siteunseen

Mine was just like what Zed says. The potentiometer was to add fuel on mine. It would spit and sputter through the intake and buck like a mad horse until 2,500 rpms then it ran good and pulled hard.

Is this fine tip Sharpie what I need to use? Silver is the color. Thanks!

My first rebuild it was in a felpro gasket kit for my 280. When I did my 240 I tapped one out of the gray gasket material you buy at chain stores. I like it best, its thicker. Lay a piece down and tap around the pickup tube then cut it out with a razor knife. I bought a hole punch at the Dollar Store for the bolt holes because I had to make a bunch of gaskets for the 2.4

Black rivets part number 90909-E4100, pack of 10.

Beermanpete's post, one before your's, #23. If you still have points set the ignition timing using the "dead timing" method (after checking/setting the point gap). Also, I don't see any confirmation in your posts that you have spark. Make sure you have spark at the plugs before going crazy with the timing and firing order. Perhaps there is a problem in the primary wiring.

112 & 918 are the '70s. 8^) He'll need a full dust cover behind the flywheel too, right? Is that bushing you're talking about the pilot bushing? Most good clutch kits come with one, my Exedy did.

The TPS may need adjusting. One screws locks it down the other has some movement for adjusting. Pop the cover off and see what rpms it moves off the right side contact.

I'm almost positive those lights come out through the back. No need to remove the finisher panel. I would do this first. Mine were bad dried up and cracked. Zed Head reccomendation on sealing that vinyl access panel on the inside bottom of the hatch would be next, for me. I had my spoilers painted and removed them. While that piece was off I was overwhelmed with fumes. DUI defense?

Thats the right numbers, I googled them real quick.

Google/images these numbers to make sure. The date matches up to my new tail lights purchase butt they have different descriptions and are priced a couple more bucks for one than the other? Same exact gaskets just different sides. 26552-E4100 RIM-COMB LAMP $34.29 26557-E4100 GASKET-LAMP $28.96 I've got pictures on my laptop I can post in the morning. I'm using my phone at the moment. I'll check back in the a.m Cliff

Wouldn't the rear spoiler disrupt the "back draft" effect on his car, for better or worse? I've got the part number for the tailight rubber if you need them. Still available from Nissan, my local dealership ordered mine. Maybe that's why I have no smell but I was thinking my spoiler caused it to ramp up and away instead of rolling back into the hatch area? What kind of shape is the rubber boot under the leather boot at the shifter?

What about adding a tip extension on the muffler?

Retraction! Can't do squat from my phone. Locks up every time. 8^(

I put 2 four inch Pyles from walmart behind the headrest on my '77. Fit perfect and cost $30 or something close plus the oe front speaker, sounds good sitting in the garage but fire it up with the header and 2.5" exhaust from msa and I just as well sing to myself, "hold me closer, Tony Danza" by Elton John.

'96 Sentra for sale, $800 to a friend, $1,000 to a stranger. A man that sleeps in this heat has to make mortgage payments regardless. 8^) Refraction: car's being sold to my niece.

I'm fighting mine for covers right now! Spoiled rotten early on.

I learn more about our Country watching television on the 4th than 12 years in public schools. Don't blow your fingers off and let the dog inside tonight during the fireworks show.

I'm glad you posted that. I need to permanently set my potentiometer with meter. It's a volume knob that I've adjusted by the seat of my pants and the TEMP gauge. It's been laying in the passenger's floorboard for a couple of years now.

The repair article I found, http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Possibly in the combination switch? I have know idea but they do power through there and arc a little when turned on causing carbon build up. That's why I'm limiting my night driving until I get Dave Erwins headlight upgrade.

I got in my 280 one night and found I had no dash lights. After reading a bunch of possible causes I came across this "How to Repair" for a 240Z which is pretty much the same. After I did this they were much brighter and the dimmer knob actually made a difference when I turned it. http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf Here's a picture of the top side, the carbon build up is under this.

The first two lobes should be like a V, not straight up, maybe 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock?

There's an article on flipping the carbon covered plates in the combo switch. I can post it tomorrow. It really brightened mine up.

Your right Jai, love is blind. I've been down that road before and that's why I said what I did, experience. I had an '81 911 that I loved and worked on constantly spending a life's savings. Sold it and bought a Camry then I was able to buy the Zs from cutting my losses with the Porsche. I apologize for speaking my mind but as stated above you could spend $1,500 at least on a good a/c for Red Bird. Hopefully a $100 worth of R-12a Red Tek will get you through the summer. I just got a Nissan Sentra with cold air for $500. It's not pretty but runs good and gets 35 MPG plus bone chilling air. Cheap grocery getters are out there. I don't see how you do it, I'm 47 and can hardly get out of mine. Working on it myself saves me money but I turn around and spend that on pain pills and stay in bed the next day.