SteveJ

I was thinking you were going that way. What I did for someone else was wire a relay as described below. (See https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/22/relays-simplified/ for a reference on the pin numbers.) Red - Wire to pins 86 and 87. Red/white - Wire to pin 85. Wire pin 30 to the high beam indicator in the gauge. Here's a link to relays on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/awlbed-Replacements-Waterproof-Automotive-Accessories/dp/B0CP1ZYWJZ They do, and the schematic is online, too. However, Speedhut never had the wiring modified to be plug-and-play for the Z.

In case the Jims don't respond, I also posted in the Ozarks Z Club group on Facebook to see if they know of someone near you.

Jims? @S30Driver @Zup This is great opportunity for you guys to visit and give advice. This is in your neck of the woods.

Considering you haven't said what gauges you are using, there is no way to tell for certain.

Green (12VDC+) and green/yellow are for the brake warning light. Red and red/white are for the high beam indicator. (Right headlight circuit). Green/white is 12VDC+ for gauge lights. Red/blue goes to the rheostat (dimmer). Green/red (Yellow in the dash harness) goes to the BCDD cut solenoid. Black is ground.

It sounds like the car is going lean. Assuming you have the stock fuel injection, check the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. It may be rotten. If not, the FPR could be on the way out. Having a fuel pressure gauge might give you good info.

Yep, I put one of their tanks into my 73.

I'm thinking the spacer could be for the hazard switch on the back side of the dash. I don't recall seeing that spring before.

@jfa.series1

Correction. Look at the 1987, too. Left: Right: The 1986 calibers are the same, too.

According to Rockauto.com, 1988

Look at these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-19b979?srsltid=AfmBOorQHThiJTzimO6iRJqOhvJrTk6qA8SuHrOzdDx3mNdVlhMjM5fU https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-19b978?srsltid=AfmBOoph0mai3pzg2aMTQEZ4Nsv1qV5CBGEa_W2dgqT_Ks4aG4Kh3P8v

Post a photo of the caliper showing the mounting bracket.

What year Maxima?

I haven't seen anything in this thread that eliminates anything since it's mostly been shotgun diagnostics.

Scopes have become very affordable. https://www.amazon.com/CASE】3in1-Oscilloscope-Multimeter-Generator-Automotive/dp/B0D3LMPQY3 You would also need an attenuator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PHMLPV7 And it would be good to have an inductive lead so you can use the spark at a trigger (once you do get spark again). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CYS9F3L

It could be.

You can see the site using the internet wayback machine: https://web.archive.org/web/20180307072216/http://www.installapart.com/

There is a local place to rebuild boosters.

Maybe an oscilloscope even. I can detail some testing, but you'll need someone to turn the key while you measure.

Do you have the polarity correct on the coil?

Show how everything is wired with clear, detailed photos. How did you test the plug for no spark? What is the voltage on the coil with the key in ON? What is the gap and dwell on the points?

On the other hand, I have a friend who has been using the Fast EFI for years, and this is a 280Z that he drives to every ZCON and a few other events, such as Branson ZFest, every year. He puts more miles on his 280Z than I do in my daily and other cars combined.

For the red washer, you could use a phenolic washer like this. https://www.amazon.com/a15112300ux0387-2mmx4mmx0-5mm-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers What is the diameter of the hole?

It looked fine to me.