grannyknot

Sean, although every exhaust system needs to be tweaked when installing you make a good point that there is no mention by the dealers of possible installation problems when an R200 diff has been swapped in. It is a very popular modification so it should be acknowledged. I know the guys at Whitehead Performance so contacted them and mentioned this thread, they have added this to their product description, R200 Note: Any car that has an R200 diff installed 240z 260Z or 280Z may require further alterations to clear the R200 diff. We have successfully fit every Fujitsubo exhaust on all 240Z or 280Z cars with an R200 diff installed. Bending of the exhaust, bending of the hangers, cutting/shaving of the left rear corner of the diff case may be needed to gain proper clearance

Interesting, maybe they just decided that the thicker nut was safer, anyway, you did a nice job on the resto.

Jim, I only know this because I just did it, I think at least two of those nuts need to be the narrow kind so they don't interfere with the the U joint.

I would be tempted to just leave it with the cork with a sealing coat of some kind to keep the stains off, looks really good.

Blue, is that David Carradine? Death Race 2000? Gun holster and shoe polish, makes sense. There is a bit of spare leather on the back of the door panel I can experiment with.

Nice going @LeonV , wouldn't we all like to get a chance to talk to the PO

I built mine for $170 CND

@Careless came over a few hours ago and helped me put the headliner in, nerve wracking! But it looks great, thanks Raff Most of the mat is in now, picked up the insulation the other day, Here's a problem I need to figure out, the door leather is duller and less shiny than the rest of the leather interior, anyone know of a product that will give leather a shinier surface?

If that roll bar ever has to do its job of protecting you it will be in compression, that is, pushing down on those wheel wells so there is a valid argument for welding that plate on top of the wheel well just as you did. If it were mine I would weld much larger support plates on top and underneath the wheel well to spread out the force of impact. Will you still be able to use the seat belt pockets?

Body colour, it is no longer a commoner, it's a princess now.

Nice garage! All kinds of beauties in there.

I think mine are probably just " fine Pakistani leather " but I just hope they match up with the rest of the leather interior. I bought the door skins on ebay before I knew that Interior Innovations also made them.

Well it took a year but they are done, I took them to a local auto upholstery shop and had them done cause I don't have what it takes. The door cards themselves are a bit wavy but once the arm rest and handles are gone I think they are going to look great.

Jean, they look beautiful, let us know how they run.

The first car I ever restored was a 1966 Mustang coupe, midnight blue, lost my shirt when I sold it but it was fun.

OK Philip, I don't get it, what is the R for? Finally got the valve cover back from the powder coater so polished up the lettering and coated it with Sharkhide, new gaskets, new SS acorn nuts,

Wow, that is pretty close match. Progress has slowed considerably now that I'm back at work but have manged to get the fuel and brake lines in, parking brake mechanism, gas tank and fuel pump in. Next job the headliner - no mistakes allowed. This pic is for @zKars, This pic is for @Blue is now 240260280, as you can see I still haven't figured out the white balance

Looks good, if you hit that with a high gloss clear you should be able to get a fairly close match to the shine on the rest of the car.

Oooh you bought those new interior plastic panels, will be very interested to hear what you have to say about them, re fit and finish.

^ You know I'm not sure why OER/SK triples haven't caught on more than they have, they are easier to adjust and tune than Webers with the external float adjustment and external accelerator pump screws. Although there can be some confusion with the original emulsion tubes and jets that the early models were equipped with they will also accept any of the the Weber e-tubes and jets so that problem can be avoided. They offer a kit to reverse the direction of the 'choke' pull and a kit to fuel inject them if you want to. They are not cheap, that's draw back. I don't have my set anymore but was very pleased with them. @Blue is now 240260280 knows as much or more than anyone about SKs

Oh Boy, this is not good. Glad that you can catch it in time.

The body line that you are working on at the moment, doesn't it fade off into the curve from the wheel and then pick up again on the other side of the wheel well? At least on my Z which has had the fenders repaired the body line comes off the door, extends 3-4" onto the dogleg area then flows into the curve of the wheel and then is re established again on the rear of the wheel well and runs to the back of the car. OR it could be my car that is wrong.

+1 on the 3m double sided automotive foam tape, incredibly strong.

The new brake package looks great and I'm sure will stop you on a dime but is there a significant weight gain with the new brakes? They just look so big, are they also heavy?

Thank you boys, I appreciate it. Most paint shops take months and months to get the car done so I really wasn't planning on having it back in three weeks flat, it's great I'm not complaining, I just didn't think I would be turning the key until Sept. at the earliest. Could be next week if I drink enough coffee