SteveJ

Will it run under load?

Do you have your internally regulated alternator already? If so, post pictures of it and any documentation that came with it.

Correct on both accounts.

While you wouldn't be able to just move one wire over, the 73 fuel pump wiring could be modified to use an oil pressure switch in a manner similar to what Dave did.

For safety reasons, if you wish to maintain an electric fuel pump, you should install an oil pressure switch in the circuit to energize the relay. I have another idea that incorporates other outputs from the alternator, but I haven't had time to test it. In a purely stock configuration, the voltage regulator plugs into a 6 pin connector. The electric fuel pump modification from Nissan added a short harness that goes between the alternator and voltage regulator. Simply removing that short harness would remove the power from the fuel pump relay.

Refer to these: Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars There is a good chance that when you took apart your turn signal switch, the rocker for the brake lights on the driver's side was displaced. On the image above, it is the rocker at the top. When you use your turn signal, the switch pushes the rocker away from the contact so that the rear light is part of the turn signal circuit instead of the brake light circuit. If the rocker does not resume contact, the light will not illuminate with the brakes. I hope this helps.

Well, if it's 4 AWG or larger it won't. This is where it is important to know the fuse curve. Instead of trying to explain it imperfectly, I'll post this link: http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Electrical/Resources/solution-center/technical_library/BUS_Ele_Tech_Lib_Time_Current_Curves_How_to_Read.pdf Basically, you might need 70A for inrush, but that is only for a short duration. I think a 20A fuse would work, but you would need 12AWG or larger wire for the circuit.

A multimeter is not necessarily that expensive, and it is a very valuable diagnostic tool.

Actually you just need to replace the fuse. Some people don't understand the reason for the dim headlight, so I explained why it happens in detail.

The procedure to check the sensors for the brake light warning starts on page EL-50. What were the voltages you read in performing steps 5 & 6?

The fuse for the left headlight is out, and the right headlight is backfeeding the left. If you search on this board, you can find my long explanation.

I like the covers from Blackdragon Auto with the velour inserts. IMHO they feel nicer when driving in the summer.

I managed to grab 2 hard copies. One stays in the car, and the other in my office.

Start by helping yourself. Download a copy of the factory service manual. You will find it at http://www.xenons130.com/reference.

If you want to bring your car over this weekend, we can try to get Betty to bitch again.

Eddie Murphy had some ideas: Talking Cars by Eddie Murphy

Oh, I'm aware of Bitching Betty. I just wasn't reading carefully.

First, download a copy of the FSM. Use the EL section for references. Check all of the connectors coming through the firewall into the passenger compartment. EL-112 shows the locations of the connectors. If all of the connections are good (colors match & inserted properly), verify you have 12 VDC on each side of your fusible links (provided the car is stock). Refer to EL-5 & EL-6. Next check your fuses by pulling them out one-by-one and measuring them with an ohmmeter. Finally, if you are close enough, I can come help.

Shows my memory isn't what it used to be.

This is a typo. It should have been 75-77. As Lenny stated, in 78, the ECU took over.

It does if you want the job to be right in the end.

Fat Cat Fabrication :: Home Used by at least one member here. Just ask Pete Thomas - aka Thomas461.

Haven't a clue. If only someone would spam this board with information...

My neighbor installed the bung for a wideband O2 sensor. Tomorrow or Thursday I will see what the air/fuel ratio is and try to get it closer to stoichiometric.

The fuel pump relay operation is dependent upon what year Z you have. 75-78 used the flap in the AFM to indicate the car was running. I cannot remember off the top of my head what provided the signal for the 78, but I'm sure one of the people better versed in that year will say something.