SteveJ

If the old threads are shot, use a helicoil. Some well-respected members made that suggestion to me when I had an issue with the door striker plate. It was almost too easy of a fix, and you won't have to worry about using a larger bolt size.

Don't miss out on the best pricing for ZCON 2018 registration. Early Bird pricing ends at midnight Eastern Time tonight (June 8). We're looking forward to all y'all making it out here.

I'm looking forward to hosting you guys in my neck of the woods, too.

Here is my Friday recap on the 2018 Mitty. Be sure to look for the links to the Google Photos album at the end of the post in order to enjoy all of the photos. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2018/06/03/the-mitty-2018-friday/

Early Bird Registration for ZCON 2018 ends at midnight on June 8. Register now before prices go up and to make sure you get in on the events you want to experience. The convention dates are October 16-20. Some of the things we are planning: ZCCA Judged Car Show Brewery Night at Sweetwater Brewery. Yes, you will be able to sample their products. Autocross at Atlanta Motorsports Park Go Karts at Atlanta Motorsports Park (Imagine a karting track with elevation changes of over 40 feet and speeds around 55 MPH.) Charity cruises through the North Georgia Mountains. Track Day at Road Atlanta (We're also planning an aerial photo of our cars in the shape of a Z to commemorate the photo the organizers took at the 1995 ZCON in Atlanta.) People's Choice Car Show Plus we have Yoshihiko Matsuo, Designer of the 240Z; Toshio Yamashita, Designer of the Z32; and Peter Brock and John Morton of BRE fame. Here's a link to find a room at the host hotel: http://zcon.org/conventions/2018/?page_id=134 Go to http://zcon.org/conventions/2018/?page_id=132 and click on the ZCON 2018 Registration button.

That's a good enough reason. I was hoping there wasn't a glaring defect in the car. For me, the wife already said no.

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/1973-datsun-240z/6598446035.html

At least it was dry for the entire weekend. All of the rain happened during the week.

No, Roger sold everything off many years ago.

I went with LEDs a few years back. No problems for me. I also did all of the parking lights and turn signals. If you do all of the lights as LEDs, you'll need electronic flashers for the turn signals and hazard lights.

I'm finally catching up enough at work to start blog posts on the 2018 Mitty. Here is the first installment. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2018/05/28/tuesday-and-wednesday-before-the-2018-mitty/

Take a picture of the hazard light switch. Unique 73 interior items include a backlit heater control panel and a pull switch for the hazard lights.

Contact https://vintagezparts.com/. He has dismantled a lot of Z31s. He might be interested, and he is in NC.

I have the driver side 73 out. I'll try to remember to take a photo.

For the turn signal switch, this may help. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

Welcome to the forum. I see you're in my neck of the woods. I'd appreciate it if I could come by some time.

Thanks for posting the links.

On Figure BE-2, it is identified as "Switch Element". Yellow/red tends to be power for gauges. The only yellow wires I could find were from the fuel gauge to the fuel sending unit and from the intermittent wiper relay to the wiper motor. Unfortunately while all of my answers are accurate, they don't do much to provide you with the information you're really looking for.

Is it a three wire connector? Confirm wire colors. It looks like white/red, white and black. Wire colors and connectors are everything when you are asking these kinds of questions. Edit: In blowing up the picture, I see that I confused a shadow for a black wire.

I could look at another spare gauge, but that won't be until next weekend at the earliest.

It's probably the same part number as for the 260Z. When I had one of those apart, I did not notice a mechanical adjustment, but I wasn't looking closely at it. It's not too difficult to remove, open the case, and inspect if you want to, provided you don't have factory AC in the car.

I got plenty of photos of the two of you on the track. I felt bad for Andy when I saw the right side had been severely pancaked. I'll eventually get links up to the photos.

You'll need a pin removal (extractor) tool. However, I don't know which one you need for the round connectors. Edit: This one gives you options: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56500-Terminal-Tool/dp/B0009OR906 2d Edit: Just search for pin removal tool at Amazon under automotive. There are a lot of choices like this (https://www.amazon.com/ILamourCar【11PCS】Auto-Terminal-Electrical-Connector-Extractor/dp/B07B2P7D7L) and this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KLM6R9/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2708083022714283574)

Quick reference: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/door-lock-regulator-handle If you are missing part of the lock, the door lock part numbers for your car are 80502-N4420 Right 80503-N4420 Left

That is not a separate part. It is a component of the door lock. It's the same part number for the 77 and 78, but the 2+2 uses a different part.