abas

Chad Sept 1978 is an early 'T' reg plate. This registration ususally stays with the car for its whole life whilst in the UK. Changes of engine don't affect this. From this I would say that the production date for your car is likely to be June/July 1978. I don't know what model year that makes it. I'd be interested if anyone else comes up with a different date. If the engine shown on the DVLA V5 is different from the engine in the car then the DVLA number will probably be the original (no-one ever tells the DVLA if they change an engine in a car!!) this might give a more accurate indication of production date. Hope it helps AndrewB

the barracuda I am assuming you bought the car with a V5 (blue regsitered title form you get from the UK DVLA). You can apply for one if you don't have it. It should give a date of first registration and 'normally' (although not always) this is a couple of months or so after the production date. Does the registration end in an R, S or a T?. This gives the year in which it was registered. Gav 240z is correct in that no UK cars have the production plate on the door panel. all the best

$700+ each!!!! For the truly committed only or for a very special car where total originality is paramount. Way too much to pay for 'just in case I crash my car' spares.

I work in the steel 'erection' business. The only industry I have ever worked in where you can say the word 'erection' in a room full of people and nobody bats an eyelid.:classic:

I 'vented' the crankcase on a motor bike I had that had knackered rings. The pipe exited out the back by the number plate. The smoke was so bad I ended up getting car drivers leaning out of the window and telling me my bike was on fire ( like in the John Candy film - Uncle Buck):classic: Why didn't I replace the rings? I'm a cheapskate - except where it comes to z's.

Kyteler Escort Mk11 - my first car. Where I learnt about oversteer and 'tuning' (in the loosest sense of the word). As a general knockaround fun car it couldn't be beat.:classic: I'll stop hijacking this thread now:classic: Andrew

St. Stephen Jesus. I'll never complain about the rust on my 1972 z ever again. :classic:

My 1972 z (that I was going to scrap - but not any more!!!) had similar covered up accident damage on the front left corner. What the previous owner had done was drilled a new set of holes in the inner wing to locate the headlamp pod so that it lined up with the bonnet. This repair did for some 10 years before I took the front wings off and discovered the damage. Incidentally those wheels are the same as what came on my 1970 car. I wasn't going to use them but they actually look pretty good.:classic: Hope you manage to keep the car away from the scrapyard. There are too many heading that way:cry: Andrew

Guys At last I've got the replacement plastic tool boxes that I got off ebay. The seller decided to ship them surface mail (6 weeks!!) despite him charging me for air mail. Hmmmm........ As promised I'll post up some pictures of original/replacement as soon as I can. What I can say at present is that: 1) replacement plastic is thicker/more flexible (good) 2) replacement doesn't include the plastic hinges (bad unless you have a broken original set to take the hinges from 3) Grain/contour etc looks the same as original ( good) Andrew

Nick Looks pretty standard to me. Virtually the same welds on my unrestored car. That's a pretty good original inner arch if you ask me, if the paint is mostly still there under the dirt. Over here in Pomland we got a black underseal coating in the wheel arches and on the floorpans ( fat lot of good it did though .) My ex US CA car has no undercoating at all just paint and 30+ years of dirt all the best Andrew

One of the 'European' contingent here. Although I think the rest of Europe would agree that the UK is not really part of Europe after all :classic: I'm close to the South Coast of the UK, but far enough away to avoid the salt air. Only 150-200 240z's left in the whole of the UK and so I tend to see one about every 2 years or so unless I go to a club meet:cry:

Kats I'll clean it up a bit and make sure it has no damage. It looked pretty good despite the dirt and cobwebs. regards Andrew

my 1970 z has the plain 'oil' cap on the nissan 2400 ohc valve cover.

OK, not in a film as such but I did see some TV footage a few years back showing someone stealing a tank from the US army and driving it around squashing cars and things. There was a shot of a z (can't tell which) which had been squashed from front to rear. It looked about 2 feet high !!!! Andrew

Kats picture number 3 Let me know what you think regards Andrew

Kats picture number 2

Kats pictures as requested. Apologies for the delay.

Apologies for the dimness of this reply but do the SU's on z's have rubber vaccum diaphrams inside the 'dome'. ??? I've never actually taken one apart. I had a car that had stromberg carbs (which are like SU's) which had a rubber vacuum diaphram inside the dome. If this split or was replaced incorrectly it would give that same 'rev-limiter' at 3000 rpm feel that KEINsm is experiencing. Hope it helps Andrew

I would also (as you say ) remove the rocker cover and oil the cam lobes. They get pretty dry if not started for 6 months. AndrewB

datto-zed paid far too much for mine given that it had a blown engine, and I also was given the choice at the time to buy a nice running z that was was a much later (and more expensive) auto 240z. But I wanted a no rust early 1970 car so I bought the non runner. That was 12 years ago and I have not driven a z since then. I often think how much fun driving I have missed out on by buying a non runner, which I have not had time to do anything much with since then. I have been tempted to try and sell it to buy a runner, but it was however the last car I viewed with my Dad, indeed viewing the car was the last time I went anywhere with my Dad before he died, so I have a heavy sentimental attachment to it, despite my Dad telling me in no uncertain terms that I had bought a pile of shite. :classic: Still hopefully I am on the upward curve now and with Chloe's(Midwestz) help I might have a runner in a couple of years!!! :classic: I hope your car get sorted soon, and that you can look back and smile over the experience!!!! ( Easier said than done) Andrew

Owen Do you know if Arnie could ever get to be Vice president? Zero Z content I know but hey.....:classic: Andrew

Carl at least you can relax in the knowledge that he can never be president ( if my understanding of the US constitution is correct) :classic: Andrew

kats I have one superspeed 20 bridgestone 175sr14 like the ones you are looking for. It is the spare from my car which is April 1970. It has only been on the car once since I have had it and apart from dirt and cobwebs it seems to be in good condition. I will clean it up and check on its condition for you, with picture if you want. I'm more than happy to help if you want it that badly.!!!! all the best Andrew

page can't be displayed:cry: boo-hoo!!! I'll try again later

Hi all I been offered a 3.70 r200 diff and gearbox from a 1975/6 260z2+2, as replacements for the 3.90 diff and 5 speed from my 1972z ( which have gone elsewhere). Question I have is will the 260z 2+2 mustache bar and other mounting hardware fit onto the 2 seater OK. ( I ask as it is usually assumed that the r200 comes from a 280z and I do not know whether a 280z has the same mounting hardware as a 260z 2+2) thanks for any help