Jeff Berk

EuroDat, I think that helped. The notch is accessible now. I just need to find a ball bearing that fits. I don't know if it matters but my 5th gear hub pictured in SMT007A did not have that notch around its circumference.

I think the problem may be that the output shaft needs to be shifted further aft. The detent hole just to the left in the earlier photograph gets covered up by the reverse gear. Should I just try and push against the other end of the shaft (the input shaft end) until the detent hole is visible with the reverse gear installed. The following photograph shows the indent hole being covered by the fifth gear.

I’m having problems getting the components on the main output shaft to line up. The photograph shows from right to left 1) adaptor plate 2) three-prong spacer (hidden) 3) reverse gear with brass balking ring 4) a pair of needle bearings 5) overdrive gear, and 6) a spacer with a slot for a detent. I’m assuming the detent needs to go into the hemispherical cutout in the main shaft just in front of the needle bearings. However, when I install the OD gear, the cutout is not visible. Do I need to move the main shaft further to the left?

View Advert Right-hand M27X1.0 nuts for fs5w71 (NOT NOS) I had a handful of these machined since the cost of 4 was the same as just the one I needed. If I can sell them for $25 each plus shipping (3.50 first class or 8.50 insured priority) that will cover my cost. I can not make any more until the local make-it shop reopens and I buy a new tap. Advertiser Jeff Berk Date 03/16/2021 Price $28.50 Category Parts for Sale

Just a precaution, either get new fusible links of the correct amperage (color) or install some breakers. The old wiring on these Z's scares the hell out of me.

I don't think Think[box] at Case Univ. will charge me for the time so it's $22 for the tap (cheap Aliexpress import) and around $66 for a 1-foot 4140 Alloy Steel Hex Bar. So around $88 for the first one : ( Or, if I can get them to make me at least 4, $22 each. Why, do you want to buy one for $22 (assuming I get an extra 3)? If so, I'll PM you after I get them back in a few weeks. I'll likely post a few in the classified at cost.

I found a potentially useful FS5W71 rebuilding guide by Derek Garnier that may be of help to me and others: https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/0ByCvxnHNk90SYzc4N2E1MWEtMzg0MC00YTE4LTkxZGQtM2RjODA5ODA1YjU1?ddrp=1&hl=en&fbclid=IwAR3SqJySd00J_p1bT2-8yPS_4cSaUGl7jBQ-JcNuYgjk3l0QSo7Rb7gA2D4 Part 1: Volume 11, Issue 2 Part 2: Volume 11, Issue 3 Many of the photographs referenced in the above two articles are missing due to space limitations. A complete set of photographs are located here: https://datsun510.com/downloads/ look under FS5W71.zip I'm hopefully picking up a 4-speed on Sunday to part out for rebuilding one of the 5 speeds I have. A local maker space at Case Western University is milling me a right-hand thread, M27x1.0 stake nut. Let's see if I can get this working again by Spring thaw.

I think these hubcaps are aftermarket from National Wheel Covers manufactured by NAMSCO in Bellwood, Illinois although NAMSCO I thought only made reproduction hubcap for domestic cars. Thanks for the rabbit hole.

If I hadn't already purchase a pair of '76 seats for my 260z I'd of likely gone with Miata seats and mounted speakers in them: https://did-it-myself.com/diy-miata-headrest-speakers/

I'm not sure how accurate this is since it should be checked but here's what I've found in regards to parts that match up part numbers between 4 Speed-F4W71B (from Sept. 1971) and 5 Speed-F571B (from August 1976). This suggests that those 4-speed transmissions may be of use if they can be found in good condition. CrossReference 4 and 5 speed.pdf

ZedHead... I'll keep checking the local classified listings as well as attempt to contact the person I purchased the 5-speed from to see what he has laying around. Maybe I'll get lucky. In the mean time, I'm getting a lot of practice taking these things apart.

ZedHead... Are you suggesting that I find a usable 4 speed and use it to rebuild the worn out 5 speed? Or should I just go with a 4 speed in my 260z? Jeff

If you look at my Jan 4th posting, the teeth on my original transmission were sharper, but several of them were snapped off. I looked at that Transmissionpartsdistributors site; however the part is labeled as being for the C version of the transmission. I'm not sure how that differs from the FS5W71B transmission.

I like that DYI rotisserie. Your design or did you find plans for it?

I never heard of these. I'm not sure if I like it, but it is part of Z history. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/53266-the-primadonna-z-story-56k/

Soaking it with parts cleaner didn't work, A bearing puller/splitter didn't work, Heat didn't work... A 4-inch vice and two pipe wrenches with all my weight on one of them did the trick. The shafts started moving independently and eventually I was able to pull them apart. Zkars, you were absolutely right about the needle bearings. I snapped the tips of two teeth (one shown in the top left of the photograph). I'm assuming I can live with it. If not, I could see if I can find someone to weld some metal onto it. Thanks guys!

I had tried using the bearing splitter/puller clamped just behind the gear marked with the black arrow. It didn't move and I was concerned about damaging the teeth on the gear so I stopped. And yes, the front part appears to be seized to the rest of the shaft. I might try soaking it in degreaser for a while to see if it's just seized due to grit.

Well that 1st transmission was practice and I'm on to my 2nd unit I purchased hoping it was in better shape. I found a few issues but none that the rebuilding kit shouldn't take care of. My question now is how to get this gear cluster apart. On my first transmission, the shaft split into two sections between the black and orange arrow, this one will not budge. From what I can see in the diagram, there should be a snap ring between these two components so until I pull them apart, I'm not going to get any further. Any pointers on how to split it here without doing any damage?

My fuel pressure was close to 5psi at the 4-screw SU's. My mechanic told me to just adjust the pressure regulator screw. I have an aftermarket regulator so I don't know if the original one also works that way. This was a good idea for how to mount an extinguisher. https://www.amazon.com/Bracketeer-Extinguisher-Bracket-Universal-Vehicles/dp/B015G3QXMY I ended up just making my own based on this design for the passenger seat. I've had a couple of wire melt downs when I first purchased the 260z. Sorry about the mess, my Z is a work in progress.

I ended up purchasing a CHANNELLOCK 929 because it has a lock on it. My old Craftsman won't hold the rings open far or secure enough, OEM #25014 won't hold the interchangeable tips securely, and the OEM #25356 interchangeable tip holder broke off. The 929's are 3-4 times expensive so I have my fingers crossed.

Some of the apprehension is gone since I've mostly torn my first one down so I know what to expect. I just picked up an inexpensive parts washer (Performance Tool W54043 ) because this one has lots of dried oil on it. I have to find a GOOD pair of snap ring pliers. Maybe a pair that locks would work.

Well that transmission had an issue. I couldn't get the shaft to spin by hand let alone a drill. I decided to buy it anyway after the seller agreed to accept $200 for it figuring once I tear it down, I can figure out what the problem is and hopefully fix it. The seller insisted that it was working fine when he pulled it out of the donner car last month. He also will switch it out with another one he has if this one doesn't work. Unfortunately, I cannot pull the tail piece off more than an inch or so and for now the front section is stuck to the adaptor plate. UPDATE: I GOT THE TAIL OFF! UPDATE 2: I GOT THE FRONT OFF The main shaft bearings are a little loose so I'll get to use the rebuilding kit.

Thanks for the pointers. I like the idea of using a drill to spin the transmission. That and checking for metal flake in the fluid seems like a good plan.

If you've been following my thread on a FS5W71B with a slipping 3rd/4th, I've disassembled and found numerous worn parts that cannot be replaced. To quote zKars "Holy crap, those teeth are in bad shape. ..You are out of luck as to finding a replacement. Time to look for a new transmission I think. " I found a used transmission on Facebook/market 3 hours away: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/428839345022192/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner Is there anything I can do to check it out before I pay for it?

referring to the above photographs, the 3/4th fork pad thicknesses (top, center, bottom) are 4.11, 5.09, and 4.00mm. The center pad has a slight stepped appearance on one side. The 1/2 for pad thicknesses (top, center, bottom) are 4.55, 4.33, and 4.98mm I'm measuring the pad thickness as shown in the photograph.