SteveJ

His car has stalled without restart except with starting fluid (knowledge of his problem from outside this forum). From how he has described it to me, I lean toward a fuel pick-up problem.

https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/

It depends. Do you have a dash cap on the dash? If not, you should be able to pull the tach easily.

You may have swapped the lights on the gauge.

Does the dash indicator match the outside turn signal? Dim headlight usually means a blown headlight fuse. The left headlight is the top right fuse.

I was very pleased with how well my solution worked. I don't do a lot fabricating, so I was flying by the seat of my pants. JB Weld is great stuff when used in the right application.

I fabbed my own brackets for the front turn signals when I replaced the front valence with an air dam 6 or 7 years ago. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/260z-air-dam-and-front-bumper/

Yes, those are the ones I was referring to.

I think MSA used to sell Sentra mirrors that mount to the window frame. A friend in the GZC has them. They look nice, but they are next to useless because they aren't far out enough to see the things behind you that mirrors are designed to show.

JDM has a blemished set on ebay for $170. That's not a bad price.

Front? Rear? Both?

Indeed. I'm at prime risk for catching the Covid-19 pounds.

Working from home and eating sugar cookies.

@jfa.series1 - I think this is pretty close if not the same. After all, both are sold by Rustoleum. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-260510-12-Ounce-Sandable/dp/B006ZLQ4HQ

There are some car related things you can do inside.

It's About Time?

I did say those things in my first response on this thread. I cannot help it if you are too obtuse to absorb it.

The person who started this thread hasn't been back to this site since November 2010 according to his profile.

From the factory service manual: From the owner's manual: At least they are consistent. As far as type Dexron: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/dexron-ii-iii-32776/

It would go nicely with Dan Banks's fire truck. http://cincyconcours.com/largeimage.asp?txt_image=_DSC2518&txt_year=2011

1st - You have series and parallel elements in the way you drew up your circuit. I have spent many years reviewing controls drawings for work, and I have studied the wiring diagrams for S30s for over 25 years. I can recognize a good and bad circuit design. 2nd - The current doesn't disappear. Your circuit is designed wrong. You have the coil in SERIES with the headlight, AND you have the coil in PARALLEL with your path to ground. I read your stuff. You don't understand what you're doing. When I can wire up a circuit per your design and it doesn't work, I think that proves it. You have not shown a workable circuit. If you think you have, wire it up and prove me wrong. Spoiler: You won't prove me wrong. Click here

Sorry, I didn't know you had triples. It's definitely not the float bowl hose. That's only for SU carburetors. I am still thinking stuck float. Pull the plugs for the cylinders associated with that carburetor and see if they have a strong smell of gas.

It's probably either this hose: https://zcardepot.com/products/float-bowl-fuel-line-hose-su-carburetor-oem-240z?_pos=4&_sid=e55a805fa&_ss=r or a stuck float. There's no need to give up.

So I rigged up a test in my garage. Per my suspicions, the relay coil did not pick up when it was in series with the headlight.

Controlling the brightness works best by using a PWM. Read the attached for a quick overview. ApplicationNote_SE-AP00040-E.pdf