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Bottle jack was #1 helper for me too.

Yeah, that's good to know. You wouldn't want that flowing coolant.

I think he's saying it won't turn over now.

If your talking about that big pipe below the head on the block that's for the PCV system. A hose runs from there to the PCV valve screwed in under your intake. I can't get the pictures in my library to cooperate right now. OK I got it. Where the red line is.

If your talking about that big pipe below the head on the block that's for the PCV system. A hose runs from there to the PCV valve screwed in under your intake.

My Dad worked at a Goodyear plant when those little Honda Civiccs first came out and if somebody drove one they would pick it up with a forklift and hide it, damage be damned. Now there's a Honda plant here that buys tires from that same Goodyear plant. He's retired long ago and drives an American made Toyota.

According to Tom Monroe's book, pages 130 & 131, "if it's to the left it's retarded and the sprocket should be re-positioned clockwise to the next dowel hole and align 2 timing mark at teeth-if originally at 1- to bright link". That makes no sense to me though but that's what he wrote. EDIT: Could it have gotten off TDC a little?

It could be coming from your gear shifter boot. Under the leather one there's a rubber one that can get loose and open up a big hole. I don't remember but you might have to remove the console, but it's easy, few screws in the armrest compartment and some more up front in the foot wells. I just remembered, after a swig of coffee, you will have to remove it. The leather boot is held down with some metal clips under the console. Good luck finding that leak, it could be dangerous as was pointed out to me by a fellow member who said a late night drive with the fumes could turn into more than a stinking problem. More coffee; you could use a flashlight to shine up or down around the boot then climb under your car and look for the light shining through. Just a thought.

A Fram G3 is the filter most people use between the tank and the fuel pump, it's what I have, it's clear plastic. You can get them most anywhere for around $4. There has been some members that used an after market check valve, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/41635-fuel-pump-check-valve.html. I've had a glass filter before my fuel rail for over a year without any problems.

You'll need a tetanus shot too.

Sell it and take your new relationship person on a nice vacation.

They're like my blue jeans I guess, they get tighter over time, so I'll have to keep them loosened up no matter what.

Wick Humble's book, page 194, talks about a recall for '78s "High-Idle Problems". I could scan it for you later today if it's something you haven't read. Mostly the PCV system re-routing and a newer PCV valve off a '79, cleaning the throttle plate and changing the return spring.

I googled the VIN# from mine and found a video telling all about the car and why he wanted to sale it, a retired Veteran that could hardly get in or out of it anymore much less work on it. Also a Photobucket account he created that had 40 pictures. I like the stories about these old cars.

Jenny's enthusiasm and Leon's knowledge got me to check the valves on my 240 I bought a few months ago. I use the "Fits or Don't Fit" method and all 12 were "Don't Fit" so I loosened them up and WOW, what a difference. Cranks on the first bump of the key, previously it took 3 and I just thought that was the way the choke works. Brought the idle down and it now has a slight lope. It's pulling between 17 and 18 off the brake booster vacuum bung. I'm very pleased to say the least. Thanks!

I removed that coolant block and my AAR works like it should. But I do live a little closer to the equator than you so I'm bowing out on this one.

What about that bolt in the thermostat housing everybody talks about going too far in? EDIT: that bolt hits the timing chain guide. SORRY

I'm a little slow, just saw this, now I'm wiping snot off my face from laughing.

I had to grind the sides of my 17 mm crows foot down quite a bit. Seems like it was hitting up against the next locking nut on #1. Jenny's happy, we're all happy.

Maybe one of your water pump bolts cracked the front cover? I hope you get that figured out.

Thanks Guys! I'll get mine sooner than later now, just need more $$. Always needing Datsun money.

dltalfa would you rate the difficulty of that once you've finished for me please, maybe 1 thru 10, 10 being the worst job ever. I've got to replace mine soon. Thanks, Cliff

Scroll all the way down and you'll see the decals and places to get them. XenonS30 - Painting Your Engine Banzai has more.

There's some restorations here; http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/47863-lime-green-machine-restoration-thread-1972-240z.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/48360-240z-rebuild-restoration-right-down-shell.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/48337-280z-rebuild-ground-up.html

Wow that's one heck of a car. He never cranked it though.