abas

Alan Nice house. I particularly like the the patent pending interchangeable wall/window/roofing material that enables you to have your windows and doors where you like. :classic: I don't have any pictures of my house, but imagine something from the post-apocalyptic scenes from Terminator and you won't be far away!!!! Andrew

daftest thing I did was to assume that an empty shell didn't really weigh enough to need 4 axle stands. So I used 2 at the back and one under the front crossmember. A friend cam round and kind of half sat on one of the front corners of the car and it started to tip and slide over. Luckily I also do the same as Marty and had the wheels under the sills and so they took the fall.

When I bought my 1972 UK spec 240z in 1988 the splash pan car had no paint at all on it (just 16 years worth of heavy rust) As far as I can tell it had never been removed from the car either. All the others I have seen (very few have them) were painted black. Even on early cars.

Victor Use hands signals!!!! Seriously though, could you test the indicator switch ( a good candidate for the problem) by bridging the wires either side of the indicators to see if the indicator circuit operates OK without the switch. Andrew

Mark 1.25 is the thread pitch. I don't know whether that is coarse or fine, but the hardware shop should kmow what 1.25 thread is. regards Andrew

there is a similar discussion going on a motorbike mailing list I susbscribe to. In this case to do with derusting the inside of fuel tanks. One Intriguing rust removal method suggested is the submersion of items in molasses to remove all traces of rust.!!!! Seems to take quite a while though and pretty messy I would guess but could be useful for derusting nuts and bolts.

I take it the tonneau is like a luggage area cover?

Mark they are m10x1.25. I removed one from my 1970 and measured it:classic: Andrew

Just after I got my first z ( long time ago) I was pressing on down a little country lane, when the brakes were suddenly not stopping me any more, although the pedal was still firm. Anyways stopped to let things cool down, but it did not make any difference. Moral of this story is I had to drive some distance home with no brakes, and it shook me up pretty bad. I don't mess about where brakes are concerned anymore, both my z's have ALL new brake components (except front calipers) for when they return to the road. Turned out the previous owner had put some pads in that were off some economy car with nearly the same pad pattern, and had filed out the pad holes to make them fit. Couldn't cope with the weight/performance of the Z and presumably over heated the compound so much they didn't recover. :stupid: Scary!!!

240znz Do you have a picture of the hatch around the hatch grille hole on your car? I'd like to compare with mine, to see if there is anything different between the 2 cars. Thanks if you can help. Yep all z owners seem to have such a list of 'difficult' jobs. My whole car is on the list at present.:classic:

240znz This is a subject close to my heart. I've had the need to ask many of these questions on various forums and ususally get no replies. Here's what I know. 1) The drain tubes are not available new. If you find some, buy them!!!!:classic: 2) The grilles being made of plastic are very difficult to remove without breaking the mounting pins. As far as I know these were the only badges on the early 240z that were ALWAYS made of plastic. 3) The drain tubes on my 1970 240z are held in by 1) some sort of glue on the inside of the hatch and 2) by a metal clip that attaches them to the underside of the hatch hole that doubles ( on the outside of the hatch) as the hole into which the grille pins clip into. On my car the holes IN THE HATCH ITSELF are too big and this clip has a smaller hole for the grille pins to go into. The reason why I have a problem is that I am missing 2 of the clips ( there are 2 for each vent) and as such can't attach one of the grilles on the hatch. And of course I can't get any replacements. I am assuming that what is on my z is the same as all early z's. Of this I can't be sure. To get back to your problem:classic: Don't try to remove the drain tubes without checking whether you have clips underneath the grilles first, and remove them if they are there. ( you mentioned you had already removed one of the grilles if the clips are there they should be on either end of the hatch hole) If you try to remove the drain tubes without removing the clips you will probably break the clips and the drain tubes. As you have mentioned most drain tubes are now getting very brittle from UV and age. phew!!!! Hope it helps. Let me know how you progress.

Lance is your 240z on coilovers or original struts? I ask only as 235 width sounds quite wide on a 240z with no mods.

The UK seems to be suffering the inevitable effect on the cost of living of having 1/4 of the population of the USA living in an area the size of Texas. And in London multiply that by a factor of probably 3 again. From a comparison of UK vs USA perhaps the middle earner income figure isn't so different, but that the cost of living in the USA APPEARS ( in my fairly uninformed opinion) to be less. I am basing this on 1) price of fuel in the USA is about 1/3 what it is UK 2) Things I buy for my Z from the US are regularly cheaper to buy from the US even after factoring in shipping to the UK, VAT(taxes), duty and whatever else I get charged for. Hardly a thorough cost of living comparison I know but thats my experience AndrewB

Seems we get paid about the same as you guys over here in the UK but our fuel is US$5.70 a gallon.!!!! I'm spending on 2 z's at the moment. Somehow I feel better having those bits than the money in the bank, so I must be truly Z obsessed. :classic:

Mike Coming to this a bit late like, but when was the last time you visited the UK? I don't know anyone who doesn't have a dishwasher. !!!!!!!!!! Can't vouch for the rest of Europe though.

Hi guys/gals I'm trying to ascertain how to go about overboring my 240z engine to take 280z piston, like rebello do. I'd be interested in any experiences re compression ratios (e31 head) and whether I need to change the conrods (I have the early thinner bolt ones) and any piston height problems etc Thanks for any help.

My 240z is April 1970 and the overriders have 3 bolts and one rubber nipple holding the rubber to the guard. I don't however know whether the rubbers are the original.

26-thz do you know what year z those ebay pictures came from? I might be wrong but I thought the earlier cars' rear shelf jute was different as the plastic stowage compartments were in the way.

Kats that's a great looking interior you have there!!! I agree with the cut for the section that goes under the seat. Can't comment on the front footwells or the rear deck unfortuately. You may already know this but there was a jute section behind the rear seat that goes part way up onto the stowage shelf. Mine from my 4/70 are pretty ragged but I might be able to ascertain the original cut if you can't get it from anywhere else. Is that jack holding clip the original? Mine is different ( made mostly of rubber) whereas yours seems to be all metal.

I'm no expert, and I can't remember where I heard this but as the bottom line of the 'E' on the head marking on the spark plug side of the head is very close to the head gasket flange, it is possible that if the head has been shaved that this lower line will have been lost. So if the head marking on your E31 says 'F31' then it is almost definitely been shaved by a considerable amount. If it has only been shaved a small amount and the head still says E31 then this will not of course work.!!!! Hope it helps