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I put this Exedy in mine EXEDY 06009 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive It shifts nice and smooth but I don't know if it's by "design" or not but I can't chirp the tires between 1st & 2nd like my previous 2 Z's would do fairly easily. I have 1500 miles on a good rebuild that runs strong. Maybe it's the cheapest Exedy clutch I could afford at the time? Maybe new tires? Maybe I'm getting old! Whichever, learn from my mistake and spend some extra $$

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/46362-my-datsun-spirit-l28-build-4.html Post #86

The good thing is the being dis-interested doesn't last long.

I use the remote starter on hot valve adjustment, I leave the plugs in though because it does spin too fast without them. I guess I'm the only dumb butt on here that's done it but the first few times I pointed the lobes straight up without considering the engine is leaning to the passengers side. I finally made center marks on the cam towers with a Sharpie to go by. When I did my compression test, spark plugs out now, for the first time I didn't have the throttle plate open then I read it should be so I used a zippy-tie or 2 where the linkage starts on the firewall to hold it open, I guess a brick would've been too easy, it raised my numbers and I'm sorry I don't remember which but it was 10 or 20 lbs on each, probably 10, but like Chas says it's the difference between them that's important, gauges lose their accuracy after you drop them a few times :stupid:. Buy a vacuum gauge while your buying, they are a lot of fun. The remote starter goes straight to the battery and starter, it won't turn on anything but the starter. Oh yea, you'll definately need a 17mm crows foot socket for the valve adjustment. Autozone has a metric set cheap and they also sale the remote starter cheap. I ordered my vacuum gauge from walmart.com, it will tell a lot about your motors worn-outness.

Sorry I couldn't find the thread on those. Seems like LeonV talked about one.

I didn't on mine, just cleaned the flywheel with steel wool and some fine grit sandpaper. Took the shine off the mating surface.

I feel like I just had a beer with you guys. Thank you.

Here you go, step by step with pictures...http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/articles-our-members/42420-77-280z-head-removal-%5Bstep-step-photos%5D.html

On mine there's 3 sensors and a plugged hole, one of the one's your asking would be to the temp. gauge, small wire with a female bullet type connector. here's some pictures that may help...https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=280z+thermostat+housing&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.45107431,d.eWU&biw=1280&bih=620&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=AY5mUYuvFor49QSkoYH4BQ#imgrc=_

Thank you Jeff, I don't want to mess with the 240, it's part of my 401K. EDIT: Thank you too Steve, I wasn't sure about the pump. I've got Weber's and will probably get a Holley Blue.

Could I put a carbureted motor in my '77 280 and disconnect the ECU and harness, leaving it in the car? Does the ECU control more than the engine?

Malibud, could you please give out John Williams info, phone # or website? I'm closer to the Big A myself and have only heard of Eddie Radatz in Kennesaw. Thanks for any info. Cliff

I saw one of these at a yard sale Saturday and had to make one. Knock a couple of slats off the pallet for the bottoms then cut off all the rest. With a sawz-all and a nail gun it took 20 minutes to figure it out and make. More room for Z parts now.

I put an Exedy in mine when I rebuilt the motor. The throw out bearing made a little noise when disengaged but the sound went away after a month or so, very happy with the clutch. I did not replace the rear transmission seal, $3, and it dripped so I had to remove the drive shaft to replace it. I got in a hurry. Tom Monroe says to make the Pilot Bearing "sweat" by holding it with your thumb and 1st finger and filing with oil then squeeze until you see it sweat the oil out, kinda neat how it does it. Have fun!

I've gotten many parts and tools from amazon.com for my engine rebuild. I too prefer them over ebay, never paid a shipping charge, it's always been priced more than their $25 minimum or I guess I've always made it priced more than $25. Easy to do! No hassle or charge if you have to return something.

Or this?

I too have to choose.

I bought a '72 with Dealer installed air. I never use it but everyone that sees it always comment on the fact it has the complete system, so I'm assuming it's a pretty good addition. I guess I'll know for sure if I ever sale it. I'd keep it.

I like the original stripes on mine but the ones they sale now I do not like, the ones that have the open block style "240Z". So when I can afford to repaint it'll be stripe-less. No more Starsky & Hutch. :disappoin

I agree but reality is not appropriate right now. Sorry 5th. Give Ruger a hug for us.

I'm sorry for your loss. R.I.P Pete.

Mine is 305 and it looks Ed Zachary like the one on the right. Have you seen this? http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html EDIT: This isn't mine but it's twin.

I've had a couple of 4 ankle fusions over the years and get laid up for 9 months at least after the surgeries. After the 2nd one I found out that you read your prescriptions backwards, Dyslexic style, TAKE 4 EVERY 1 HOURS, wash em down with that whine.

1st half of the eighties too, damn Nancy Reagan.

On my '77 they are the same. You get a good deal off ebay with connectors and heat shrink to cover the solder. He has kits of 6 and 10, don't forget the cold start valve. http://www.ebay.com/itm/injector-connector-kit-6pc-datsun-280z-280zx-300zx/290452375892?ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1&ih=019&category=33553&cmd=ViewItem