Jeff Berk

I started this question in another thread but instead of taking over that thread, I thought it best to start a separate one. I have a '74 260z with an engine and drivetrain from a 280z or 280zx. The transmission is a wide ratio FS5W71B. The transmission would slip out of 3rd and sometimes 4th gear when I let up on the gas. I replaced the transmission fluid with Red-Line MT-90 and replaced the 3 ball bearings and springs (detent springs 32831N). There does not seem to be anything interfering with the shifter and the transmission seems to go fully into gear. I test drove the car today and the problem seems to persist. According to the service manual, after eliminating the springs as the problem, the next thing to look at are the Shift Fork and the Gears. My question is, whether I could tackle this level of rebuild or is this something best left to a professional? I'm also not sure how available the gears and shift fork are for this old unit. Note that the ball bearings for the springs came in packs of 10 so I have 7 extra if someone needs any along with an extra spring since I ordered an extra expecting to loose one. Thanks Jeff

If you are talking about the heating element on O2 sensors, that's there just to get them up to operating temperature (~600F http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/understanding_oxygen_sensors.asp). After a few minutes, I don't think you don't need it. A good discussion of O2 placement can be found here. My original idea for including a Rraspberry Pi was to add a G-meter. Not because it adds any diagnostics, but it's cool. My son's 2020 Type N has a factory one in his dash.

I started looking into this because I'm also a data junky. I was looking into a "no-weld" bung to fit the O2 sensor to. I figured on using the O2 sensor's voltage output monitored and logged by a Raspberry Pi. Not sure what I'd do with all the data.

Ditto on the heat shrink. Those ball sockets worked great. I had used a stainless steel rod and cut threading on the ends but blacking out the rod looks great.

FYI, the drain plug didn't look too bad so hopefully the new springs will take care of things. I'm picking up the Red-Line tomorrow. Thanks all.

Thank you... I think I found them using your annotated photos. Switching out these inexpensive items are worth a shot before having the transmission rebuilt. Do I need to spray anything in the holes after removing the springs and check balls to clean out gunk or should they be fine. Euro Dat, That is one clean transmission! Jeff

EuroDat and Zed Head... Thanks for the help. I downloaded the service manual for the FS5W71C from NICOclub and it shows the first thing to check for wear are the plug return spring and ball. The diagram provided by Zed Head shows 3 of them. EuroDat, how do you access them without removing the transmission? Are the plugs visible on the outside of the transmission? If so, can you point them out on one of the photographs in the first post of this thread? I'm going to pull the drain plug this weekend and check for metal shavings. There weren't any 3 years ago when I pulled and reinstalled the transmission, but that was 3 years ago. Jeff

3rd gear is the issue. Are parts generally still available? Zcar Depot sells a rebuilding kit that includes seals, bearings, and synchros. But if it's something else, is it possible to still get parts?

I'm trying to ID my transmission because I need to check if parts are still available. All I know is that it came out of a 280z or zx since it was installed in my 260 around '83. Based on the retaining bolt placement above the speedo cable and the two tabs on the tail end of the transmission housing it is likely a wide ratio FS5W71B. Is this the only potential transmission or do I need to dig deeper. There is an L3 on the housing if that helps. Also, from talking to a transmission specialist, my problem of popping out of gear may be related to worn shoes or forks. If he is on the right track, are these components still available? I'm going to pull my center console out to see if something is blocking the shifter before bringing it in just in case it's a simple issue. Thanks in advance... Jeff

I'd like to also kick the engineer in the nuts that had that diagram of the removal procedure sketched in the FSM. The one showing the pin being pulled out with two fingers. I ended up constructing a puller with the help of a local machine shop.

Wants too much for shipping, I'll pass...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/791366034733342 I would consider this but my wife is already is already trying to get me to part with my '74

Nice home for that little red Z!

Nevermind. I found an old post that shows green 0.50^2 mm = 40 amps black 1.25^2 mm = 80 amps

zKars. Thanks for the suggestions. If I do go with a breaker or new fuse design, any idea what amperage I would be needing for the green and black fusible links? Jeff

heyitsrama, thanks for the suggestion on the alternator wire. It was heavily burnt at the alternator connection.

I just realized as I was shopping around for a fusible link that 2.0^2 mm (gray) is much higher than what was originally in my 1974 260z (early production). According to theZstore, I should be using 1.25^2mm (black) and 0.5^2mm (green).

In trying to troubleshoot another electrical glitch, I noticed that one of my 2.0^2 mm fusible links had damaged insulation and the wire inside was corroded. Was this due to overheating? I had removed, cleaned, and coated the contacts last year. Should I consider replacing the fusible links with a pair of high amp fuses? If so, any suggestions on which model? There was a nice one on this forum a few years ago that would accept two fuses and had a volt and amp display for $30; but it's no longer available. Or should I just purchase a replacement link? Thanks Jeff

I'd likely replace the blanks with switches marked ejector seat, oil slick, warp drive, flux capacitor, etc.

Unfortunately, no. It's a 1973 plate but my car is a 1974 (January I think) so the date is wrong. I purchased it anyways since I could possibly use it as a front plate. I'm a bit confused why someone in 1973 would of got a D 260 Z plate since the 260Z wasn't made until 1974.

OK, now this is so close

Would using the turbo Z pump be strong enough to pump oil through both the internal oiler and spray arms? Is there a way to check how well it's working?

Sure it will ; )

Well I'm back to where I was last year. I got this message from my mechanic when I brought the car back in to have the valves adjusted: Jeff, For some reason your cam/head has an oiling problem. The same cam lobes that were destroyed on the first cam are bad on the new cam. I have a new cam and rocker arm set coming next week. This cam uses a different oiling system than the original cam. Followed by: The new cam will be internally oiled. You can use both the spray bar and internal oiling, the oil pump does not have the volume to do both. I think we should also replace the oil pump with a turboZ oil pump. I have not got the complete cost of the replacement parts yet. I will keep you posted. Any opinions on this? The mechanic specializes in Japan and British car restoration and races a 510 so he seems to know what he is doing.

Patcon I like that 26 ZR. Do you think anyone would notice if I added a "0" in there? Jeff