texasz

OMG what the hell happened to that poor Z!? 😞

That's the way I recall several others describing how to do this job several years ago @Persimmon240

That seems like an easy change to reverse should you ever decide you wanted to. I'd go for it if that is what you want. Unfortunately I cannot answer the rest of your questions as all I have is series 1 seats so nothing I can go look at or take pictures of.

@Sean Dezart, already having the MSA 6-1 header I'm curious if your system would work for me (by system I mean from the header back including the JDM muffler)?

Ah perfect, thank you @SteveJ, I was not sure what to call them when searching...seems quite obvious now.

I'm looking at getting the ANSA Twin Stack from here: https://dpangt.com/store/ (scroll down the page about 1/3 of the way to get to this item). Any experience? Thoughts? Opinions? I already have the MSA 6-1 ceramic coated header with the 2.5" outlet.

Do you happen to have a source for these (a link would be awesome!)?

Where did those come from? There are a couple places that you can go as I recall. Banzai Motorworks being one of them.

@siteunseen, do you have any information on the gasket...specifically the different material around the exhaust ports???

It sticks in my mind that people also have used an RX7 electric fuel pump on a 240Z with good results, that may be worth searching and reading about unless anyone here has first hand experience.

I bought a 240Z a while back that had a tow hitch on it, here's the only picture I seem to have of the tow hitch. Looks to be the same as @zKars'.

@EuroDat, I have not picked up the slave yet as I will be replacing the engine/transmission after the brake work is complete and I'll work on the clutch slave at that time. I will likely use the later slave, I'll be running a later model 5-speed (either from a 280Z or 280ZX, I have not decided which one yet).

I certainly took great care in the rod measurement/adjustment. I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QGXY55/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 On the booster it came with a new pin for attaching to the brake pedal.

No! I wish I had know (remembered) about that before placing orders...I've ordered a few things from them over the past few months (this item, header, fuel pump for example). 😞

I've heard good things from many people over the years about them...I hope my experience is better than yours was. We shall have to wait and see.

I am also putting Speed Bleeders everywhere! On the front calipers, rear wheel cylinders, brake master cylinder, and so on.

Oh yes, and here's the clutch master cylinder I decided upon and am just waiting on it to arrive. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-2091

Here's where I landed on the brake stuff...I got the Wilwood 1" master and an 8.5" booster with a conversion mounting kit to prevent modifying the firewall. Here's a link to the booster for anyone interested: https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/datsun-240z-8-5-inch-brake-booster-upgrade-kit-for-1969-1972?variant=2376693317641 I'm keeping all the original parts in case I want to revert back to stock at some point so thank you for the tip on who can rebuild the booster. Here's a picture of the brake items ready to be installed after I address the clutch master cylinder.

That is really interesting, great idea!

As I prepare to replace my clutch master cylinder I thought of a question. What fluid should we be using for the clutch system in our Z cars? Just regular old brake fluid? I've got a couple bottles of Red Line RL-600 full synthetic brake fluid DOT4 that I'm going to put in the brake system...is that good for the clutch system also?

This is good reference though a good point was just brought up. If these are the same as what they were in the '70s they may not be good for today's fuels with higher ethanol content. This may be worth researching.

@motorman7 and @Yarb, that is kinda what I was thinking...especially since it looks be be much easier than the brake work I'm already doing. 🙂

I have just read that when replacing the clutch master it is recommended to also replace the clutch slave. I see two different clutch slaves available. I am guessing you match up the slave to the year tranny you have rather than the chassis right?

I have been in the process of doing a lot of brake work and was working on replacing the brake booster and master cylinder today. Once the old units were out of the car I was able to get a good look at the clutch master and I'm concerned. First off, the reservoir is bone dry, then it looks a little rough around the master cylinder and lastly it looks like it may have been leaking on the inside of the car. It is really hard to tell since the brake master cylinder seems to have been leaking based upon the condition of the under side of the booster and the inside of the firewall. Pix of everything below. What do you guys think?

Slide the seat all the way forward, recline the set forward as well...this will give you your best access. It is challenging no doubt. Slide your fingers under and feel around to get the nut started, you will be doing this blind as there's no way to be able to see what you are doing under there unfortunately. Once you get it finger tight use a combination wrench to tightening it down. This is about the best description I can think of right now. Hope this helps.