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I only think the hubcaps would fall off if you have the really early hubcaps with only 17 'gripper' tabs on the back of the hubcap, instead of 40 on the later 1970 ones and then only if you were cornering pretty hard. Having said that, with the price of replacing the 'd' stlye caps reaching ridiculous levels ( I know as I've only recently managed to buy some), it is not something you want to leave to chance. Andrew

Kats I'd agree with Alan on this one. It seems 'accepted' that the very early cars had the rounded knobs which are therefore much more difficult to find. I have never seen a rounded throttle lever knob for sale but I have seen the occasional rounded choke lever knob for sale. I've just bought a throttle cable unit off ebay that has the more square knob. Probably correct for my April 1970 car. I don't know what came with mine originally as it did not have a choke lever knob when I bought the car. regards Andrew

Kats I look forward to seeing the rear deck on yours. As far as I can tell my April 1970 has the same deck as 26th-z's. I'll post a picture (if I can get my digi camera to work!!!) regards Andrew

Agreed but I and I assume many others do not have access to air tools. An impact driver at $10 is 'cheap'. For fairly 'beefy' items hitting them with an impact driver will not harm them. That includes z seat frames as I have been there. But I would not use one on unsupported sheet metal for instance. Would an 'air hammer' deal with a seized cross head screw? Wouldn't it chew up the screw head if you didn't hold it REALLY tight against the screwhead? The beauty of an impact driver is that it forces the screw bit into the head of the screw it is to hold and as such is ideal to remove seized SCREWS. I agree that for seized BOLTS an impact driver should be un-necessary. A breaker bar and socket ( or air hammer if you have one) is far better. Just my opinion. Each to their own Andrew

For clarification – impact driver looks like a fat screwdriver with interchangeable bits that go in the end – about $10 at a tool shop: you hit one end and it provides a twisting force to remove a stuck screw) Personally I think an impact driver is an indispensable tool ( and frequently the only way) for removing seized cross head screws, which I think is what Shoudt is dealing with. Perhaps I have misunderstood, but I don’t see how a socket set would help.

Do the ones from Classic datsun look exactly the same the originals? I bought some from somewhere else and they are 'close' to original but not 100%

I heard that in total over all the series of Dukes of Hazzard they wrecked some 200-300 Dodge chargers. Criminal if correct Andrew

I had the same problem. Brace the seat frame and use an impact screwdriver. As you are replacing the seat covers it shouldn't matter if you damage the old cover when you hit it. If that doesn't work then it must be well seized and you will have to drill it out. Just out of interest where did you get your replacement seat covers from? I got some from toointense, but I'm not 100% happy with them. regards AndrewB

Glad us poms beat the French last Saturday. The French had already planned a huge victory party so I'm only too glad we p***ed on their fireworks. I'm also gonna claim participation in a world record event. Kyteler, Z-Kid and myself ( a Kiwi, an Aussie and a pom) were in the 240z.org chat room for nearly 1 hour AND NO MENTION WAS MADE OF RUGBY AT ALL. I think this record could stand for a long time :classic: For sure the Aussies won't want to talk about it when we beat them in the final!!!:classic: Andrew

I agree, unless the seller emails you after auction end and says that he got the shipping wrong, as has happened to me on a couple of occasions. I know you can say 'but this is a binding contract' and all but if you really want the part you will pay an extra $2 if they want it. Strangely one guy in particular wouldn't actually ask me for extra shipping but kind of 'hinted' that the shipping had gone up and wouldn't give me any kind of promise as to delivery etc UNTIL I e-mailed him and said well would the extra $2 resolve the matter. Not surprisingly it did. Fortunately that is the kind of game only a few people seem to play. The majority of sellers are great no problems at all. And keeping an eye on a seller's feedback does no harm either. I would never buy an expensive item from someone with little or no feed back. I might risk it on a cheap item that I really want. I'll also second Bambikiller's point about Midwestz. Chloe's 'bombproof' packaging is becoming legendary, and I 'm sure defies physics with the amount of packing material they can get into a box of a certain size. :classic:

I'd agree with all the comments about no shipping quoted=seller going to try and stiff you on the shipping. I've also been shafted where there is a choice of shipping ( particularly as I am outside the US) of either surface or airmail. Unless I really need it badly ( or unless I trust the shipper) I now go for surface mail as more than once I have paid for airmail and the seller has sent it surface mail ( 6weeks delivery!!!) and pocketed the difference.

I think there is an element of skill involved, but I don't think it takes that long to acquire at lowish speeds and on purpose built tracks and such I would guess is an OK spectator sport but not one for me. What gets my respect is oversteer in an F1 car at 170 mph, or at 120 mph in a rally car through a forest with nothing but very solid trees or a 100ft drop should you lose it. In a sense the rallying guys are the ultimate 'drifters' as their object is to keep the car 'loose' all the time.

Sledz I don't know how much you consider to be outrageous but I bought a NEW 70-71 master cylinder from Andy at Datsun dude for I think it was $125. He is at z@datsundude.com. I would stick to the old stlye if that sort of price is OK, as I recall Carl Beck discussing some problems with the servo pushrod length if you change from old to new or vice versa. If you do decide to swap to the later style I would go for a new one, not rebuilt. They have come up on ebay recently for quite reasonable money ($50) It does sound as if your steering wheel is a 1970/71, which do not have the cut outs on the spokes Hope it helps:classic: Andrew

texasz changing the diff is pretty straightforward bolt in affair. I found it a bit awkward to do it on my own especially if you can only lift the car a short way on axle stands. Best way is to 1) jack back of car up and put on axle stands 2) place trolly jack under rear of diff 3) remove half shafts and drive shaft 4) release the back of the original diff at the 2 outside moustache bar nuts. 4) Undo do the 4 bolts holding in the front diff cross memeber to the floorpan lowering the trolley jack, the diff *should* lower with it. (I can't at present remember whether the rear suspension a-frames will foul the diff as you lower it, if the do it is a simple matter of removing the rear a-arm cross member. You will know what I mean when you are there!!! 5) swap the moustache bar and front cross member over to new diff. Check your front diff mount and outer mostache bar bushes for deterioration while it is out. 6) check the diff strap that is left on the car above where the diff goes for wear deterioration. 7) and as it says in the Haynes manual 'replacement is a reversal of the above :classic: Are you going to change the speedo drive gear. I presume you speedo will be out once you change the diff. hope it helps Andrew

Too bad there are no cockpit voice recorders on small planes. I can hear it now: 'might as well keep going as we are about to die.' Crude. I'm sorry:classic: Andrew

Hi all On both my z's I noticed this residue on the jute. On mine it only seems to be on the central tunnel jute and the pieces behind the seats. The other pieces of jute ( original as far as I can see) are just dirty/discoloured with no residue. I always thought the residue might have been some kind of contact adhesive to stick the jute in areas where it might fall off if not held in place by something. ( like the tramsmission tunnnel and the areas behind the seats) Andrew

Kats Great pictures. I'm sure many people on this site will thank you for identifying how everything in the area behind the seats goes together on the early z's.:classsic: Andrew

Kats My car also was very slow to defrost. I had a half hour journey to work, and it was just a bout defrosted when I got there. Perhaps we expect too much from our 30 year old cars as new cars defrost very quickly. regards Andrew

I have been fortunate to drive 2 elises. (Guy at the end of my street owns a garage that specialises in them:classic: ) I drove one on the road recently and another a couple of years back at a company bash where I could drive a variety of cars around autotest stages and for a short while on a track. Can't afford one though Puts just about anything I have ever driven in the shade and not surprisingly totally blows a standard z away. Shame it is only 4 cylinder job though, I really miss that 6 cylinder sound. Best description I can give is similar to alfadogs - big go-kart or lotus seven. You will have to forego the creature comforts and the wet weather gear sucks. And don't crash one. Even low speed shunts cause a lot of damage. Perphaps they will junk the k series engine over here soon too as it is has an awful reputation once the car has done a medium amount of miles. I'd say if you can afford one go for it, and perhaps you may feel that you might never get the chance again ( assuming you might follow the ususal pattern of house/wife/kids = no money until you are about 45) but I have to add my 2c worth about making too many sacrifices now which perhaps you might regret in a couple of years time. Good luck if you get one. I will envy you :classic:

I would say that the sludge and muck that has built up in the engine over time is starting to dissolve into your oil. Most oils you can buy nowadays are 'detergent' oils that will slowly clean out the oilways. Is it using any oil or blowing it out of the engine breather? If the rings/bores are bad then piston blowby can contaminate the oil with combustion residue. If it is not using any oil then it is probably OK. I would keep changing the oil regularly and hopefully it will stay clearer for longer once the sludge buildup has gone. Hope it helps AndrewB

Dave/Daniel Good job:classic: Can you post some pictures of what you have done. I'm getting confused over which bits of the throttle linkage need to be changed/bent. Many thanks AndrewB

Proxlamus I understand it to mean 'New Old Stock'. Having said that I have never asked anyone else what they think it means :classic:

Must be a pretty good car if you are taking it back to the US with you.

St Stephen One upside of having the place to yourself is that you have a nice warm workshop to undertake any work on the z. ( Like - inside the house!!!). Is this enough to offset the lack of food?:classic: Andrew