SteveJ

I'm planning on being there...provided I can sort out the fuel injection by then...

I might know a thing or two about the electrical system if you need help sometime...

License plate lamp housing. All of the ones I have found used have been warped all to heck.

@MikeI would agree that's a spammer in waiting.

The strange thing is that the same username is over at Zcar.com with similar types of posts: https://www.zcar.com/search.php?searchid=50972

Why would you put the fusible link between the circuit and ground? Now go back and check post #2. Go to Blue's collection of tech tips for the wiring diagram or search here for a color copy of the wiring diagram.

Keep this in mind. The stock lighting circuit has 1 positive and 2 paths to ground. Most cars have 2 positives and 1 ground. The "D" in LED is for diode. It will only allow current to flow one way. Unless the LED headlight is specially wired for the 1 positive and two paths to ground, it will not work properly. Even more than with the LEDs, the halogen bulbs need full battery voltage to achieve designed brightness.

I didn't post about Day 4 since I didn't take any new photos. Today was Day 5 - The TPS Report. Mounting the TPS bracket was a challenge. First, there are two vacuum ports on the N36 intake that the bracket does not account for. Next, it didn't matter because there is a lip on the intake where the carburetor mounts that prevents the TPS mounting bracket from aligning with the throttle linkage. Oh well, I expected to have to make some modifications. It was a shame to have to cut into that nice bracket. However, everything lines up now.

That's supply & demand for you.

So, if you're concerned about grounds, check for continuity from wire 74 to ground. You'll find this wire at the EFI relay. It should be on one of the middle pins on the 6 wire connector. The coil on the EFI relay is energized off the white/black wire from the ignition relay (make sure the ignition relay is good). For testing, you could put jumpers on the engine harness at the EFI relay as I have shown in red. For safety, keep the fusible link unplugged until you are ready to test. As for the tachometer, depending upon how you (or the PO) wired in the HEI to replace the TIU, you may have removed the trigger signal for the tach.

Just keep in mind that the picture @siteunseen posted is for a later car where the front brake circuit is closer to the booster. Otherwise, the bleed screws are shown correctly. What a bargain! https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/brake-master-cylinder-oem-46010-e4602-datsun-240z-260z-280z-1970-1971/

The hazard switch interrupts the brake light circuit and the turn signal circuit. That is why it has 8 connections.

Good point, sir. I forgot to bring that up. Yes, it is a challenge, but you can get the bulb in the socket wrong. As Egon said in the movie Ghostbusters, "Don't cross the streams."

Okay, the page has been updated with Day 3 activities. I figured out how to do AN fittings today. It's hard to believe that I'm the same person as the idiot who couldn't do it yesterday. I also hit a minor stumbling block in that the fuel pressure gauge has a 1/4" NPT fitting. I couldn't find an AN connector with a fuel pressure gauge port larger than 1/8" NPT (and I already have one of those), so I ended up ordering another fuel pressure gauge that has the same range as the one supplied by Rick but with the 1/8" NPT fitting.

Incorrect. There are also dual filament bulbs in the front for the turn signal/marker lights.

Yes, because you are backfeeding the circuit.

Most likely you have a single filament bulb in a dual bulb socket somewhere. That I why I asked you to take pictures of all of the insides of the sockets and base of the bulbs.

I designed and fabricated the heat shield. It is aluminum with "Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier" (can be found on Amazon). After I installed headers, I found a lot of heat coming up between the carburetors with the stock heat shield. This heat shield dropped the temperature between the carburetors by about 100 degrees F.

So today was more frustration than success. That's how these projects can go sometimes. I determined that I do NOT like how the fuel pump supplied with the kit would be situated in the stock mounting location. I put a 280Z fuel pump on order to remedy that. I also found that I have no natural talent for installing AN fittings on braided lines. At least I have the injectors mounted in the throttle bodies, and the throttle bodies are in the car. Read the details here: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/fuel-injection-patton-machine

And I have finally started, albeit slowly. I removed the domes and fuel bowls from the carburetors and installed the fuel injector adapter plates. For more details, here's a link to my blog: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/fuel-injection-patton-machine/

I'm taking the week off from work, so I started on the fuel injection conversion for the 260Z. I'm taking it slow at first. Today was just getting the carburetors fitted with the fuel injector adapter plates.

You guys are the best little brother a superpower could have.

Have some cake to celebrate!

Right back at you, Philip.

It is best to have all the grounds in place for testing electrical circuits.