abas

Joseph/Kats I came across a motorsport site ( haven't got the link at present as I found it at work) that sell the braided fuel and vaccum hose in red, blue and black. black looks a bit too dark, and red is of course no good, but the blue looks like quite a good approximation of the original grey. The only bummer is that they don't sell any big enough to do the rad hoses I will post the link when I'm back at work regards Andrew

26thz they went for $24.99 buy it now. Steal!!!! regards Andrew

26thz I was hoping someone with an early car might chip in as I didn't know what cars they went on. I saw them before they were sold but was going to check if they were original on the early cars. They went on a buy it now about 10 minutes later:cry: regards Andrew

Just a thought but are the door keys the same as the hatch on a 2+2? ( assuming of course that you have the door key and a previous owner hasn't changed them so that they are different to the hatch) Removing a door lock is a lot easier than removing a hatch lock, and an auto lock smith can make you up a key for the door lock which you might then be able to use on the hatch. You might however not want to go the the expense on a parts car and do what Gav says. edit: oops : do what MR CAMOUFLAGE says apologies to Mr Camouflage Hope it helps Andrew

Beandip the items on ebay were from seller rzola, and they were purchased on a buy it now almost as soon as they were listed, ( I was very tempted bby them) so you will need to check on completed items if you look now. This will at least give you a picture of the items ( if rzola is OK about you using it). hope it helps Andrew

Tezasz In my experience, on a series 1 car it is an a swine of a job to get the drain tubes inside the hatch to seal properly. From new they were stuck to the inside of the hatch with some sort of glue/sealant, which goes hard/brittle over the years and might be leaking. Not an easy job to sort out, especially as you need to remove the plastic hatch grilles which on my car were very difficult to remove without breaking off the mounting prongs. Hope it helps Andrew

I have to say Arch-z's red rb20 is one of my current favourites. I'm a bit of a purist so I don't go for anything that has wheel arch flares or really deep front spoilers. I normally like the deep dish wheel look but there is something about Arch-z's car that is just so right Andrew http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=10027

datto-zed It seems a lot of z's are worth more as spares than complete cars as there seem to be quite a few people who are breaking z's and ebaying the bits. Especially it seems the 2+2 as it is not seen as sporty as the 2 seater. Assuming Aussie market cars are pretty much the same as in the UK just a few of the most sought after bits off a 2+2 are the bits that will go on a 2 seater, I am thinking of: engine and gearbox r200 diff and mountings front wings cowl panel rear lights as you have said suspension and steering items dashboard I'm not sure about the hatch, but I know the doors are unique to the 2+2 there are probably a load of interior items that are interchangeable with 260z 2 seaters. If you are thinking about shipping abroad, I would think only smaller items would be practical due to the higher cost of international shipping. I thought there was still quite a lot of interest in z's still in OZ though. Surprisingly in the UK the 2+2 is becoming a lot more popular now as it is seen as a good 'family' compromise compared to the 2 seater, and as so many were broken up for spares there aren't many left. Just my opinion Andrew

OBSESSED My name is Andrew and I am a z-aholic. (I am glad I got that off my chest.):classic: POOR At least in financial terms.

Guess I should read the full post before jumping in:classic: Thinking about it I remember cutting the fuel clamps off my car with a hacksaw. Damn, blast, %$££$

Rob Automec in the UK are a good source of full/part sets of hard brake pipes in copper or copper/nickel. www.automec.co.uk best of luck and regards:classic: Andrew

Northern NJ Larry What I found was that there seemed to be a lot of outward pressure against the lock ring by the big rubber o ring that is under the sender that seals it to the tank, as well as the rust. I had the tank shotblasted first and a friend push against the lock ring to release the o-ring pressure whilst I tapped the against one of the lock ring prongs with a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. It worked for me, but the lock ring is pretty flimsy and bent easily. If you can get a replacement lock ring perhaps from Chloe it might be worth sacrificing it to remove the sender without damaging the tank/sender unit. Hope it helps regards Andrew

I too have given up looking for braided hoses. I have some used ones and some NOS ones but nowhere near the full set. As I am proposing to keep my z's long term I personally don't see the point, as what happens if you are lucky enough to have a full braided set and one needs to replaced in about 10 years time by which time braided hoses will probably be even rarer than they are now. I think I will go for the 'all rubber look' and sell the braided ones to partly offset the cost of other parts I am buying. This is just my opinion and my car is nothing special in the history of the z car, and I can fully understand the position of those of you with early vin number or other special interest cars who might be of the opinion that the braided look is the only way to go. I am surprised that the hose clamps are seemingly such a problem. Like 240 in OZ I have found that later model Nissans used the same clamps as the z series. One of my cars is a 1990 Nissan Micra, and I have swiped all the hose clamps from this car for use on my z's. Hopefully the same situation ocurred with later model Nissans in the US for you guys to take advantage of. regards Andrew

Chloe at midwestz got me squeegees some from VB. Haven't seen them yet though although Chloe tells me they are pretty much indistinguishable from originals. Can't remember how much they were but not cheap (like most things z related related nowadays? regards Andrew

Don't know about the part number, but Chloe at Midwestz has them for sale on their website. regards Andrew

Would removal of the vent tank be a problem for a US smog check? It does cut down emissions by recirculating petrol fumes into the crank case. I suppose a major benefit would have not having to replace as many of the extremely expensive fuel tank hoses.

For info UK 240z's had no evap tank from new. Just one tank vent pipe that vents into the filler neck, and a drain pipe from the filler neck to air. UK fuel tanks only have one vent pipe. This is what I am following for my 1970 ex US car as the plastic evap tank is brittle and cracked after 35 years. I have also removed the pipework from evap tank to engine block. for what its worth Andrew

great stuff Enrique, thanks again regards Andrew

Enrique Useful info, on a common problem. Nice one. Any thoughts on how to replace hinges without getting them out of alignment with each other? I suspect the ones on my car have been removed and replaced incorrectly by a previous owner as the bottom of the driver's door sticks out compared with the top. regards Andrew

I have square knobs on my choke/throttle, although like most here I would like the round ones. 26thz has mentioned the potential of moulding replicas of some of the other rarer plastic parts for the early cars, perhaps the round knobs could be a good candidate for this. regards to all Abas