Ben

I'm already cringing & I haven't listened to it yet! Has he priced a full rebuild kit from Nissan lately? :ermm:

I thought you said it was rusty? Buy, Buy, BUY!!!! or I will (looks at empty wallet & partially restored HS30 in back yard....)

You have to remember that no-one loves a 240K. But everyone loves a Skyline GT-R....

Like the article says - the GT-R will be shown at the 2003 Tokyo Motor Show in October this year. 8(?) months before release. There are 2 powerplants on offer, the NA V8 (displacement ~5L) & the TT VQ35. One of the reasons that the US is getting the atmo V8 is due to the Ca smog laws (specifically relating to the light-up time of a cat convertor in a turbo car). If you recall, Subaru addressed this problem by putting pre-cats into the WRX, but it still only just passes.... (the pre-cats also have a tendancy to melt, which can very quickly destroy the turbine). There is another quote in the article relating to the selection of the V8 for the US market, but I don't want to miss-quote it so it'll have to wait until I get home tonight. :classic:

I subscribed specifically to win that 350Z, so don't any of you other buggers go ruining my odds....

The export versions were L24, single carb, hence the 240 designation. The domestic versions were Skylines, not 240K's. L20A/24/28(?) & S20 powered.

Indeed I've been looking at C10 & C110 GT-R's (and replicas) on a number of Japanses sites (and in magazines). It's tempting to get a replica (ie 2000 GTX) with an L28, triples etc. But only as they are MUCH cheaper (like $60-70,000 cheaper) and it would be tough to get S20 parts over here.... You can get a 2000 GT-X with flares, GT-R spoiler etc for around $30K AUD. Plus shipping.....

Only if you hack out the rear arches....

One sample of a GTR replica....

Based on those findings, I'd be interested to see what compression the rest of the engine produces when tested 'wet'.

Don't forget that the SIII 910 (Bluebird) ran the CA20, not the L20B....

All 240/260Z's I've seen in Australia use the single-edged key for the ignition only. The 610 is also like this, but the 510 isn't (go figure....)

Bearing in mind that a fresh L28E with auto box & 3.9:1 diffproduced 68kW @ the wheels on the same dyno... I'ts not a powerhouse, but remember that it's just 6psi into an otherwise stock motor. Generally for each pound of boost, you can add 7% power.

They don't make the alloy drums any more..... Therefore, inspection required at earliest possible opportunity.

It was a while ago, but I'll try & remember.... L24 Turbo.... Heads ie: 260Z E88, 8.0:1 Cam: Stock 240Z Carbs(or injection):Custom EFI manifold, Haltech E6A exhaust: 2.5" Stainless Mandrel ignition:Custom Built dizzy, ECU controlled (have specs somewhere....) Pistons: L24 Dished (ie non-240Z L24) Other info:TO4, N-trim Turbine, 0.60 A/R Compressor 14psi boost. AiReseach Imntercooler. Laggy (but fast).... Modified 3-speed auto, 3.9:1 open R180 120kW on Dyno-Dynamics. 0-100 (0-62) ~6s And the setup that is almost complete.... L28 Turbo Heads ie:N42 8.4:1 Cam:L28E Carbs(or injection):L28E N/A EFI, SK's J-pipe. exhaust: 2.5" Stainless Mandrel ignition:the same dizzy as above.... Pistons: std L28E Other info:VG30 T3, T4 Compressor, 6psi, AiResearch Intercooler. What's lag? full-boost ~2000rpm.... Modified 3-speed auto, modified 4-speed auto. 3.54:1 open R180, 3.9:1 open R180, 4.375:1 LSD R200 ~115kW with 3.9:1 R180 & 3-speed. ~105kW with 3.54:1 R180 & 4-speed. We'll see what it's like with the bigger intercooler, exhaust & 4.375:1 LSD (This engine had been run in my Skyline for a few years & is being transplanted into my Z) Yes I'm still building my 3.1L TT engine: http://www.versadev.com/ben/twinmanifold.jpg Out of date image of my Z @ http://www.versadev.com/ben/DSC01398.JPG

Top effort Gee!!!!

There are at least 4 different SR20 blocks. The AWD RNN14 GTiR SR20DET is completely different in head & block layout to the RWD engines used in the S13/S14/S15 & the FWD engine used in the atmo N14 chassis. And these engines are all different to the AWD turbo engine used in the U12 & U13 Bluebird. It is not practical to fit the quad throttles to the RWD SR20 due to these differences. However, fitting an S13/S14/S15 SR20DET into a Z works as far as layout is concerned. In some cases, these engines can cause a troublesome installation due to the non-adjustable sump construction (cast aluminium). I can confirm that there is plenty of power in a stock GTiR engine, as my sister owns one....

Get yourself a copy of Ad-Aware from http://lavasoft.element5.com/support/download/ Take it from there.

Royce: A good point about the A series boxes. I shoud have clarified that only the 5-speed A series' used the flange output (and incidentally the 240Z's they were fitted to had a 2-piece tailshaft). All the short 4-speeds (510/610) and long 4-speeds (US Z) have a yoke output. Another thing to note is that all the yokes are the same throughout the gearboxes (A, B & C). Along with the 3-speed auto's. But the 4-speed auto's (4N71B) have a larger output shaft. Gee: Remove the gearstick & check it out. Z-Kid is 100% accurate in his probable causes for sloppiness.

The internal construction of gearboxes is something that I try to avoid. I'll do electrical and engine work without a thought, but I'll leave rebulding a gearbox to others.... There are lots of improvements between the series' of boxes (as you would expect with development). I do recall that the 'Porsche' syncro's are a superior design, but don't cope with the higher power output that some people like their engines to produce....:classic: Internal componetry for the boxes is still available, including shift forks & gears. Gav, if you are having trouble getting parts for yours (and haven't had luck with Nissan). Contact Peter Hall @ Hall Racing Enterprises here in Adelaide 08 8389 6635. He wil also slot a Hollinger gearset into the box if you so desire.... Somehow I don't think that the FS6R31A will fit without a major adapter being fabricated (give it time though). I wonder what the 'R' stands for?

We have been through this a few times before, and a search should yeild previous threads on the subject. However, in short; If you are familliar with the various shifter mechanisms of the Nissan gearboxes, you can work out the basic model designation. In stock trim, the gearboxes we are all familliar with are the FS4(5)C(W)71A( ok FS = Floor shift 4 or 5 = gears C or W = close or wide ratio 71A or B = variant The US 240Z's came with the FS4W71A, the early Euro/Jap/Aus 240Z's came with the FS5C71A. The late non-US 240Z's had the FS5C71B, and the 260/280Z(X)'s had the FS5W71B. These are general rules & do not define the exact gearsets used (of which there are many). As for identification: The A series boxes are like the 510/610/2000 Sports boxes. The shift is known as 'monkey-motion' and the gearstick is held in with a nut. The shift is also generally sloppy (wear). These boxes also have a flange output & a removable bellhousing. These gearboxes also use the Porsche-type synchros, which are expensive to fix. The B series boxes have a pin & circlip retainer for the shifter & provide a much tighter shift feel. They are also used in the 810, 910, C110, C210, R30 etc cars (basically anything between '72 & '85). These boxes use a more common (and cheaper) 'Borg-Warner' type synchro. The output is a slip-yoke (but I have seen 1 of these boxes with a flange output....) and the bellhousing extends back to a sandwich-plate (which is also where the extension housing attaches). Casting codes are non-existent, visual inspection will yeild the general model. Measurements will be required to determine exact ratios. From there you will need to query on these ratios as to which model used them (which is a detailed topic on its own). Note that I am not going into the 'option' close/ultra-close gearsets of which there are several. Nor am I going into the use of the FS5W71C gearbox, which has been made to fit L-engines. (This is the previous generation 5-speed, used behind the CA, SR & RB engines). External diff identification (R160/R180/R200/R230) straightforward (definately do a search on that one) and the only place that the ratio is marked is on the crownwheel. External ratio measurement is the easiest option. Hope this helps!

If you do a search on this site, you will find information from a previous thread regarding the legalities of putting an L28ET into a 240Z in SA. In short: I have got approval to put an L28ET (home-made) into my 240Z with the Hilux front calipers & R31 rear brakes. My car must be inspected before registration, but does not need an AIP or engineers report. Hopefully it'll be ready soon.... Having said that, you can put a blower onto a 240Z L24 with no reservations. You can also fit alternative pistons etc, so there is NO REASON why a hybrid L24 block specced out to 2.6, 2.7, 2.8 or whatever capacity will not be legal. (been there, done that too)

Very tight you say? From memory I'm not sure how they plan on installing the exhaust manifolds without cutting out the innder guards.... It's a 90 deg V8 with very wide heads! I think that the 4.0L Soarer/LS400 engine fits much better (is that a 90 deg engine?)