SteveJ

The coil and transistor unit are frequently culprits when having these kinds of problems. Carry a can of dusting air in your car. When it is hard to start, hold the can upside down and spray the transistor unit. The liquid coming from the can will hit the unit and vaporize quickly, cooling the unit. Try starting the car again. If it starts right up, you found your problem. You can do the same to the coil and ECU. Just try one at a time to ensure you isolate the problem.

Yikes! That's bad mojo. Do you have an ammeter or voltmeter? I believe you might have the ammeter. If so, you could have damaged that. Are you sure you made all of the connections properly when putting the dash back in?

The other set of fuses would be the fusible links (or fuses if someone did a maxi-fuse swap).

First guess is that you don't have something plugged back in properly. Look at the BE section of the 76 FSM. It gives breakouts of the different circuits, including the headlight circuit. It gives you a pretty good idea of how to trace the circuit. Do you have a multimeter, and do you know how to use it? If so, I can give you better diagnostics.

Nice fabrication to integrate the controls.

Mike McGinnis has them listed on his site: Banzai Motorworks.

You haven't supplied enough information to give a meaningful assessment. How long have you owned this car? Has the fuse always blown, or is this a recent occurrence? If it is recent, have you done anything to the car maintenance wise prior to the fuse blowing? Was the turn signal turned to the left or right when the fuse was blowing, or would the fuse blow with the switch in the center (off) position?

I haven't done it, but it's not that difficult. Following the FSM wiring diagram, you can see the wires that go to the ammeter. As you said, those wires must be joined together. Insulate your connection well, since you definitely don't want a dead short there. You will need a voltmeter/fuel gauge. From CarPartsManual.com, it looks like it will come from a 77 or 78. You may have to modify your dash harness and/or meter to get the same plugs on both sides. Run the negative side of the meter to ground. Run the positive side to a constant 12VDC or switched VDC, depending upon whether or not you want the gauge to be functioning when the power is on. A voltmeter has very high resistance, so the power draw is negligible.

Yes. I bought two sets from them this year.

Anywhere he wants to park them.

Subscribed so I can find this in the future. Nice work.

I'm located where I say I'm located. It's more of an issue of where YOU are located since "United States" is a pretty large area. The bumpers aren't perfect. I have some earlier bumpers that I'm going to put on eventually. They have 40 years of wear and evidence of some minor taps here and there. The car passed through many hands before I got it. I will take some pictures tomorrow and post them.

I will have one in the future, though it's far from perfect. However, shipping may be high.

Atlanta area Z owners: The first C & O of the year is just around the corner. Shopping is done. The presents have been opened. You made your returns. You have to work on January 6. Show up on January 5. Yes, it's early. It will probably still be dark when you get to the show if you want to park with the rest of us. Yes, it will probably be cold. Who cares? It's a great event. Period. End. Get directions at Caffeine and Octane Atlanta's Best Car Show If you get to the main lot before 7:30AM, there's a good chance I'll still have a spot for you.

Not mine, nor have I inspected it. 1972 Datsun 240z

Are you referring to a heater control panel like this: Heater control Panel for Datsun 240Z | DATSUN 240z | JDM CAR PARTS

Fender badges are still available through Nissan. 63805-E4601 for the badge & 63845-18000 for the clips (2 per badge). The tailgate 240Z badge is 90807-E4625 or 90807-E4602. The tailgate Datsun is 90806-E4601. Most of the tailgate badges are plastic anymore. I found a metal one in great shape on eBay sold by Emblems - Badges, Datsun 510 610 710 810 910 items in ukstar76 store on eBay!. He also has a couple of hardcopy parts manuals (handy for looking up parts to order from Nissan).

I don't think I would re-use a 40 year old spindle pin.

I'm sure if something were wrong with Mr. K, Mad Mike or someone else would have let us know.

Chas, it seems to fit well. It didn't seem to be touching the lens at all.

I think Carl has a good collection of information: General Discussion - Buying A Z Car: What To Watch For When Buying A Z Car Common Rust Area's Of The 240-Z Collectable, Classic, and Special Interest Z Cars; A Buyers Guide

Okay, I looked at mine. It's a BA9 base. I have a 9 LED bulb. I believe it is this one: BA9s LED Bulb - 9 LED Tower | BA15 Bayonet Base Bulbs | Boat/RV/Other LED Replacement Bulbs | Boat, RV, and Other Lighting | Super Bright LEDs. IMHO it does a good job of lighting up. Pictures never seem to do a light justice. The attached picture was taken with no other lights on in the garage.

I'll take a look in the next day or so about which LED bulb I installed in my inspection light.

You could get an LED light like this. It's a little pricey, but it'll probably be the last time you buy a bulb. They put out pretty good light, and if you forget to turn it off, it will take a long time before it runs down your battery.

Dang, you're about two years too late. Z Barn was in your neck of the woods. Unfortunately Roger sold his business. I don't know if the buyer set up shop, either. What year Z do you have? Did you break the tabs off the switch cover?