w3wilkes

Finally pulled the trigger on some H6024 LED headlights. Here's what I ordered https://www.eaglelites.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015 Looks like they're probably made by the same manufacturer as the Truck-lite or Grote's. They list at $179.99 US for the pair and says they come with everything you need. If you go to close the page it will pop up a 10% discount code. I'm guessing the power requirements should drop to less than 4 amps for high and less than 2 amps for low beam. Since I found my car is a "perdiddle" I figured I'd pull the trigger on these. I'll update when I get them in the car.

Just a comment on the picture you posted of your car... I didn't know that Canada got Euro style non-emission cars back in the early days. That balance tube looks to be the Euro style tube available from ZTherapy and there are some differences I see in the carb linkage from my 12/70 USA car due to the non-emission, cool!

Just a comment... I've had a clutch slave cylinder failure that rendered no clutch pedal. I had no trouble driving. Just shut off the motor at the light, put it in 1st and started it in 1st when time to go. Shifting isn't a problem without a clutch if you're careful... no jamming, let off the gas and the car will easily come out of gear then just ease it to the next gear as the RPM's drop. This is one of the kinds of things you could do in old cars that "aren't allowed" in the new high tech car world.

I think that he meant the low/high beam switch on the blinker stalk, not the dash light dimmer knob.

I know this is an old thread, but Pat, you deserve a BIG THANK YOU! After 46 years I had one of my heater hoses start leaking where it attached to the Y thing by the reducer hose on the engine side of the block, when I pulled the hose off it looked like it was disintegrating. The reducer and the other heater hose that connects to the block looked like they would probably fail in the not to distant future too. I also have original dealer installed A/C and thought I'd started an impossible task. Finding your approach of removing the control valve made the removal doable. After getting the 1st hose and transfer hose off my biggest issue was that the original factory installer faced the screw on the second heater hose clamp straight up (must have been a mean joke) so I ended up having to use wire cutters to get that clamp off. I'll be switching to regular worm gear clamps so I can use a nut driver with an extension on the new clamps. All new heater hoses, reducer and transfer hose are on the way. Next time this becomes an issue it will be some one else's problem.

Thanks, looks just like my 12/70 car. My Clymer manual shows the PCV valve position to be the same from 70 -72, but says the 73-74 is different, but similar. Still curious as to the difference introduced with I'm guessing car HLS30-21001 from earlier cars? Since I consider hoses as "consumables" I'd like a spare. This hose is a different size at the block than it is at the PCV valve, at least on my 17,486 car.

Still looking on headlights. I have started leaning more towards Grote http://www.grote.com/products/90941-5-grote-7-inch-led-headlight-sealed-beam-replacement/ or Truck lite http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&urlLangId=-1&productId=48710 These 2 choices look more stock. I'm thinking that if I do all my exterior lighting with LED - marker, tail, license plate, front blinker/park, electronic flasher for blinkers and flashers to handle LED along with LED headlights I will not need to do any wiring changes since the power draw will be substantially reduced to the point where the wattage draw won't be an issue. The one thing I've read about the LED's that sit behind a colored lens (blinkers, tail and markers) is you should get a bulb that is the same color as the lens. For instance if you put a white LED behind a red lens the lens will block all color from the bulb except red which will reduce the brightness of the bulb, so you should put a red LED bulb behind a red lens. https://www.superbrightleds.com/ sells colored bulbs to match the lens color you're putting it behind. They cost more, but with their rated life you should never have to replace them.

The PCV valve on my car is also in the center of the balance tube. Interesting that ZCarDepot lists 1 hose for 70 - 74, but MSA lists a hose separate for 70 that's NLA and then a hose for 71 - 72 that is available and NLA for 73 - 74. Maybe ZCarDepot's hose fits more cars because they charge twice as much for the hose than MSA!

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic16d/15-6211 Is listed for 71 - 72 cars. The same part for 70 cars is no longer available. My car is titled & registered as a 71, but was built 12/70. The parts appear to be the same, what's the difference and what serial # car would the 71 - 72 part start at?

From what I can find typical oil temp is between 230 and 260 degrees F. Water temp leaving the block where temp is measured is roughly 180 to 200 by the temp gauge on the dash. Don't know what the water temp is a the bottom of the radiator when it goes back to the block, but it's got to be somewhat less than when it leaves the block. The ATF cooling section is at the bottom of the radiator so my guess is it would have a positive effect on cooling the oil.

I put a Champion radiator in my car which includes a section for ATF cooling for those with automatic transmissions. I have a manual transmission so the ATF section still has the caps on it. Has anyone thought of using that for oil cooling in a standard transmission car. I figure you could use an oil cooler sandwich adapter and run the lines to the ATF cooling ports of the radiator and use it for oil cooling. Thoughts??

I've gone to an electric pump and while removing the mech pump I broke the spacer. The block off plate goes on fine without the spacer and I don't think heat transfer should be an issue for the block off plate. Since I'm saving the mech pump and mounting stuff the only spacer I could find was on ebay; http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/202014972729?chn=ps&dispItem=1 But whoa, pretty spendy. I figured the only way I could ensure that I wouldn't need it down the road was to buy a new one!

Thanks for giving me the confidence to smack them with a mallet, came right off after a couple of hits. The fun part was cleaning the gaskets off the manifold side of the spacer.

I just got my new carburetors from ZTherapy. After removing the front carb I find that the spacer block is pretty solidly in place after being there for 46 years. I would hate to damage it. Is there some trick to getting it to come loose so I can replace the gasket?

Very nice car! No cracks in the dash? My guess is you'd feel the same after 100,000 miles - I do! You shipped it from Colorado to Denmark?

Wouldn't going all LED bulbs also take the load off the wiring harness, switches and fuse box?

Maverik here in Utah sells "Clear 88" which is ethanol free / 88 octane. I did ask ZTherapy about ethanol gas in their rebuilt carborators and Bruce said that they've done extensive soak tests a few years back with no problems. My concern is with the rubber fuel lines. I've lined my tank and replaced all lines with E85 rated lines.

Found lots of stuff in here on LED headlights, but not these specifically. Has anybody tried these in their 240? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BWQOW4/ref=psdc_318323011_t2_B01HD6HX8U It looks like these will fit the stock H6024 cans.

Update... I called consumer affairs at the number I gave in the original post using option 7. The consumer affairs person referred this to Nissan Marketing who manually entered me for the contest.

Nissan USA is having a giveaway for your choice of 1 of 3 Nissan vehicles for Nissan / Datsun owners in the 50 United States. The official rules referred to on the contest page state that you must be an owner of any Nissan or Datsun vehicle with no limit on the age of the car (see Section 1 - Eligibility) and then requires a VIN for contest entry. Of course it won't accept the VIN of our HLS30 cars. You can then call Nissan customer service at 1 (800) 647-7261 option 7 to complain. The entry form can be found here; https://nissan.promo.eprize.com/summer2017/

I know I'm a little late to this party, but I just ordered this unit from MSA to replace the Sony cassette deck in my 71 Z car. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08c01/50-1289 I like the stock look. It has both USB and minijack inputs that could be placed in the glove box. Down the road if you get a Bluetooth capable device this would support that too. I have Bluetooth in another vehicle and about 250 albums on my Android phone. As far as I'm concerned this is the way to go for both music and hands free phone use along with no more cassettes or CD's in the car. I don't think it supports Sirius/XM, but I've had it before and dumped it. For me there was not enough value add for the subscription cost.

I notice that the MSA foam seat core (item code 40-2691) is identical for Z years 70 to 78. When I check leather seat cover stuff from MSA it says that there are 3 different sets of leather seat covers (code 40-2700 for years 70-73, 40-2701 for years 74-76 and 40-2702 for years 77-78) that are not interchangeable. If you get new foam seat cores that are the same for all years from 70 to 78 what is different in these 3 leather seat cover codes that doesn’t allow them to be the same across the 70 to 78 seat years? It doesn’t make sense that the foam cores under the seat covers is the same, but the leather seat cover over those foam cores is different depending on the year of the car seat. I understand that the series 1 (1970 – early 1971) cars have material strapping vs spring steel for support in the seat bottoms, but that doesn’t seem to make a difference for the 40-2700 seat covers which MSA says runs from 1970 to 1973 Z cars. Just color me very confused!

I scored some 77 seats. I'll have to swap the floor rails with the 70 rails. Looks like the 77 rails bolt to the floor a little different. I've got leather seat covers from Interior Innovations and have new foam innards for the seats on the way from MSA. Got a shift and E/brake boot to match the new seat covers too. Except for one crack in the dash the interior is done. Even the clock works!

Cool! Now it's off to find some 72 to 78 seats.

Do the 72 - 78 seats match up to 70 seat to bolt them to the floor? I like the spring seat bottom and recline adjustment much better on the 72 - 78 seats.