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Please post a photo of the tang under the distributor. It should look like this when the crank is at TDC: 11:27 is more accurate ?

Maybe bead blast or vapour blast then leave in the rain for a few weeks? Your bead blast looks very close.

Rare NOS showing us what came out of the factory: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-Valve-Cam-Cover-NEW-OLD-STOCK-WITH-TAGS-240Z-260Z-280Z-OEM-NOS/333359148743?hash=item4d9dc0eec7:g:USkAAOSwTeJdoie7 Here is a valve cover painted with high temp aluminum

20mm down is fine too.

https://translate.google.ca/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fstr%2Fmotorkontorclassic%3F_trksid%3Dp2047675.l2563

https://www.ebay.de/itm/ORIGINAL-DATSUN-ANSAUGKRUMMER-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-FOR-DATSUN-240Z/222962824399?hash=item33e99eb4cf:g:nDAAAOSwbJla6cnS

I plan to do a tribute to the first 240z displayed at the Tokyo Motor Show so that is where my splash pan is planned, but, I still can not ascertain if it actually had one from the photos. If not, I could sell it to you. (or trade for orange tail lights or Fairlady Z style spoiler) The 432 and Fairlady Z L had them:

Polish yours then zinc plate it

Here is the description: (also see pdf in this post) https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-s30-forums-9/firewall-relay-help-40760/#post340094 throttle Opener.pdf

better photo

Using a British/Canadian term https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cable_gland btw Happy Thanksgiving ?

@jfa.series1 and you need to get together!

It is on the firewall between the battery and choke cable gland

I believe it is the "Throttle Opener Relay" Part 18 below:

On firewall near wiper grommet right?

I agree with you Alan. There are so many people involved in the development of a product, each with their ideas, visions, abilities and influence. My posts above are from a very high level as per what a "bean counter" in Nissan would see and steer the company. All of those who put their heart and soul into the product each had their own dreams of what they were creating. We are the lucky ones to enjoy it! btw: Even the internal Prince/Nissan rivalry that made its way into the S30's evolution makes for a wonderful history of a great product. I love it all and this forum that keeps the spirit alive and well.

Initially, when it was just a few individuals drawing or designing it, the direction to market was not clearly defined, but when the corporation made its decision to run with it and replace the roadster, the designs were altered to accommodate the USA market. This is all well documented. Sure, Nissan made variants of the core product for different markets and had inputs from different parts of the company to make further changes, but the main product was developed from 1966 to 1969 for the USA market and replacing the roadster in its product line.

Follow the money. Corporations go after markets and when successfully in a market region, continue to develop and refine new products for that market to maintain position or expand it. From 1964 to 1965, Nissan's sales of sports cars to USA doubled from ~2,000 to ~4000, for domestic market it dropped from ~1,800 to ~900. For making a decision to build a new sports car in 1965, which market would give less risk and have more growth potential? It is clear it was for the USA. Whether the goals of a few individuals in the corporation may have been initially leaning towards a local product, it is clear what the corporation was seeing and where it was going, as also stated by many more individuals in the corporation. The numbers speak for themselves.

I was working on a 73 last night in the same area (heater/radio area of the dash). There were some unusual unaccountable wires. I think your photo may show the 3 point junction below. On the 73, there was an inline fuse holder (20A) that fed the red wire to the heater motor. I also found two blue wires. One only had power when the lights were on.

The technique for tightening the wheel must be in symmetrical and low force steps: 1. Tighten all lug nuts with fingers with wheel off ground. As you go, rock wheel to ensure the lugnuts centre in the holes or their beveled edge centres the hole. This is what centres the wheel on the hub and is critical. 2. Use a ratchet to snug the lug nuts little by little in a cross pattern. 3. Lower the car and torque to spec.

Great buy for $1000

Very nice!

Your car will foul the plugs quickly if the water temp sensor is not connected and everything else is nominal. The computer will think you are in Antarctica and flood the cylinders with gas. Some pictures here showing how the temp sensor wiring goes back to the harness: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html This will help you better understand the Z's EFI system. It is not that difficult: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/overview.html

Yes... sorry I forgot to confirm. Thanks! I soaked those GJ's in vinegar and rubbed to remove oxidation. One had a sticking ball that overflowed when I removed from a car so check them carefully. Maybe a good solvent soak and blast with compressed air would be a next step to ensure the passages inside are free of debris and buildup.