SteveJ

I saw on FB a couple of hours ago that he is on his way.

Well, I saw the Jim's today. We're still dotting the last couple of "I"s on convention prep tomorrow so we are ready for the flood on Tuesday.

The drives were $10 per car. As far as I know, the drives were sold out. I think there will be maps for self guided drives.

Have you thought about doing some that would fit Konig Rewinds? That might be popular.

Argh! A spring broke on the garage door today. The Z is trapped for now. The repairman should arrive between 4 & 8 today. I can't complain about that. It just delays my final prep on my car.

If you can get it on Monday or wait until Sunday. I'm thinking I'm going to be in crazy mode most of the week.

The problem is that the ZCON organizers have a spy somewhere around here...

I will be doing my best to do photos and hopefully video with regular posting.

You guys who aren't coming will definitely be missed. Branson is the 2019 location, and I believe it will be in Nashville for the 2020 edition. I will definitely be at Nashville. I just hope that they take a cue from us and schedule during cooler weather. It's no coincidence that the celebration of the 50th anniversary will be at HQ Nissan NA. Nissan supports the Z car. I'm not sure the North American market supports the Z car...Heck, aside from the pony cars, I'm not what the North American market supports in the way of sporty coupes.

Unless you install the sensor at a water passage, that temperature will probably exceed 185, so you would be running your fans more than you need to.

Worst case scenario is that I'll be staying across the street from the Sonesta if you want to work on the headlights.

Unless there is a tornado, I don't expect any adverse impacts on any of our selected venues from Michael. He's in a hurry to go somewhere, and we're not going to try to stop him around here to chat a while. The 10-day forecast keeps changing every time I look at it, so it's hard to tell how the end of the week will be for ZCON. Ironically the car show days are the only ones with rain in the forecast.

We're less than a week away from the start of ZCON 2018. Registration for the week will close on Friday, 10/12, at midnight Eastern Time. If you are only planning to go on Saturday for the People's Choice/ZNationals show, online registration will remain open for a couple of more days after that. Please note that while you can still pay at the gate for People's Choice/ZNationals, lunch is an additional charge above admission. I hope to see you in Atlanta...well, make that Duluth, Braselton, Dawsonville, Buford, and Lawrenceville. ? Go to http://zcon.org/conventions/2018/?page_id=132 to register before it's too late.

Someone more familiar with pipe threads than myself will have to confirm, but I don't know if the thermostat housing used any NPT fittings.

If it's not on here in the Downloads section (see the link in my signature), try http://www.xenonzcar.com.

To me, it looks like it's for adjusting the phase difference in the dual pickup distributor. I don't know what the page is for the 77 FSM, but I believe it's described on page EE-29 of the 76 FSM.

My first thought was the same as Zed Head's.

Does that mean you have your Z rigged up to drive under water?

What is the voltage at the alternator at idle? I have gone to LEDs and electronic flashers for my turn signals, so I don't have enough of a load to move the ammeter.

If your ammeter was non-functional, it would affect many systems in the car, including making where you had no power to the ignition. A jump start wouldn't solve the problem, either. For a 73 with the ZX alternator swap, you have to be careful that you don't have the electric fuel pump modification in your car. That modification added some wiring that includes providing power for the fuel pump relay coil. Leaving this wiring modification in place after swapping in the ZX alternator will cause the relay coil to be energized all of the time. That will run down your battery. Keep in mind that if your electrical system is good, you won't see the ammeter move hardly ever. The ammeter was moving with the turn signals before probably because the voltage at idle was low. The voltage dip from the lights lighting up meant that the battery had to prop up the electrical system momentarily. The ammeter measures the flow between the battery and the alternator. All but a couple of electrical components are wired to the alternator side of the ammeter. (I believe the brake lights and hazard lights are two exceptions. They will light up with a blown ammeter.)

When diodes go bad, it isn't pretty.

Mea culpa. I misread the wiring at the lamp. Based upon Zed Head's last post I looked again and realized my mistake. I thought the lamp had blue & black wires going to it. (That in itself confused me some because with the 260Z, blue was usually a wire that became grounded.) Instead, the lamp has blue & green wires going to it. That makes sense since green is usually a positive. I stand corrected, even though I'm sitting down right now. Now, I did a quick search, and I believe this link points me in the right direction. https://youronlinemechanic.com/alternator-with-neutral-point-voltage/ It says there is an AC component in the neutral voltage. You don't want to put a DC coil in an AC circuit...Er, I've heard that from a friend. If the AC component is high enough, it might smoke a regular DC coil. A diode in the circuit might help. This is all just speculating in this application. @Captain Obvious Maybe we should sneak over to my house during ZCON and hook my OScope up to the neutral and see what the waveform looks like.

I misread the drawing that Zed Head attached. I need to get more sleep. I looked at the 76 wiring drawing to fill in details. The neutral goes to a coil in the VR in the 76. When the potential on the neutral is higher than ground, the associated contact moves the blue wire (lamp) from in contact with ground to the white wire (12VDC+) and lights the charging lamp. (Unless I have something backwards from looking at drawings when I'm tired.) For the 74, the neutral goes to a coil in the VR and when the neutral has voltage with respect to ground, the associated contact grounds the black/yellow wire that goes to pin 12 on the Seatbelt Interlock unit. For the 240 wiring diagrams, the VR is shown as a black box, so I don't have a ready description of what all it does in that application, though I think I have a 240Z VR lurking around unused in my garage.

The neutral should be bonded to the ground. So it is at zero volts with respect to ground. If the neutral is not bonded, that can cause problems like a floating reference if the alternator is turning.

Yes, you do. Mountain Dew & Diet Dew are the only socially acceptable P-word company drinks. Otherwise enjoy the fine products of the Coca Cola family. True story - I used to travel up to Canada on business, but Diet Dew was not available in the Toronto area at the time. I would fly into Buffalo, rent my car, fill up on Diet Dew at the grocery store, and go across the border. If I ran low, sometimes co-workers smuggled more across the border. Civilization was slow getting to that land up North.