texasz

Generally putting in an '81-'83 280ZX Turbo engine will be what you are looking for but what you DON'T want is the P90a head! I think that these were only in the '83s so what this really means is that you will be looking for an '81-'82 280ZX Turbo engine, this will have the P90 head which is said to be the best flowing head and all three years have the F54 block wich is considered the best block by most. The difference is that the P90a went to hydrolic lifters and they are crap (from what everyone says...and I do mean everyone). After that there are other mods you can do but I do not know anything about these as I am focused on a carbed non-turbo car and have not investigated your choice.

Just so everyone knows, this guy has been selling these on ebay for the past couple weeks. I don't know how much longer he will be selling them though.

What does this software do or classic Z car owners?

For Z cars the names to know for parts are as follows: Victoria British (commonly know as VB) - www.victoriabritish.com Motorsport (commonly know as MSA) - www.zcarparts.com Zed Findings (great for floorboards among other things) - www.datsunzparts.com Midwest Z - www.midwestz.com Z Parts - www.zparts.com Z Therapy (THE place for rebuilt and performance carbs, etc) - www.ztherapy.com Z Barn - http://zbarn.com Among many, many others who's links are located in the 'LINKS' section of this site. The ones I have listed are probably the most popular from what I can remember at the moment (if anyone is missing please do not be offended I'm working from memory only). Welcome to the group and enjoy your Z!! This is the nicest most helpful Z site I have found yet!

I saw these a couple days ago and noticed that the seller said his reserve is $800 which he states as the retail price when they were available.

If the right signal is not working but the left is would this be a fuse, a bulb, or a wire problem? It does not blink on the dash. I remember seeing something that may have been s tiny bit of smoke from the left side of the steering column several weeks ago when I had used the turn signals. Maybe a wire has melted. If this is the case are the signal switched the same from '70 on up at least to '73? I have a '70 car that this is not working in and a '73 parts car I can pull the signal switch from. On this note are the light/wiper combo switches the same also?

Eric, I do not have any information for you but I do have a question. What does all the information you listed here mean??? Does it matter what time of day it is? JK Serioursly though, what does all the info you posted mean?

As I understand it you should be getting about 170 in all cyls. This is what I recall being told here a few months back. 100 is low.

A big "thank you" to 2many and Ben for helping identify the diff I asked about.

Does this appear to be an R180? It is said to have come out of a '78 Fairlady Z and be a 4.11 ratio.

Ok, so all I got to this weekend was the hatch window seal. Not difficult just a bit of time (about 2-3 hours for someone who has never done one before and was working slowly and carefully). The tips about using the silicone spray were great, that stuff is slick and made getting the seal to seat much easier. I do, however, still need to know how to attack the inner and outter hatch seal. I see where they go but how are they held in place? Is it just by using that black goopy stuff in the tube that came with them or what?

Anyone...please??? I want to do this over the weekend.

I believe that I will be passing on these Bambi, I was already leaning that way since he could not confirm anything about the brand or style. Yes, patience is what got me the car I have for the great price I paid. I will just keep looking and if I do not find the right pair by the time I have other things done and am ready to start autoxing then I will have to pay out for the new set. Thank you and everyone for helping out. I may (most likely) be asking more about sway bars along the way.

I'm with Bambi, I too am flattered. However, there are many here that know FAR more then me. I've only been hanging around on this board since about 1/03 and just bought my first Z in 6/03 so I have a LOT to learn still. Anyhow, thank you for the compliment. As with others here I agree, read up on zhome.com and you will know about as much as the rest of us on this topic. That is where I gained most of my knowledge about what series is what. The rest you will pick up along the way. I have the following: HLS30-08215 8/70 1971 Model year My seats are the old style NOT flip Forward Gas Door latch Hatch vents Verticle defroster lines 240Z pillar emblems E31 head NISSAN 2400 - OHC valve cover Flapper style air cleaner (has Summer/Winter settings) NO pockets for seat belt retractors These are many/most, if not all, of the distingushing items on a Series I. I only wish my title said '70.

The pair in the last pic I have attached above is available to me for $100 so if they are the ST or Ground Control brand I will get them. The problem is that the seller does not know nor has he ever installed them so he does not know how they attach either. This is becoming painful.

Ok, I'm back and trying to determine the manufacturer of the sway bars in this pic. I found these for sale and the owner does not know anything about them. I'm trying to avoid drilling the chassis to install a rear sway bar, that's why I am asking. I'm also curious which one is the front and which is the rear? Finding the right sway bars should not be this hard! :stupid: :cross-eye

Anyone, anyone??? I have a couple that I have located and need to confirm that they are the right one. Is there a casting code on the diff case that would help at all?

Why not just go with an L28 instead of trying to bore out an L24 to this size? It would probably be cheaper, easier, and yield better results especially if you go with a modified P90 or stock N42 head on the F54 block. In fact the L28 can be bored to a 3.1 and has been done many times. This seems to be a good powerful setup. Just a thought...

I have the rubber kit from VB and it came with two tubes of the black goopy stuff. My car does not have the outter seal, only the inner one that goes all the way around the hatch opening. My questions are how do I attach both the inner and outter seals to the car? And does anyone have any pix of the outter seal (the horseshoe shaped one) so I get the installation correct? I will also be replacing the hatch window seal but already know how to install it...unless anyone has any additional tips (other than install the chrome trim before installing the window into the hatch, use silicone spray to help lube the seal so that it installs easier, use weadeater line to 'pull' the lip around the hatch wrapping it 3 times or so around the seal, and of course having an extra pair of hands to help so that I do not break the glass).

Thank you 2many, again you are a wealth of information. Slightly different question...Is there a casting code or something on the R180 that indicates it is an R180 and not an R200? This would need to hold true for all the R180s since I'm seeking one that is not from a Z. I'm looking for the 3.9 R180 from the front of a 1/83 -6/83 Datsun 720 4x4 truck.

GREAT!! Thank you, now I will know what to look for when searching for a 3.9 R180 in the junk yards.

I have read a lot of posts talking about oversteer and understeer. What do these mean???

Can anyone tell me how to read the ring stamp to tell what the ratio is on an R180?

At a glance the reserve price of $5000 seems to be much too high. They are listing 88250 miles but this could be 188250 or even 288250, it's hard to tell (my odmeter reads 59000 but I'm quite sure that it's over 100000). This car is not even a series I 240Z. Mine is a series I, needs some work but only cost $1500. He also has it listed with power steering and power breaks...not unless someone has done some modifications to the car it doesn't have these things. Just my 2 cents worth.