SteveJ

So did the wires on the 9 pin connector in the dash. I'm planning on de-rating the fuse on that circuit. I'd rather blow a fuse than burn up the wiring harness.

The other night I was driving home in the dark when I noticed my the lighting for the gauges starting to fail. Soon, all I had left was the lighting on the speedometer, and it failed shortly after that. Fortunately I had a GPS unit running, so I could monitor my speed, but I was filled with dread thinking that my parking lights also went out. I checked the fuse and found it blown. I replaced it, but still no lights. I checked the connector in the steering column. It had suffered heat damage. (Note: The wires are not sized for a 20A fuse.) I replaced the connector (Thank you, Vintage Connections!) and tested. The ammeter I had on the battery was running over 20 A. I quickly shut off the switch. I looked for corrosion in the front side markers. They were fine. I returned to looking at the dash lights. I noticed the current was normal after removing the speedometer. I tested the wiring on the speedometer for a short. There were no shorts. I finally checked the GW & RL wires in the dash harness. The resistance was way too low. I unplugged all of the gauges, and no change. After looking at the FSM for other ideas, I unplugged the hazard switch. (The hazard switch in the 74 has a light.) The short went away. I pulled the switch out and found the cause. When the RL wire came loose from the light, it made contact with the other wire. When the speedometer was plugged in, the RL wire was then connected to ground, completing the path for the short. That only took 3 hours to find.

From the 72 FSM BE section.

I received a message from a friend today. He sent me this picture asking if it was my car. It got featured in coverage of The Mitty in 2016.

I sent you a PM on the subject.

Only because I was looking for links to a better synchrometer than a Unisyn. Jeez, get with the program and use a flow-through meter.

Look at vendors on my website http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com Many of them have Christmas gift ideas (MotorSport Auto and ZCarDepot to name a couple). MSA has a fender cover with a Z emblem. A good timing light and a good multimeter are very useful. This multimeter can also be used as a tachometer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U3HFFH. That can be useful for tuning. Also a carburetor synchrometer is a must for the old SU carburetors: https://www.google.com/search?q=dellorto+syncrometer&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjj4fnXu4_YAhVK4IMKHZVpDLwQ_AUICigB&biw=1920&bih=949. Finally, videos from Z Therapy ( @Bruce Palmer) can help him keep his Z running in top shape. Don't forget feeler gauges for valve adjustments.

What I did was to build a bench that was about the height of the door sill. I could lie on my back and reach up to get those nuts. It was much more comfortable that way.

Leonard Nimoy did it best, IMHO. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAPoNXrWNMc

That's in my neck of the woods. How about that? I'll have to remember that one.

Well, when we were transporting my new engine around, we used an old racing tire and strapped the engine down to the sides of the pickup bed.

That is correct.

Coolant goes through the extra holes.

The OP is looking for a part on the intake manifold. For more information, look here:

So does that mean you don't need the spare tire?

Yes, it's still snowing in my neck of the woods. I'll have to shovel my driveway and front walk since they aren't in the sun. Otherwise, almost all of it will be gone by Monday.

24 Hours of Lemons is at Road Atlanta this weekend, too. Not a good weekend for endurance racing in the South.

When I mounted an early 240Z bumper on my 73, I just had to get the early mounting brackets. They are available. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/32-1060 You'll also need spacers on the sides of the bumpers. I just found rubber bumpers on McMaster and trimmed them to the thickness I needed. More info here: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2014/01/20/installing-the-front-bumper/

By the way, there are several different part numbers flat top carburetors for the North American market. Some were used on the 240Z, and the others were on the 260Z. I cannot attest to the differences between the part numbers.

How about the Nissan factory parts manuals for North America? They clearly show the 3 types of carburetors and the timeframe of usage: 4 screw - through the 71 model year (ending Aug 71) 3 screw - for 72 only (Sep 71 to Jun 72) Flat top - for 73 Jun 72 to Aug If you don't have a copy of the factory parts manual, you can order an electronic version from the store on this website. Proceeds go to support the site.

Thank you for letting us know, Mike. R.I.P. Victor

I was thinking that a bad battery could deceive in diagnostics. Fortunately that was the case. Been there, done that, and wasted several hours tearing apart things until I realized I went down the wrong rabbit hole. (It was a bad battery.) Usually people who sound like they know what they are doing are educated by learning from all of their prior, painful mistakes. I am living proof.

The parts manual lists a cold weather 60A alternator with part numbers 23100-N3302 and 23100-N3303. I doubt you'll find rebuilt versions of these in American part stores. You're more likely to find a rebuilt version of 23100-P3006. This is the internally regulated alternator. So do any of our Canadian brethren have a cold weather alternator? They would have been in a 73-77 model year car.

I'm glad it just seems to be a bad battery that caused your problems.

The 60A model is likely internally regulated. If the OP installs it without jumpering out the external voltage regulator, he would be introducing a new set of problems.