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Cheapskate Paint Job


ninjazombiemaster

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I didn't follow your link - the work firewall doesn't like it. I'm assuming that it's a roller job, based on the fifty dollar price quote.

Here is a link to the biggest thread ever that seemed to have sparked all this roller business and was discussed in detail on hybridz. It's a mopar site, but the info is great. It's a HUGE post and will take you a long, long time to read - but you probably should go through all of it before you decide on technique and paint.

moparts: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44............

I'll be doing a roller job in white using Interlux marine paint. Unfortunately, the shop will have my car for at least another couple of weeks while I wait for my new EGR tube, so it might have to wait til next year.

It's also worth noting that it will cost a fair bit more than 50 bucks in total. 50 for paint sounds about right, but rollers, mineral spirits, sandpaper, sanding block or power sander, polisher, polishing compound - it adds up.

I've decided on Interlux paint because Brightside does in 3 coats what Rustoleum does in 7 - it takes longer to cure, so I'm hoping to manage a coat every other week. We'll see how it goes once I actually start on it.

Edit: Actually, I think I've seen the page you're pointing to while I was doing my research from home - if it's the car with the blue stripes, that's the one that really got me thinking about this as being viable. It takes a lot of time and elbow grease to achieve what he managed, however.

Edited by Virto
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Thats correct. Most of what I read suggests it costs around $200 to complete a car. Still beats the $1,200 my buddy quoted me for a repaint. And that's the friend price.

Indeed it is the blue and white striped car. I was skeptical until I saw its results, and the update on how it looked after 3 years. I was skeptical on how glossy and smooth it could be, and how it'd hold up. That car looked fantastic.

The job wouldn't be in the near future for me, since I don't have a garage atm, or a second car. But its definitely something I'd consider.

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You make up the price with the labor. It's all about how much your time is worth. I don't have much spare cash, so my choice is easy, LOL. Under the right circumstances, I'd prefer a sprayed pro-level job over something like this, but I can't afford it and my existing paint is horrible - spotted and gritty. It needs to go.

The main issue that I'll be dealing with is that I share a 3-car garage and my upstairs neighbors are, frankly, idiots. I'll need to hang plastic roof to floor to avoid them stirring up dust and crap.

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The link worked fine for me, very interesting read. Noteworthy update at the top of the page about marine paint now being the product of choice - I suspect it provides a harder finish. I also found a use for oil-based paint (Behr, not Rustoleum) for my interior floorboards. I took my inspection lid to a big box to be scanned and they mixed up a quart to match. They recommended Penetrol to aid in the flow. You can see the match in the pic.

post-22303-14150825352742_thumb.jpg

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You make up the price with the labor. It's all about how much your time is worth. I don't have much spare cash, so my choice is easy, LOL.

Exactly. Being 20 and living on my own in the city, it'd take me months of saving. So there's a time factor either way. May as well save a grand and do it myself. I just don't live somewhere spraying is an option.

The link worked fine for me, very interesting read. Noteworthy update at the top of the page about marine paint now being the product of choice - I suspect it provides a harder finish. I also found a use for oil-based paint (Behr, not Rustoleum) for my interior floorboards. I took my inspection lid to a big box to be scanned and they mixed up a quart to match. They recommended Penetrol to aid in the flow. You can see the match in the pic.

Very nice! I worry a little about some of the hard to reach places in achieving a smooth gloss finish. However, I'd be repainting the same color, or as close as I could so maybe it wouldn't be much of an issue.

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I have never seen a quote for less than 5k for my car. How are you guys finding people who will paint it for 1200!!

Are you doing all the sanding priming and they are just painting. Paint costs about 800 bucks!!

He would do the prep, repair the minor dings, etc. But I'd have to buff it myself. Only problem is he's not willing to touch the rust - no matter what I pay him. My father is a Mechanic, and the fellows shop is directly across from him. They do body/paint work and mechanical work favors for each other all the time, and I've known him since I was probably 12. So he'd give me a deal.

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I figure I will have a $1000 or more in just paint, primer and fillers when I am done. That doesn't include paper, sanding blocks, lacquer thinner, etc. Automotive paint is very expensive and to do a high level paint job takes time and money. I already have a hundred hours or so in just paint labor and block sanding and I haven't started on the shell yet. The hood, doors, fenders, hatch and headlight buckets are close and the under side of the shell is done. At $50 an hour for shop time you can see how paint jobs get expensive. And I am not a Noob at this, I have painted several cars...

Charles

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Very interesting, while my Z was up at my buddies place for paint a few months ago his son (about 24yrs old) kept going on about how I should use Rustoleum because their choice of colours apparently has opened up and he was going on about his friend who painted his car following a website and the his results were very impressive. I shrugged him off at the time but maybe I shouldn't have. I know first hand that as long as you have adequate depth of paint and free labour then colour sanding can bring out show quality results. My only reservation would be the lifespan of the paint and would it take a clear coat. Marine paint has certainly proved its self. For me this is worth a 2nd look as the paint that was just sprayed in the spring is proving to be soft and I'm seeing the flaws in my prep work.

Chris

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Some people have run a clear over the paint, but most do not. If you read through that link to the mopar site (it's a huge, huge read, but many experiences and pictures are included) you'll come across some folks to refer to clearcoats.

You're right about the depth of paint issue. That's why rustoleum requires 7 coats or so - it has to be put on quite thin to prevent runs and bubbles, and because it takes so dang long to fully cure. A few people note that a single unthinned coat failed to cure after two months in 70-80 degree weather with fairly low humidity.

Brightside and some other marine paints go on thicker and self-level, and people were seeing quality results after 2-3 coats versus 5-7. For me, that amount of (potential) time savings is worth the price of the paint, which is 2-3 times more expensive than rustoleum in the same size cans. The benefit to rustoleum or similar is that there is a far greater variety of color available - but I like the basic stuff.

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