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Zmigraine

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About Zmigraine

  • Rank
    New Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Perry, Georgia
  • Occupation
    Veteran

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1978 280z, white some rust, currently not running

    1977 280z, parts car, engine donor

    1977 Datsun 620, grey, mid engine swap

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  1. So I took some time to do some research. Put in my best ignition relay(the stock one in good condition) and even bought a new injector or two. That’s all beside my main point though. I switched to a different efi relay to check to see if there would be any changes. The results are as follows. Out of 12.56 volts across multiple electrical points in the car, the power to the injectors sits at .62 across the board. It spikes to .67 when the car is cranking but that’s it. Is this a sign of a burnt out efi coil? I’ve gone from nothing to very little voltage so I’ve gotten somewhere at least. Also, is there a diagram showing the FI fusible link connection to the battery? There has been multiple hands in the pot here, most of which like electronics less than myself. I’m starting to wonder if that fusible link should come from the positive or negative.
  2. I'm currently dealing with not having power at any of my injectors. I've been using the 78' FSM to help me diagnose this issue. To support the findings I tested for continuity on the 35 pin connector based on the prescribed tests in the FSM. There was really nothing of note besides not having power after the 10 pin (powerline circuit). I'm starting to wonder if there's a ground that's missing. All of the grounding points in the engine bay check out though. as far as i know, I have spark (running a GM hei instead of the TIU), I have been running the original style fuel pump but have an aftermarket one as well. All my fusible links have been replaced with Maxifuse blocks. My relays seem to be in good working order ( does anyone know if Nissan still sell the replacement ignition relay) The car will start on starter fluid but i did notice that the tach does not move at all. Background: I have two 280's, one black and one white. The black one was the donor vehicle as i deemed the rust situation and previous fender bender to be more than i cared for. It was an automatic. At the time we got its engine to run while up on stands. The other is white with a 5speed. I assume it was a swap due to not having a 5speed badge. This car was saved from a local scrap yard along with some choice parts out of a green all original 76 that had seen better days. We swapped the engine from the donor vehicle to the white one and it no longer seems to want to work. fuel wise anyway. Any thoughts and suggestions will be appreciated.
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