w3wilkes

From what I can find typical oil temp is between 230 and 260 degrees F. Water temp leaving the block where temp is measured is roughly 180 to 200 by the temp gauge on the dash. Don't know what the water temp is a the bottom of the radiator when it goes back to the block, but it's got to be somewhat less than when it leaves the block. The ATF cooling section is at the bottom of the radiator so my guess is it would have a positive effect on cooling the oil.

I put a Champion radiator in my car which includes a section for ATF cooling for those with automatic transmissions. I have a manual transmission so the ATF section still has the caps on it. Has anyone thought of using that for oil cooling in a standard transmission car. I figure you could use an oil cooler sandwich adapter and run the lines to the ATF cooling ports of the radiator and use it for oil cooling. Thoughts??

I've gone to an electric pump and while removing the mech pump I broke the spacer. The block off plate goes on fine without the spacer and I don't think heat transfer should be an issue for the block off plate. Since I'm saving the mech pump and mounting stuff the only spacer I could find was on ebay; http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/202014972729?chn=ps&dispItem=1 But whoa, pretty spendy. I figured the only way I could ensure that I wouldn't need it down the road was to buy a new one!

Thanks for giving me the confidence to smack them with a mallet, came right off after a couple of hits. The fun part was cleaning the gaskets off the manifold side of the spacer.

I just got my new carburetors from ZTherapy. After removing the front carb I find that the spacer block is pretty solidly in place after being there for 46 years. I would hate to damage it. Is there some trick to getting it to come loose so I can replace the gasket?

Very nice car! No cracks in the dash? My guess is you'd feel the same after 100,000 miles - I do! You shipped it from Colorado to Denmark?

Wouldn't going all LED bulbs also take the load off the wiring harness, switches and fuse box?

Maverik here in Utah sells "Clear 88" which is ethanol free / 88 octane. I did ask ZTherapy about ethanol gas in their rebuilt carborators and Bruce said that they've done extensive soak tests a few years back with no problems. My concern is with the rubber fuel lines. I've lined my tank and replaced all lines with E85 rated lines.

Found lots of stuff in here on LED headlights, but not these specifically. Has anybody tried these in their 240? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BWQOW4/ref=psdc_318323011_t2_B01HD6HX8U It looks like these will fit the stock H6024 cans.

Update... I called consumer affairs at the number I gave in the original post using option 7. The consumer affairs person referred this to Nissan Marketing who manually entered me for the contest.

Nissan USA is having a giveaway for your choice of 1 of 3 Nissan vehicles for Nissan / Datsun owners in the 50 United States. The official rules referred to on the contest page state that you must be an owner of any Nissan or Datsun vehicle with no limit on the age of the car (see Section 1 - Eligibility) and then requires a VIN for contest entry. Of course it won't accept the VIN of our HLS30 cars. You can then call Nissan customer service at 1 (800) 647-7261 option 7 to complain. The entry form can be found here; https://nissan.promo.eprize.com/summer2017/

I know I'm a little late to this party, but I just ordered this unit from MSA to replace the Sony cassette deck in my 71 Z car. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08c01/50-1289 I like the stock look. It has both USB and minijack inputs that could be placed in the glove box. Down the road if you get a Bluetooth capable device this would support that too. I have Bluetooth in another vehicle and about 250 albums on my Android phone. As far as I'm concerned this is the way to go for both music and hands free phone use along with no more cassettes or CD's in the car. I don't think it supports Sirius/XM, but I've had it before and dumped it. For me there was not enough value add for the subscription cost.

I notice that the MSA foam seat core (item code 40-2691) is identical for Z years 70 to 78. When I check leather seat cover stuff from MSA it says that there are 3 different sets of leather seat covers (code 40-2700 for years 70-73, 40-2701 for years 74-76 and 40-2702 for years 77-78) that are not interchangeable. If you get new foam seat cores that are the same for all years from 70 to 78 what is different in these 3 leather seat cover codes that doesn’t allow them to be the same across the 70 to 78 seat years? It doesn’t make sense that the foam cores under the seat covers is the same, but the leather seat cover over those foam cores is different depending on the year of the car seat. I understand that the series 1 (1970 – early 1971) cars have material strapping vs spring steel for support in the seat bottoms, but that doesn’t seem to make a difference for the 40-2700 seat covers which MSA says runs from 1970 to 1973 Z cars. Just color me very confused!

I scored some 77 seats. I'll have to swap the floor rails with the 70 rails. Looks like the 77 rails bolt to the floor a little different. I've got leather seat covers from Interior Innovations and have new foam innards for the seats on the way from MSA. Got a shift and E/brake boot to match the new seat covers too. Except for one crack in the dash the interior is done. Even the clock works!

Cool! Now it's off to find some 72 to 78 seats.

Do the 72 - 78 seats match up to 70 seat to bolt them to the floor? I like the spring seat bottom and recline adjustment much better on the 72 - 78 seats.

A dumb question... All through this thread I see it stated that 4 PSI is pushing it for a standard carbureted 240Z. Why is MSA selling this http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17a09/11-3078 as a good replacement for the mechanical fuel pump? This pump is rated at 4 - 7 PSI self regulating. MSA says nothing about needing to regulate this pump or am I missing something??

Mine probably won't get started for another few weeks due to other priorities. I'm hopeful that with the rubber pad I used between the pump and the mounting plate I have a similar outcome to Jeff's! I'm also curious about the clogged line and glad I haven't found anything like that!

So you're running 2 fuel filters before the pump?

Thanks

I guess you haven't found the 3022 CAN to be too bright for the map light?

While I've got the dash open for a new radio I thought I'd replace the overhead and map bulbs with LED. Thinking a nice bright for the overhead; https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/festoon/filter/Base_Type,3110,1,8182: And https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/de3175-led-bulb-4-smd-led-festoon-30mm-car/2107/#/attributes/10822 for the map light. Will these work?

Dorman is a brand name https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-55242?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-dorman&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5arMBRDzARIsAAqmJex1a7DqqYXnLNYSKlgGPwWjlsF0mcg9AkBsrUVIKTBs5v3B9ag6DhIaAh2VEALw_wcB

@Jeff, From your sig... 300ZX coast to coast when you're 50! Enjoy the trip. If you turned 50 today I would have had my drivers license for over a year already when you were born. My first 240Z was a '73 that I bought brand new for my 22nd birthday present to myself. It was my daily driver for 20+ years until it rusted to death from Utah winters. I still wasn't tired of the car so now I have the '71, but it's no longer required to be a daily driver.

@moelk, Are you running 205/60/15 and if so did you have to do any speedo calibration for your speedo to show correctly? From your reply this isn't clear.