SteveJ

He said, "The blocks themselves work fine, however, I am going to cut a groove in four of them to simulate the pinch weld blocks. I don't believe it is necessary to spend extra money for something that you can do yourself."

I also looked through the parts catalog to see if it might give a clue on the location. No luck there.

On the 73, the accessory relay that supplies power for the blower motor is on the passenger side kick panel. I can't say that the 72 has it in the same place.

What year wiring diagram were you looking at? Where did you find the wiring diagram? The 72 FSM wiring diagram omits the heater blower. The 73 FSM shows it.

@Mike Chris Karl responded on FB. The link on the affiliate clubs is the way to go.

I just heard back from my friend. He does have the QJ 5000. He said that the wheel clearance is tight, but if you position it toward the rear wheels, it clears fine.

Okay, I started a FB message with you and Chris. He is usually pretty good about responding, and you can find out what it takes. Of course, I could have just started out by looking at the ZCCA website. I found this: http://zcca.org/club-membership/affiliate-clubs/

I sent a text to my friend about the exact make/model he has. I know he has working on more than one Z using it. He was also thinking about bringing it out to Road Atlanta to raise a 280ZX race car that needed a replacement rear seal.

Have you tried to get the ZCCA to recognize Classic ZCar Club as a club? The clubs listed are members of the ZCCA. If you would like, I can put you in touch with Chris Karl. He's used to me bugging him about such things.

Trailer parking usually is an issue. Dang trailer queens...

An oscillating multi-tool can be a reasonable alternative for those of us on a smaller budget. I used one to cut through the exhaust pipe on my Z when I was converting over to headers. Of course, that was a corded tool. I haven't looked for a cordless version, yet.

Have you looked at http://zcon.org/ lately?

This may help you. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/

A friend of mine who regularly works on S30s has one of these, and he loves it.

This may help: https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/76816-oil-pan-removal-280z.html

I think you missed the note that the lien holder is the Georgia Telco Credit Union.

One person on FB suggested that it might have been documentation for the finance department, as in the customer gets the top half, and the bottom half gets processed at the dealership.

I posted the image in the Georgia Z Club group to see if someone might be able to shed some light on the subject.

I drove the Z to Road Atlanta today to watch testing for the Mitty. Here's a link to my favorite photos from today: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xZnwaKkdb6aKxSFq7

Well, his kids are home-schooled, and his wife is a pretty tough teacher, so that's not a given.

Well, from my engineering background, I can tell you that P=I^2xR. And as usual, an engineer provides a completely correct answer that doesn't help you resolve the situation at all.

For the fuel pump, the power from the coil is tapped off the yellow wire between the alternator and voltage regulator. I suggest that if you wire a switched source for the fuel pump coil, you also include an inertia switch in the circuit to kill power in case of an accident. The ignition interlock unit uses the black/yellow wire coming off the voltage regulator. When the engine is stopped, it provides a ground for part of the "black box" operation of the unit. Of course, it's a challenge to find a 260Z where the seat belt interlock hasn't been bypassed. Anyway, the VR is providing a path to ground for the unit in addition to the chassis ground that goes to the unit. I'm not sure what would happen if you grounded that wire all of the time. In the FSM it is described as the Engine revolution sensor. See page BE-97. Depending upon the alternator you are using as a replacement, I could probably describe a work around.

I'm guessing it utilizes two floor jacks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RETRO-CLASSIC-VINTAGE-RACING-BUCKET-SEATS-BLACK-PVC-MICROSUEDE-W-SLIDERS-PAIR/123461825398?hash=item1cbee5f376:g:39cAAOSwQGhbIB69:sc:UPSGround!48083!US!-1

There should be a ground in the back, on the passenger side, near the taillights. Look for a black wire. You'll need to pull off the back trim panel to find the wiring harness. Look at the mechanical connection and make sure there is not corrosion that would inhibit current flow.