SteveJ

Take a can of air with you when you drive. If the car dies, hold the can upside down and spray the module. If it comes back to life quickly, you have your answer.

Interesting. It either wasn't behind a paywall when I was at work or there is something about my workplace domain that allows me to get through the paywall.

https://www.google.com/search?q=When+Datsun+Met+Corvette%2C+Sparks+Flew&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS814US814&oq=When+Datsun+Met+Corvette%2C+Sparks+Flew&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l2&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 ?

So I took a little time tonight and installed the idle air control valve. It's getting crowded on top of the intake manifold now. On the bright side, I don't have to pull up on the choke handle to let extra air through at cold idle.

After taking the car on a trip and hearing a LOT of pinging on acceleration, I decided to check the timing. It was WAY too far advanced (like near 30 degrees). I dialed it back to 15 and took it for a drive. The pinging was gone. I still need to do some data logging, but the car drives very nice now.

It's in Randy's possession. He is thinking of restoring it.

I took my 260Z on its first outing since installing the fuel injection. I need to adjust the timing, but it drove nice. I was joined at Caffeine and Chrome by @Tirnipgreen and a couple of other Z car friends. One of those friends decided to drive his Skyline. My Z isn't a bad background for it, I think.

Not in the US model year notation.

Something doesn't line up here. A 1991 Z32 would be in the second year of production. A VIN ending in 00008 would more likely be a 1990 car.

Just to be clear (no pun intended), is this the Vintage Glass you are doing business with, Jim? https://www.vintageglass.com/

If you're testing for continuity, use the lowest setting.

What's the price? It appears that they have a location about an hour from me.

I take it that you mean that you have a reading of 1 when the probes are touched together. That isn't necessarily a problem. Often you can see the resistance change just by changing the amount of pressure you are using to hold the probes against one another. Also the quality of the leads and build quality of the meter can cause some small resistance. My old Fluke meter reads 0.3 Ohms with the leads held firmly against one another. I just account for that in my readings. Analog multimeters have a Zero Adjust for the needle when measuring resistance. If you don't trust your meter, consider getting a Fluke 116 or 117. The Fluke 115 is cheaper, but it doesn't have the capability of the others. The 116 is nice in that it also comes with a thermocouple for temperature measurements. What are you trying to check on your fuel injection?

Okay, so who sells the shirt? I'm on it.

If you could use the correct rotation on your TPS, that would be greeaaaattt. The new TPS arrived today. First thing after unwrapping was to make sure it rotated in the correct direction. It was a snug fit, and it rotated in the proper direction. I re-installed the throttle shaft and attached the new TPS. I fired up the computer and got a good rough adjustment. I fired up the car, and it was no longer running rich. It was time to take it for a drive. The car runs more quietly with the fuel injection (an observation I attribute to the lack of tuning skill on the SUs, especially compared to someone like @240260280). Throttle response was smooth. There is still tuning and datalogging to do, but I do have a fully functional 260Z again.

Look at the comments: https://japanesenostalgiccar.com/activision-enduro-datsun-280zx-pace-car-contest/

By "shell" did it still have a factory wiring harness? What was the source for the relay mod swap? Do your wipers come on with the wiper switch? Symptoms that manifested from removing and re-installing the turn signal switch could indicate grounding issues. In general it sounds as though you may have multiple wiring issues. The nice thing is that the factory service manual has breakouts for individual circuits in the BE section that aid in diagnosing issues. You can go to the Downloads in Resources to download a copy of the FSM.

So it is an electrical issue. Supply some more history. How long have you owned the car? How often do you drive it? Has the car even been flooded? Did you (or someone else) do any work on the car between the time the headlights worked properly and they didn't? Can you take the cover off of the steering column and provide some decent quality photos of the wiring harness coming up to the switches?

Will the headlights turn on with the ignition in OFF? If so, it's a mechanical issue with the switch.

I removed the fuel lines when I dropped the tank to remove the bumper mounts, but of course, they were old, brittle and ready to be replaced.

https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6644319 sold by @nix240z

So I believe the TPS does not rotate in the proper direction for the Z. I had my suspicions, and the data confirmed it. I was trying to figure out whether to order a clockwise or counterclockwise TPS, and I finally noticed the tiny letters on my current TPS: CW. I have a CCW TPS on order now.

Okay, so new plugs and ignition module...Not much changed. Got home - plugs looked perfect. So when all else fails, plug in the computer. (I'm liking that aspect of this swap.) Once I got the USB configured properly (and remembering how to configure things in Windows 7), I tried to start the car...Nothing. Oh yeah, reconnect the plug wires. Start the car and watch the data come in...Oops, configured for the wrong ECU. Set the program for the right ECU and watch the data. Coolant temperature seems spot-on. O2? I'm not sure, yet. TPS...Hmm, it seems way too high. Yep, there's the code. So, I'm going to check my TPS settings against the Patton Machine website and test some more.

I have a spare ignition module that I can swap in.

I re-routed the fuel rail today, so it is protected by the heat shield. I took it for a test drive this evening. It behaves better, but there are times that it feels like it it not firing the injectors (enough). It will feel dead (unresponsive to throttle input), but it would kick back to life. I plan on trying to datalog some driving tomorrow to see if that will reveal more information on what is going on. I pulled the plugs. They look a little dark to me, but I am thinking about installing new plugs before testing tomorrow. 6-5 4-3 2-1