SteveJ

It's worthwhile because it's for you guys.

Here's a video of some members of the planning committee hard at work, verifying that the go karts at Lanier Raceplex are suitable for ZCON attendees. We are doing our best to leave no detail to chance.

Chris Karl, ZCCA President, and several of us from the planning committee visited some of the convention sites, yesterday, including the Sonesta Hotel, Coolray Field (planned site for the People's Choice show), Road Atlanta (track day), Lanier Raceplex (planned site for Autocross & Karting) and Sweetwater Brewery. We met with the event planners at the hotel and toured it extensively. I did bring up trailer parking, and that was included in the tour. The hotel has open air parking and a parking garage. There will be regular security patrols and video surveillance. Here's a map of the hotel site showing the parking areas. It is very near I-85. Coming from the north, you make a left off of I-85 onto Pleasant Hill Rd. From the south, you make a right onto Pleasant Hill Rd. Note: this is a diverging diamond interchange, meaning the lanes on Pleasant Hill Rd cross over. It can be a little confusing the first time you encounter it. If you are bringing a trailer, make a right off of Pleasant Hill Rd onto Shackleford Rd and a left into the hotel parking lot. That's also the way to go if you want to use the parking garage.

Are you measuring voltage to ground at each link? All of the white wires are connected together. Therefore if one has voltage, they ALL should have voltage. If you didn't have voltage on #2 at the white/red wire until after you turned on the car, that means that the fusible link is bad, and something is backfeeding the circuit. Edit: By the way #2 is the link to the fuel pump power.

Based upon the diagram I posted, can you indicate where you didn't have 12 VDC?

Okay, that's the same as the map light, too.

Can you get a clear photo of where your timing mark is and post it? You should easily be able to get more than 8 degrees timed in. As a matter of fact, post several photos of the engine bay with many around the distributor. Bandwidth is cheap. Otherwise, make plans to come out to the Mitty at Road Atlanta in April. I'm sure I could find more than one person I would trust who could tell you what's going on with your car.

We like to say that the distributor can only be installed one way, but I have seen on more than one occasion where someone managed to install the distributor 180 degrees out. Don't ask me how it was done. I only know that some people can do it.

Please put the year of your car with your posts. That makes it easier to find the correct answer. Assuming you are referring to a 260Z, those are probably BA7 bulbs. BA7 bulbs are more common in motorcycle applications. These are low power bulbs and don't go out often. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_ItemCondition=3&_nkw=BA7+bulbs&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sop=15 If your bulb is different, please post a photo for easier identification. Once I fixed the socket shown in the photo, I replaced the bulb with an LED BA7. The LED is very bright. You'll most likely want to stay with the incandescent bulb.

You may see improvement in the wipers by cleaning and lubricating the linkage. If you do that, test the wipers BEFORE putting the cowl back on since it's easy to install wrong. (Been there, done that, have the marks on my cowl to prove it.)

So THAT'S where it went. I've been looking for my socket.

The electric fuel pump is essentially a helper pump. It's only running after the car has started. Have you replaced all of the soft fuel lines under the hood and going back to the tank? Old hoses crack and let in air. The symptoms would be similar to what you described. It could also be a mechanical fuel pump with a damaged diaphragm. If you have replaced the soft lines, I suggest changing the mechanical fuel pump out. There are several choices for mechanical fuel pumps at Rockauto at $35 and less with similar parts & prices at Amazon, so it's not a big expense. I can probably come up to see you in a couple of weeks to give you some suggestions about sorting things out on your car, too.

You are close. All 5 (6?) should have constant power.

Try my way first. If you jump out the ignition switch, you could have issues if you need to kill the engine quickly. You might get away with that, but it's not something I would do personally. When you are doing this test, I would expect to see some voltage drop while starting. The starter motor pulls some good current, so that can cause a drop of a volt or two, especially if the battery is older. If you lose voltage at the coil when starting (drop to near zero), that would indicate an issue with the switch. Jumper wires are a poor substitute for good testing.

You checked for voltage at the coil with the ignition switch in the ON position. Did you also test for voltage at the coil with someone holding the ignition switch in the START position? If you lose voltage then, the car won't start.

If you can't maintain a draw through the pump, consider two things You have a bad fuel line that is letting in air. You have a bad fuel pump. Also, are you sure you don't also have an electric fuel pump at the gas tank? That was fitted to a lot of 73s.

Okay, now that I'm at home, I can see you're about an hour and a half away.

Where in North Georgia? Help may not be that far away, right @Patcon?

I have used a floor jack in the past to compress the suspension enough to get the end link. In that case, the car was on jackstands, and I used the floor jack under the tire to do the trick.

To test the Ignition Switch: With the key in the ON position, use a test light. Clip it to a good ground, such as one of the bolts on the strut tower and touch the other end of the test light to the positive terminal of the coil, where the black/white wire lands. It should light up. Repeat the test but have someone manipulate the switch and try to start the car while you hold the test light in place. The test light should still light up. The good thing is that if the switch is bad, you can replace the back of it where the contacts reside. Rockauto has the part. You will probably need to remove the switch from the car to replace it. That can be a little challenging.

In looking for the answer about a "child" registration, in the past, the registration website called out that the child registration was for 12 and under. I will ask to have that clarified.

I sent a message to the organizing group about track day and autocross with respect to age. When you say "love to make laps", are you referring to one of those events? By the way, in addition to the karting event at Lanier Raceplex, I was thinking about seeing if a group wanted to go to K1 Speed on Wednesday night for those not going to the brewery night. Aside from brewery night and the HPDE track day, I don't really see anything where Cody couldn't attend. Edit: To clarify, I don't know if Cody could drive in the HPDE, but he could certainly hang out at the track. That's what I plan on doing if I can.

No drawbacks to having Shelley as your guest that I'm aware of. What events does Cody want to participate in? Brewery Night? If he wants to do karting at Lanier Raceplex, you or Shelley must sign his life away. (See the waiver forms at this link: http://lanierraceplex.com/about/) Other than Brewery Night, Cody should be able to go to the events. Were you thinking of him doing Autocross? I'm assuming he's not going to try to track the 510 wagon. It's free to observe/hang out at track day and autocross. If there are specific event questions, let me know.

I just wanted to make sure you guys know that the pricing on the registration site is for early registration. You need to register by March 15 to take advantage of those prices.

I think from the fuel rail to the carburetors may be 1/4" or 6 mm. I would think the fuel line between the hard lines and fuel pumps would be 8 mm since 5/16" fits nicely. I would think 10 mm (3/8") would be too loose. That is only my opinion since I didn't look it up in the FSM.