Ben

Don't forget that the SIII 910 (Bluebird) ran the CA20, not the L20B....

All 240/260Z's I've seen in Australia use the single-edged key for the ignition only. The 610 is also like this, but the 510 isn't (go figure....)

Bearing in mind that a fresh L28E with auto box & 3.9:1 diffproduced 68kW @ the wheels on the same dyno... I'ts not a powerhouse, but remember that it's just 6psi into an otherwise stock motor. Generally for each pound of boost, you can add 7% power.

They don't make the alloy drums any more..... Therefore, inspection required at earliest possible opportunity.

It was a while ago, but I'll try & remember.... L24 Turbo.... Heads ie: 260Z E88, 8.0:1 Cam: Stock 240Z Carbs(or injection):Custom EFI manifold, Haltech E6A exhaust: 2.5" Stainless Mandrel ignition:Custom Built dizzy, ECU controlled (have specs somewhere....) Pistons: L24 Dished (ie non-240Z L24) Other info:TO4, N-trim Turbine, 0.60 A/R Compressor 14psi boost. AiReseach Imntercooler. Laggy (but fast).... Modified 3-speed auto, 3.9:1 open R180 120kW on Dyno-Dynamics. 0-100 (0-62) ~6s And the setup that is almost complete.... L28 Turbo Heads ie:N42 8.4:1 Cam:L28E Carbs(or injection):L28E N/A EFI, SK's J-pipe. exhaust: 2.5" Stainless Mandrel ignition:the same dizzy as above.... Pistons: std L28E Other info:VG30 T3, T4 Compressor, 6psi, AiResearch Intercooler. What's lag? full-boost ~2000rpm.... Modified 3-speed auto, modified 4-speed auto. 3.54:1 open R180, 3.9:1 open R180, 4.375:1 LSD R200 ~115kW with 3.9:1 R180 & 3-speed. ~105kW with 3.54:1 R180 & 4-speed. We'll see what it's like with the bigger intercooler, exhaust & 4.375:1 LSD (This engine had been run in my Skyline for a few years & is being transplanted into my Z) Yes I'm still building my 3.1L TT engine: http://www.versadev.com/ben/twinmanifold.jpg Out of date image of my Z @ http://www.versadev.com/ben/DSC01398.JPG

Top effort Gee!!!!

There are at least 4 different SR20 blocks. The AWD RNN14 GTiR SR20DET is completely different in head & block layout to the RWD engines used in the S13/S14/S15 & the FWD engine used in the atmo N14 chassis. And these engines are all different to the AWD turbo engine used in the U12 & U13 Bluebird. It is not practical to fit the quad throttles to the RWD SR20 due to these differences. However, fitting an S13/S14/S15 SR20DET into a Z works as far as layout is concerned. In some cases, these engines can cause a troublesome installation due to the non-adjustable sump construction (cast aluminium). I can confirm that there is plenty of power in a stock GTiR engine, as my sister owns one....

Get yourself a copy of Ad-Aware from http://lavasoft.element5.com/support/download/ Take it from there.

Royce: A good point about the A series boxes. I shoud have clarified that only the 5-speed A series' used the flange output (and incidentally the 240Z's they were fitted to had a 2-piece tailshaft). All the short 4-speeds (510/610) and long 4-speeds (US Z) have a yoke output. Another thing to note is that all the yokes are the same throughout the gearboxes (A, B & C). Along with the 3-speed auto's. But the 4-speed auto's (4N71B) have a larger output shaft. Gee: Remove the gearstick & check it out. Z-Kid is 100% accurate in his probable causes for sloppiness.

The internal construction of gearboxes is something that I try to avoid. I'll do electrical and engine work without a thought, but I'll leave rebulding a gearbox to others.... There are lots of improvements between the series' of boxes (as you would expect with development). I do recall that the 'Porsche' syncro's are a superior design, but don't cope with the higher power output that some people like their engines to produce....:classic: Internal componetry for the boxes is still available, including shift forks & gears. Gav, if you are having trouble getting parts for yours (and haven't had luck with Nissan). Contact Peter Hall @ Hall Racing Enterprises here in Adelaide 08 8389 6635. He wil also slot a Hollinger gearset into the box if you so desire.... Somehow I don't think that the FS6R31A will fit without a major adapter being fabricated (give it time though). I wonder what the 'R' stands for?

We have been through this a few times before, and a search should yeild previous threads on the subject. However, in short; If you are familliar with the various shifter mechanisms of the Nissan gearboxes, you can work out the basic model designation. In stock trim, the gearboxes we are all familliar with are the FS4(5)C(W)71A( ok FS = Floor shift 4 or 5 = gears C or W = close or wide ratio 71A or B = variant The US 240Z's came with the FS4W71A, the early Euro/Jap/Aus 240Z's came with the FS5C71A. The late non-US 240Z's had the FS5C71B, and the 260/280Z(X)'s had the FS5W71B. These are general rules & do not define the exact gearsets used (of which there are many). As for identification: The A series boxes are like the 510/610/2000 Sports boxes. The shift is known as 'monkey-motion' and the gearstick is held in with a nut. The shift is also generally sloppy (wear). These boxes also have a flange output & a removable bellhousing. These gearboxes also use the Porsche-type synchros, which are expensive to fix. The B series boxes have a pin & circlip retainer for the shifter & provide a much tighter shift feel. They are also used in the 810, 910, C110, C210, R30 etc cars (basically anything between '72 & '85). These boxes use a more common (and cheaper) 'Borg-Warner' type synchro. The output is a slip-yoke (but I have seen 1 of these boxes with a flange output....) and the bellhousing extends back to a sandwich-plate (which is also where the extension housing attaches). Casting codes are non-existent, visual inspection will yeild the general model. Measurements will be required to determine exact ratios. From there you will need to query on these ratios as to which model used them (which is a detailed topic on its own). Note that I am not going into the 'option' close/ultra-close gearsets of which there are several. Nor am I going into the use of the FS5W71C gearbox, which has been made to fit L-engines. (This is the previous generation 5-speed, used behind the CA, SR & RB engines). External diff identification (R160/R180/R200/R230) straightforward (definately do a search on that one) and the only place that the ratio is marked is on the crownwheel. External ratio measurement is the easiest option. Hope this helps!

If you do a search on this site, you will find information from a previous thread regarding the legalities of putting an L28ET into a 240Z in SA. In short: I have got approval to put an L28ET (home-made) into my 240Z with the Hilux front calipers & R31 rear brakes. My car must be inspected before registration, but does not need an AIP or engineers report. Hopefully it'll be ready soon.... Having said that, you can put a blower onto a 240Z L24 with no reservations. You can also fit alternative pistons etc, so there is NO REASON why a hybrid L24 block specced out to 2.6, 2.7, 2.8 or whatever capacity will not be legal. (been there, done that too)

Very tight you say? From memory I'm not sure how they plan on installing the exhaust manifolds without cutting out the innder guards.... It's a 90 deg V8 with very wide heads! I think that the 4.0L Soarer/LS400 engine fits much better (is that a 90 deg engine?)

Very tight you say? From memory I'm not sure how they plan on installing the exhaust manifolds without cutting out the innder guards.... It's a 90 deg V8 with very wide heads! I think that the 4.0L Soarer/LS400 engine fits much better (is that a 90 deg engine?)

Slightly off topic. Gav - The person who imported my dads 510 2-door (one of 3) has another container-load of cars & parts en-route from the USA as we speak (actually, I suspect that the boat isn't too far away from Australia). If you are after one, I can put you in touch with him. They are being imported for sale after all. I've seen a couple of 510 (Bluebird) coupes, but no 2-door sedans. http://www.versadev.com/ben/birdwood2001/index_birdwood2001.html Except when I was in the USA when I went to a 510 dyno day.... And now back on topic.... George, I can relate to that, I mean really relate:love: But I haven't sold any of my cars!

I have spent a fair portion of every pay packet I've earnt on my Z since I've had it (March 1996). Dad convinced me to buy it as 'it would be fun to work on'. He's a bad influence, if I look into his backyard, I see 2x240Z's being restored, a 1200 ute, a Fairlady 1500 Roadster and his 510 4-door (which sees as much track time as he can afford). My DR30 & MR30 Skylines are out the front, my sisters' Pulsar GTiR is in the driveway too, there's also a 510 2-door import in storage interstate.... And one of my friends could rock up in an R31 Skyline, a brand new Navara, an R32 GTR, or a 260Z coupe (to name a few of the Nissans in his family). If I'm not working on my Z is beacause I need to do something on my other cars, or I'm trying to save up for a 350Z convertible.... My girlfriend of 4.5 years is tolerant, but she wants me to hurry up so we can do a car for her! (She determined not to do a Nissan - "you've got too many of them already" - HAH! )

But just to clarify... Gav, you are an idiot But a lucky idiot all the same!

The factory wheel & gear knob are synthetic. I don't know the material used, but it's not wood.

George - have a look-see inside a good uni & you'll see that between the cups & the shafts there are lots of cylindrical pieces of steel - needle roller-bearings. Without grease they will get wet & corrode. Turning into iron-oxide dust in time....

How long is a piece of string? But seriously, I really don't know, probably every 40,000km/s - when you change the diff oil.... You do change the diff oil don't you? :classic:

Indeed - every uni that I've replaced has been full of dust - dust that used to be needle rollers..... Remove the other 1/2 shaft & the tailshaft & inspect the whole lot. On 2nd thought - replace them all & get the tailshaft balanced, install a loop while you're at it. Generally speaking, the splined section of the 1/2 shafts will twist before the units will break (seen it).

If it has a grease-nipple fitting (it look like it has) then it's an aftermarket uni. Some aftermarket uni's are weaker than the factory ones. Try CBC for a replacement & let them know how tough it needs to be!

Well you certainly lunched that one! Do the stampings show a brand name? The long & short of uni removal is lots of lubricant & elbow-grease.

Can you get the nut back on? If not, cut the end off clean it up, then either pound on the re-installed nut, or use many washers to 'wind' the spindle pin out. Adding washers & backing off when required. I bought new ones from www.nissanautoparts.com a few years back & they were ~$30USD each , plus a couple of bucks for the washers & nuts.

Thank you Steve, Now for the specifics on those ADR's.... 1 - reversing lamps (1/1/72) 2 - Door latches & hinges (1/1/71) 3 - Seat anchorages (1/1/71) 4A - Seat belts - front & rear seats (1/1/74) 5A - Seat belt anchorage points - front (1/1/69) 6 - Direction turn signal lamps (1/1/73) 7 - Hydraulic brake hoses (1/1/70) 10B - Steering columns (1/1/73) 11 - Internal sun visors (1/1/72) 12 - Glare reduction in field of view (1/1/73) 14 - Rear vision mirrors (1/1/72) 15 - Demisting of windscreens (1/1/71) 16 - Windscreen wipers & washers (1/1/73) 18 - Location & visibility of instruments (1/1/73) 20 - Safety rims (1/7/70) 21 - Instrument panels (1/1/73) 22 - Head restraints (1/1/72) 23 - New pneumatic passenger car tyres (1/1/74) 24 - Tyre selection (1/1/73) 25 - Anti-theft locks (1/1/72 (yeah, right ) 27 - Vehicle engine emission control (1/1/74) 28 - Motor vehicle noise (1/1/74) So, what does this mean (specifically in relation to ADR 27)? "These vehicles can be fitted with pre-emission or emission engines. If an emission engine is fitted, all emission control equipment (eg EGR system) originally fitted to the engine must be retained and operational. Any engine fitted to the vehicle must retain the original equipment carburettor & induction system, camshaft and air cleaner for the year of manufacture of that engine." As opposed to the 240Z which is ADR26 "These vehicles may be fitted with alternative carburettors, camshafts or other engine modifications, provided that an emissions test is conducted on the vehicle and the Carbon Monoxide output does not exceed 4.5% at the manufacturers recommended engine idle speed, as specified in ADR26." If you have an earlier Z (pre '72) there are no emissions requirements. Well, that didn't answer the question, did it?