Jarvo2

I'm running early Miata seats which fit great after I fabricated a better mounting approach without sliders. The fit in the cockpit well and are very comfortable.

I love these SU carbs and have rebuilt many sets over the past couple years. Happy to help out fellow enthusiasts! Its fun turning beat up and worn out examples and refurbishing them. Here are some before & after pics...

'72 are cone shaped. Agree with everything that Capn' Obvious stated. On several sets that I've rebuilt I've had to knock off the nubs as well as tighten/loosen the dome screws at different intervals to get it to line up correctly to prevent interference.

The writeup on zhome.com seems to be the best out there (thanks Carl!). Here's a link to the page directly: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ZXPertronix.htm I'm running this setup in my '72 without any issues.

Stanley -- Did you scrap and/or try to remove any of the crap that is baked onto the interior of the floorpan before your rolled material went on? I'm planning out my interior renovation and debating how much to strip it down.

If you're going through the pain of replacing the weatherstriping, I'd suggest get something new as that looks like it will continue to deteriorate over the next couple of years.

Don't forget about the crap baked onto the interior floor pan as a sound deadner. I've heard you need to use dry ice to crack it off!

Regardless of what is used, grease the heck out of it! I even sprayed silicon lubricant into the cable housing. The Piano wire seems to be more flexible than lawnmower cable, so it'll pull/push smoother.

My car rarely sees any precipitation, so I'm not worried about the steel wire -- my guess is that's what the original was too. Keeping it well greased helps too.

Last night I replaced the choke (cold start) cables for the carburetors. They need to slide freely and after 44 years of usage and most likely never being lubricated since new, it was time. After doing some research I found that 0.055" Piano wire is the best option for replacement as its affordable and able to push and pull, which is required. I also have more than enough left over and only paid $4.60.After disconnecting the cables from the carbs and pulling the center console apart, I removed the cables from inside the cabin, then measured the length needed. I left myself an extra foot before I cut the Piano wire. I bent it around the mounting plate and then lubed it very very very good before fishing it back into the housing and reconnecting. I'm very pleased with the results!Link to Piano Wire used:http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M3JQGC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Try McMaster Carr, they've got the best selection. Here are a bunch of pictures that might help in your journey:

Fully disassembled, inspected, and rebuilt to factory specifications set of early Datsun 240z 4-screw Hitachi SU Carburetors, E88 intake manifold, balance tube, heat shield, springs, linkage, linkage to the firewall and air filter housing with OEM Nissan air cleaner/filter. As an option, you may choose the customer K&N filter setup instead of the OEM orange filter setup, or have both for an additional $50. Domes and pistons are polished and bodies have been painted with high-temp Eastwood fuel-resistant paint and baked to cure. Also included is a Vacuum gauge installed on the balance tube to help diagnose engine problems and tune the carburetors This is a perfect kit for the 260z and 280z owners who want to upgrade to the reliable and high performance round-top carbs. Ready to bolt on and begin using! Professional installation is recommended as fine tuning may be required depending on the condition of your engine, gasoline used, and other variables not related to the carburetors. As with anything that is 43+ years old, these are not perfect but are great performers. This set is being sold as-is for $750, shipped anywhere in the USA. PayPal friendly and ready to ship within 1 business day of payment. More Pictures @ http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/10/240z-round-top-carburetor-kit-for-sale.html .

only the float (rubber) itself is cracked. The bowl is in great condition. I believe its for the right carb (closest to the firewall). Happy to ship just the bowl to you for $35 via paypal.

Vacuum emission device has been sold, everything else is still available. Need a single part, let me know & we'll work out a deal!!

I let this beauty go a couple years ago for $800. Glove-box mounted. radio & 8-track. Also included a set of rear speakers that mounted over the taillight access panels.

Lot of miscellaneous hitatchi SU carburetor parts. Includes float bowl, 3 screw carb body, 3 screw dome top, 4 screw carb body, 4 screw dome top, 2 Pistons, 2 nozzles, 2 SM needles, 3 needle valves, cracked float, and miscellaneous throttle openers. All have been ultrasonic cleaned and degreased. What ya see is what ya get! All being sold as is. $100 OBO free shipping!

Here's the approach that I took with my '72 240z.

Wow 26th-Z, yours is in much better shape than mine was!

I had an original and sold it a couple years ago for about $450. Here are some more detailed pictures.

I'm on the same page, looking to built my own as well. I'm actually debating about just building a body stand rather than a rotisserie. Here's some pictures I've acquired throughout my travels & planning. Sounds like the cheapo harbor freight engine stands need to be increased in height to allow for full rotation. I've also seen some cheapo wooden rollers but that doesn't look too stable. Also check out the great info (PDF) from the Atlantic Z Club. Rotissary.pdf

I agree, I like the contrasting color. I'm hoping once my car is ready for paint to match my BRE Spoiler color to the small bump-up section of my hood in a flat black.

it'll be a little harder to push the brake pedal, but you'll still be able to stop. I wouldn't drive it for 100's of miles with the booster blocked off, or in heavy traffic, but certainly for diagnostic purposes, its the easiest thing to try!

I used the poly replacement & its a very stiff feeling now. Strongly suggest trying to get a rubber part if you can chase one down. My original was way too worn, so I needed to replace it & had the poly on hand.

Here's my adventures with replacing my brake booster... http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/10/brake-booster.html

PM Sent (Vinyl)