'll get it anyway!

The rats-nest that is the interior.... Once I get all this sorted, I'll get back to plotting my new motor design. It could be a few months before I get really stuck into it though.

Not yet, I'm trying to concentrate on getting the car inspected & running before the end of the year.... As you can see, there is still plenty to be done in the engine bay & with the wiring.

I'd say so, even if you consumed 100% more fuel, it's still a low overall flow rate (compared to EFI or Turbocharging).

FWIW I bought new rollers from Nissan Australia about 6 months ago, ex Japan.

I've got a Carter P60430 on my 240Z. That pump originally fuelled the SU's, now it's a priming pump for my Bosch HP pump. My car didn't have an electric pump, but I still hooked it up to the original wiring & patched that into ignition power. Ideally, you should wire the pump so it only works when cranking, or when the engine has oil pressure. Now my pumps are controlled by the ECU so that's all taken care of. When getting a blanking plate, you will need one from a car that DOESN'T have power steering (the PS pump bracket is the blanking plate on PS equipped engines). You can always make one out of a piece of alloy, or mild steel. Thank you Brett - you've posted Simon de Groot's new web address!

FWIW, in Australia - windshields easy. Everything else, no chance.

It's a big place to see in a couple of weeks, but I'll see what I can come up with.... The Blue Mountains are nice (west of Sydney) (Ok so it was 25 years ago that I was in that neighbourhood....) If you get a chance, get a drive along the Great Ocean Road in Victoria (allow 2 days for that). It's BETTER that the Big Sur Coast in California (no offence California, it's a nice stretch of road, but ours is better ). Try to visit the Gold Coast, or the Sunshine coast in Queensland, and if time permits, get up to Cairns & do a reef tour. If you're into wines get yourself to the the Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale regions in SA & the Hunter Valley in NSW. About 3000km away is the spectacular landscape of the Kimberly-region in NT/WA. And then you have Uluru (Ayers Rock) right in the middle. This is a SHORT list & there are dozens of other places (naturally) that are great to see. Somewhere in there, find some Z & GT-R owners & get a few rides in! Almost forgot, the Clipsal 500 is run in Adelaide on March 18-21, so if you want to see the city streets carved up by dozens of race-cars, be there! http://www.clipsal500.com.au/

I paid $90USD each from Nissan Motorsports for my set a few years back. I too have since heard that they are NLA. Haven't used them yet, can't bring myself to putting holes in my headlight buckets.... Hey Alan, when you get a chance, could you collate some of these Japanese store websites into some kind of list? Even if I don't buy stuff from them (which is unlikely), I still need more drool material!

My 240 will be on the road by then, so if you do end up in Adelaide, drop me a line. I should also be able to take you for a ride in a Skyline GT-R & a Pulsar GTi-R.....

The rally car that I mentioned above is still for sale as a complete vehicle. See the current issue of Australian Classic Car ( near the back) for an ad. Asking price is $28K complete ($100K+ to build)

The '84 Skyline has no backing plate. The caliper mounting tabs are welded to the control arm. The LN65 Hilux calipers are only suited to the non-vented setup. The later model 4-Runner calipers suit the vented disc, but I'm not 100% which ones.

No, as I expect them to be oil/gas & not be able to cope with the loads (especially heat) that you would be placing on them. A Koni, Bilstein or KYB Motorsports item would be better. Your best bet is to speak to local racers & race suppliers to see what they recommend (and what fits your budget).

The run-size of the OEM Kayaba's isn't generally an issue, as they tend to sell a few more! But the KYB Motorsports stuff is made to order & they (thankfully) only have a requirement of 1 to be ordered before they will manufacture it.

Kayaba Motorsports shocks aren't cheap either. Expect to pay around $800 each for the base model. The good thing about them, is that they're made to order & the minimum run quantity is 1 (asopposed to OEM-replacement Kayaba's which are around $150 & minimum factory run is about 20).

That's a 180, you can tell by: It's rectangular/oval rear section (200 is squarer). The alloy side plates for the bearings/seals

I have seen this scam attempted here in Australia too. It is basically a variation of the '419' (I've got $25M locked away & I need your $10K to get it out of the country) scam. But it appears a little more personal, as they speak about YOUR car. Only a few weeks ago, I got a 419 e-mail, that referred to my family name! (such a nice personal touch....) SELLER BEWARE!!!! It's ironic that these scams have surfaced, as a friend of mine has just sold his 610 rally car to an guy in Africa (it arrived there a week ago)! (It's all legit, we know the buyer & the car is being used in a historical rally series).

I'm seriously considering this very swap on a fresh L24 bottom end I've built. The only thing I need to check is valve/block clearances.

I know someone who was selling the following is anyone is interested: Proflex Struts. Roving Bush, Double bump adj, rebound adj. The asking price is $6000AUD, located in NSW. He's also selling lots of other ex-rally compontentry (parting out his 260Z coupe rally car), contact me to find out more.

Too much horsepower, not enough skill?

I recommend that you fit 35 & 44mm valves. Most power gains in the L engines are in head work & the valve sizes are one area that it's easy to improve on.