siteunseen

Thank you Mr Warner. I'll have to read that a few times to wrap my head around it though. 8^)

If it's what I'm thinking I went around mine with a wooden wedge and tapped it with a hammer. Mine wasn't leaking but rubbing where the drive shaft sled up into that. Made a scrapping sound until I tapped it out evenly. I'm not sure we're talking about the same thing though. 8^(

The truth hurts so here goes, trade Red-Bird for a Camry or Accord unless your husband left a little insurance policy so you can buy one. I paid $2,000 for my '00 eight years ago and have 279,000 on it now. I could get in it right now and drive to drink coffee with Zed Head on the west cost in a day or two. I love Zs but they're toys after 40 years.

Could we plug yours and leave them on? Put some increment markings on there. Would the air box still fit? I really like your's. 8^)

They may not be NLA but Nissan would be high $$$. Try and find a part number, Courtesey Nissan would have one. I think a reman would be fine, for what thats worth. 8^)

I imagine it's also, according to him, NLA.

Trickery

Can you help me out @Jeff G 78

I think I'll need a vacuum pump to get to 20 off the distributor? Then I eliminate that from my total. So with a vacuum pump I need to dial back my light to 27? Sorry to be a pita but the unknown scares me.

If the vacuum is unhooked do I still add the 20 into my total? Should it be 47 or 27? Or should the vacuum advance be hooked up instead of plugged? Thanks for any help, I'm confused once again.

I can was thinking the same Chas, wasn't 100 percent though. Check zcardepot too.

My 12 volt battery connects straight to the starter? California datsun does a lot of smoke and mirror tricks in their advertising.

"How to modify" book shows a lightweight gear reduction starter. I think I have one that came with some Z parts I bought. I'll see if I can find and get some info for you.

Finally had time to use Chas's brackets. It was tough getting the ends bolted down below the front marker light but after loosening the front spoiler and inner fender I was able to access that area with my hands and the tools I needed. The brackets to the frame and my 240 bumper were super easy, 30 minutes. The 10mm bolt on the ends took about an hour. It's nice and sturdy and ready to be painted, not by me though, I'm selling that car most likely. Thank you Chas!

That's a darn good idea! I have to unhook the hose each time. New hoses for me. Thanks

https://www.google.com/search?site=&source=hp&ei=p_12V7qMI-XPjwTazaG4BA&q=z+emblem+restore+hardway+classiczcars.com&oq=z+emblem+restore+hardway+classiczcars.com&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.12...3407.38143.0.40113.38.35.3.2.2.0.419.8722.0j3j27j4j1.35.0....0...1c.1.64.mobile-gws-hp..0.25.5363.3..0j41j0i131j0i10j0i22i10i30j0i22i30j33i21j30i10j33i13i21.HkjPDnjZ6U8

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/49682-diy-datsun-script-emblem-repair-refurbishment/

Google "z emblem restore hardway classiczcars.com" and see if his thread comes up. It has the details. I think I used #4-10 stove bolts for mine. They're actually smaller than eighth inch studs.

I sold PPG paint for years, four years. I had know idea they had separated the two. Learned my new thing for the day, thank you zKars.

Mine from Nissan are 1/8". I can't measure the studs on an emblem, they're all on my cars.

He probably used the 2.6 block to accommodate the larger valves that are most likely installed in the E88 cylinder head. I had to "notch" my 2.4 with a die grinder. The bigger valves will hit the sides of the smaller bore. Here's some pictures,

I found the Excel spreadsheet Walter Moore made. I have the D6K8-05 10 degrees at idle 17 weights 20 vacuum 47 total @2,500 rpms Thank you @Walter Moore D6K8-05 10 17 20 47 2500 27 M 1979

I'm going to try and set my total timing today after finally getting the fuel levels right. Does this sound right? 1. idle at 750 rpms 2. plug vacuum hose 3. set to 17 degrees 4. set light offset to 34 degrees 5. run it up to 3,000 rpms 6. adjust distributor until "0" pulley mark hits on light strobes Thanks for any advice and my ZX distributor has 8.5 stamped on the weights. EDIT, I have know idea what pinging sounds like so I'm using my high dollar light.

Look for a solid black wire on the negative side of the coil. It runs from the distributor to the coil or vice versa? that's the tach signal. I believe you have a blown fuse though. Here's some helpful stuff for your car. Look under ELECTRICAL then cleaning connections, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html I think most vacuum leaks are a tear in the rubber accordian hose between the AFM and throttle body. Some silicone will seal them up.

When I had the problem it was back charging through the IGN circuit, blew that fuse and killed all my gauges. No tach or temp, volt gauge, nothing. The original one at top, the newly remanufactured one on bottom.