Jeff Berk

FYI, the drain plug didn't look too bad so hopefully the new springs will take care of things. I'm picking up the Red-Line tomorrow. Thanks all.

Thank you... I think I found them using your annotated photos. Switching out these inexpensive items are worth a shot before having the transmission rebuilt. Do I need to spray anything in the holes after removing the springs and check balls to clean out gunk or should they be fine. Euro Dat, That is one clean transmission! Jeff

EuroDat and Zed Head... Thanks for the help. I downloaded the service manual for the FS5W71C from NICOclub and it shows the first thing to check for wear are the plug return spring and ball. The diagram provided by Zed Head shows 3 of them. EuroDat, how do you access them without removing the transmission? Are the plugs visible on the outside of the transmission? If so, can you point them out on one of the photographs in the first post of this thread? I'm going to pull the drain plug this weekend and check for metal shavings. There weren't any 3 years ago when I pulled and reinstalled the transmission, but that was 3 years ago. Jeff

3rd gear is the issue. Are parts generally still available? Zcar Depot sells a rebuilding kit that includes seals, bearings, and synchros. But if it's something else, is it possible to still get parts?

I'm trying to ID my transmission because I need to check if parts are still available. All I know is that it came out of a 280z or zx since it was installed in my 260 around '83. Based on the retaining bolt placement above the speedo cable and the two tabs on the tail end of the transmission housing it is likely a wide ratio FS5W71B. Is this the only potential transmission or do I need to dig deeper. There is an L3 on the housing if that helps. Also, from talking to a transmission specialist, my problem of popping out of gear may be related to worn shoes or forks. If he is on the right track, are these components still available? I'm going to pull my center console out to see if something is blocking the shifter before bringing it in just in case it's a simple issue. Thanks in advance... Jeff

I'd like to also kick the engineer in the nuts that had that diagram of the removal procedure sketched in the FSM. The one showing the pin being pulled out with two fingers. I ended up constructing a puller with the help of a local machine shop.

Wants too much for shipping, I'll pass...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/791366034733342 I would consider this but my wife is already is already trying to get me to part with my '74

Nice home for that little red Z!

Nevermind. I found an old post that shows green 0.50^2 mm = 40 amps black 1.25^2 mm = 80 amps

zKars. Thanks for the suggestions. If I do go with a breaker or new fuse design, any idea what amperage I would be needing for the green and black fusible links? Jeff

heyitsrama, thanks for the suggestion on the alternator wire. It was heavily burnt at the alternator connection.

I just realized as I was shopping around for a fusible link that 2.0^2 mm (gray) is much higher than what was originally in my 1974 260z (early production). According to theZstore, I should be using 1.25^2mm (black) and 0.5^2mm (green).

In trying to troubleshoot another electrical glitch, I noticed that one of my 2.0^2 mm fusible links had damaged insulation and the wire inside was corroded. Was this due to overheating? I had removed, cleaned, and coated the contacts last year. Should I consider replacing the fusible links with a pair of high amp fuses? If so, any suggestions on which model? There was a nice one on this forum a few years ago that would accept two fuses and had a volt and amp display for $30; but it's no longer available. Or should I just purchase a replacement link? Thanks Jeff

I'd likely replace the blanks with switches marked ejector seat, oil slick, warp drive, flux capacitor, etc.

Unfortunately, no. It's a 1973 plate but my car is a 1974 (January I think) so the date is wrong. I purchased it anyways since I could possibly use it as a front plate. I'm a bit confused why someone in 1973 would of got a D 260 Z plate since the 260Z wasn't made until 1974.

OK, now this is so close

Would using the turbo Z pump be strong enough to pump oil through both the internal oiler and spray arms? Is there a way to check how well it's working?

Sure it will ; )

Well I'm back to where I was last year. I got this message from my mechanic when I brought the car back in to have the valves adjusted: Jeff, For some reason your cam/head has an oiling problem. The same cam lobes that were destroyed on the first cam are bad on the new cam. I have a new cam and rocker arm set coming next week. This cam uses a different oiling system than the original cam. Followed by: The new cam will be internally oiled. You can use both the spray bar and internal oiling, the oil pump does not have the volume to do both. I think we should also replace the oil pump with a turboZ oil pump. I have not got the complete cost of the replacement parts yet. I will keep you posted. Any opinions on this? The mechanic specializes in Japan and British car restoration and races a 510 so he seems to know what he is doing.

Patcon I like that 26 ZR. Do you think anyone would notice if I added a "0" in there? Jeff

I've been searching for an Ohio 1974 license plate to go with my '74 260Z. In Ohio, you can use a historic license plate or an old license plate that matches the year of your car on a historic vehicle. Right now there is one on e-bay "Z N" as in Z'n or Z'ing If anyone see something better let me know. I'm looking for something closer to 260Z. Jeff https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohio-VANITY-License-Plate-Z-N/373003309954?hash=item56d8bad382:g:DygAAOSwnZRefhV9

Just a thought, you might want to disconnect, clean, and reconnect each connection while you go through the wiring. Almost all my electrical issues on my car seemed to trace back to bad connections.

After struggling with the double relay electric fuel safety wiring on my '74, I'm wiring power to my fuel pump around the relays and going with an inertia kill switch I purchased from RockAuto (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=43206&cc=1209181&jsn=4). From the directions, it seems that the switch triggering mechanism is sensitive to where it's mounted. Put it in the wrong place and it will trigger if you slam the door or go over a rough road. If you've installed an inertia switch, where have you placed it?

Sorry, but I had to look it up. I'm assuming you meant the first definition and not the last ?: Sakura (桜 (kanji), 櫻 (old kanji), さくら (hiragana), サクラ (katakana)) is the Japanese term for ornamental cherry blossom trees and their blossoms. Sakura may also refer to: Sakura, raw horse meat, usually prepared as sashimi called basashi