Ben

Ok let's clear this up! :classic: We're not talking about the Holden 253, 308 or the Chev 350 engine, we're talking about the Nissan VH45DE used in the Infiniti models. I was wondering what the heck we were talking about when it was said that the VH V8 was dodgy! ROFL And there's no way I'd put an Aussie Gen III in my Zed either!

Yes Mick, I was dobbing you in! Is the 4.4L V8 the "chev-style" engine (used in the 280ZXTT IMSA car)? It appears that I was a generation out in my engines.... I'm thinking that the GT-R V8 would be a good call too, but getting hold of one might be a little difficult, as AFAIK we will be getting the TT V6 only. Aside from that; $$$$$...... With the clearance issues, I wouldn't be suprised if the best way to go about it would be to fabricate a tube-frame replacement for the front suspension in order to remove the stut-tower & inner guard from the equation. But that equals lots of $$$ too. Maybe a 350Z VQ35 would be a better idea?

Three is an aussie with one of these conversions complete. He was posting in a thread a few days back about CV axles for the R200, so do a search.

see http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=5 for a kit which appears to do the trick.

Since we have been referring to clutch plates (rather than a viscous centre), it's all too easy. If your 260Z is already equipped with an R200, then all you will have to do is change over the tailshaft flange & bolt it in (the flange controls pinion-height so it has to be torqued correctly). If you have an R180 equipped 260Z, then you wil need all the mounting gear from a car that already has an R200.

I had the clutches in my Skyline's R200 replaced (the tolerances are very fine) & it's been shimmed up to 90ft/lbs breakaway. Any more than that (another 3 thousandths) and it was locked. (this diff was completely open when I got the car) My Z diff is set at 65ft/lbs with the original clutches just reversed. Get someone who knows clutch-type LSD's to build it for you. The OEM setting of ~45ft/lbs is too loose for a high-power performance application.

The Gloria/Cima & Leopard ran the VQ30DET. I reckon it'd be a good call, less real-estate required than the VG30DETT but just as much power. And for only $2700 - BARGAIN!

I use PULP in all my L engines (except the low-performance L20B we've got).... With our fuel anyway (91RON ULP, 96RON, LRP, 98RON PULP) they seem to just run nicer with the PULP fuel. And with a turbo, nothing less than 98RON (if it's tuned for less octane, you'll be able to put in more timing = better economy). You will get 'some' sinking of the valve seats over time, but it takes a LONG time. And by then you'll probably have planned to rebuild the engine for that new turbo & EFI system you've bought....:classic:

A few years back I was driving to work in the Z & thought to myself "damn the front of the car is all over the place". Got there & closed the bonnet.... ROFL I priced a new vented bonnet just yesterday - ~$700 AUD ex-japan. I'm ordering one next pay....

As u can see (just). <--- I have a vented bonnet on my 240Z, but it's an aftermarket one & the hinge mouting tabs need some re-work to make it fit properly :mad: I bought it as I figured that the radiant heat from a turbo might like to escape the engine bay!!! I have 2 original 240Z bonnets & 1 FRP bonnet. I plan on buying a genuine vented bonnet shortly & painting it satin-black. If the part is NLA I'll just re-spray one of the non-vented ones instead. The paint on the original bonnet survived the heat of a high-mount T04 so everything should be ok with a T3 in a near-OEM mounting position.

NMC USA - NLA Nissan Australia - NLA MSA - Nope VB - Nope They were used in all S30 coupes (8 years worth) but they were discontiinued many years back. I tried to order some from Courtesy Nissan in '98 with no luck.. Thankfully my car won't be driven in the rain, but I'm still searching for some decent 2nd hand ones....

I would agree with you beandip, if it had rocker arms or lash pads.... Hopefully it's not tooooo serious & we'll get an update soon!

Any news on the diagnosis Cuong?

CR is very relevant (among other things). I have seen the stock head gasket cope with 1.5 bar of boost in an L20B. I've personally run 1-bar in my old EFI L24 using a stock gasket and 8:1 CR all day for a year (before deciding that the body really needed restoring). That engine has been pulled-down & rebuilt as a mild-atmo powerplant (new OEM pistons, ported head, balanced). It was the matching-numbers engine, so I wanted to keep it. I run ~0.5 bar in my 8.3:1 custom L28ET all day. I'm also currently building an engine which will be getting a constant dose of around 1.5 bar. I personally haven't used high/low boost settings. the right-foot dictates how much boost is used! I have a friend who has a custom LPG turbo L26 which lives on around 1.25 bar, but the head gasket is on the way out. We are blaming this failure on a bit of detonation that occured a few times when the wastegate was unable to control the boost (it's too small). This will all be rectified with an external gate & a bigger turbo (so it will hopefully run ~0.75 bar with the same power output). This particular engine was turning ~145kW at the treads on a dyno-dynamics dyno (3.9:1 R180 diff, 205/50x15 tyres). The only "internal modifications" this engine has had is a ceramic coating on the pistons & valves. Everything else is stock OEM. The general rule is that if you can tune it right, 400HP is do-able on stock components. But there is no room for any detonation.

So how much boost were you running at that AFR? Seriously, my FJ20ET runs leaner than that at full noise.... Less fuel is required, mid 13's will give you more power. Having said that, were these runs done with the PCV & valve breather disconnected? On a tired engine you will see a noticble difference in mixtures if you remove all the blowby....

There are bosses in the middle of the cam that you can lock onto with a pair of vise-grips. Then make sure that you have a soft surface (block of wood) for them to jam against (not the head). The last step is to apply liberal torque to a 19mm socket drive :classic:

Sorry mate, Classic Datsun Motorsports in California. :classic:

AFAIK the Z432 & GT-R flares are the same. CDM have them in stock.

Another one saved! :love:

Has he checked the turbo flange gasket? It does sound a bit like my L28ET did when I blew this gasket a while back. On second thought, it sounds much more horrible than that. My pre-listening cringing was warranted....