Captain Obvious

Have you tried one of these?

I would try to source a replacement ECU before I would try a component level repair on the old one. Those kinds of repairs sometimes spiral into unexpected complications and I wouldn't try it unless you had verified the failure first and had a backup plan in place. I've got a spare ECU (from a 77) if you just wanted to try one to see if it fired all six injectors. I was told that it gets squirrelly on hot days after it heats up, and I have verified that it tests fine on the bench when cool. Would work at least to confirm that your ECU is the problem.

If you got 11.9 on all six injector pins at the ECU with the ECU disconnected, then yes... It points away from a harness issue and towards the ECU.

I'm thinking ECU. The ECU has two big output transistors that fire the injectors in banks of three, and if one of those transistors burns open, you will lose those three injectors. There aren't a lot of other things that could cause you to drop three injectors like that at the same time. As you already noticed, the dropping resistor does four and two so that's probably not it. And while it is possible that the wiring to the front three of the injectors is screwed up inside the harness, I consider it unlikely. Why? Because each injector gets it's own independent wire from the ECU to the injector. So sure... It's possible that a PO cut three of those wires, but I consider it more likely that the ECU is the root cause. I'm in the Philly area if you get stuck. I'm no FI expert, but I know some stuff. PM me if you need a hand.

Volleyball and Z's? You go brother!! I played last night! Tough match against a good team, but thankfully we won two out of three. And now it's days like today that I wish I had power steering in the Z...

I'm not sure if picture hanging wire you would find at a hardware store is going to be good enough for this. You definitely need something pretty high quality for this. You definitely need something heat treated. Probably tempered back from full hard, but certainly not something annealed and malleable. Couple ideas: Last time I needed a cable for something similar, I went to a junkyard and harvested a cable from another vehicle. Didn't matter what it came from as long as it was longer than what I needed. I then trimmed the jacket and snipped the wire to fit and bent the necessary features on the ends of the wire. Other idea would be to support absolutely as much of the wire as possible. In other words... Extend the jacketing beyond the clamp(s) as far as you can before they start to interfere with the movement of the actuating arm. I don't know anything about the 240 control head as all my experience is with later designs, but it looks like you might be able to extend the jacket a half inch or more to help support the cable before it gets to the arm?

Need a screen? Use a couple handfuls of that swarf!! Nice machining work! Is that adapter aluminum or steel?

As with most cars, reverse is not synchronized. That means in order to shift into reverse without grinding, all the guts inside the transmission must be dead still before the reverse teeth engage or they will clash. When the clutch is depressed, even if everything is adjusted correctly there is often still enough drag on the clutch disk to keep it spinning with the flywheel and pressure plate unless there is something that makes it stop. This is even more prevalent when the tranny oil is hot and thin. The friction from cold thick gear oil will stop the spinning quickly, but hot thin oil may not. Shifting into any forward gear will stop the internals, and then a quick shift into reverse should go in without any grind.

Haha! Like the diff straps! Reminds me that I'm still running the original "temporary" one I made up before ZCON. I need to finish up that project and make a better one. At this point, I guess I'll just wait for the off season.

I think I understand the problem now.... The mounting bushing on the new antenna is not designed to be used on an angled surface like the original was. Or at least not as extreme of an angle? Any chance you could just use the old dome from your original antenna to give yourself the adjustment you need? Or is it dust? Maybe a belt sander to the bottom of the new bushing to angle the surface to better match the contour of the body? Could you do that such that the modified surface is hidden down inside the rubber seal? Some black or clear silicone schmutz to help with water ingression?

I'm not sure I understand the problem... Is it that the body tube an the aftermarket antennas is too long to allow you to swing it into place?

Are you sure it was pizza and not Farmer Vincent's fritters. Oh wait... You said it was a movie that was NOT horrible. Nevermind.

Been a long time since I've looked at a carbed fuel rail... Are there insulating plastic bits to act as a thermal break between the head and the rail?

With a stock system, the orifice on the return line should bleed off all pressure in the rail as soon as the fuel pump stops pumping. I guess it's possible for the fuel in the rail to become superheated and then all of a sudden "burst" into a boil during engine off heat soak? Maybe that generates enough of a pressure impulse to force fuel past the needle valves before the orifice bleeds the pressure off? Maybe some liquid "hammering" as bubbles alternate with liquid trying to get through the orifice rapidly? The second reason (as Zkars suggested) is exactly what the needle valve is supposed to do... Regulate the fuel level in the bowl. And as for the third reason, I would be hard pressed to be convinced that the vent tube cannot dissipate vapor pressure quickly enough such that pressure would build up in the bowl. I'll offer up a fourth idea... My understanding of percolation is just like the old school coffee pot. You boil the liquid and the frothing emulsion of bubbles and liquid not only takes up more volume than plain liquid, but the frothing can also temporarily block off the vent tube hole with a slug of liquid making the jet hole in the venturi an equally attractive temporary exit during the boil.

I've got a speedo from a 78 that has both MPH and KPH on it. Would that be of any interest?

Chas, Looks great. Good luck with the project. I've never messed with any of that stuff, but if there's anything I can do to help, just let me know.

Nice work. You've got a welder and you're not afraid to use it!

Site, The roadrash is probably from hanging off the side of the cycle in those high speed turns in your youth. Glad you don't do that anymore! Remind me the next time we get together to tell you about my experiences with my drupes while on the track at speed on two wheels. Nick Mason as in Pink Floyd? I knew he's a car guy, but didn't know he had one of those. Good for him!

I think the 250GTO is one of the, if not THE, most beautiful automobiles to ever to grace the world. I would give my left nut for one of those. In fact, at my age, I think I would give both nuts for one of those...

Sorry. but I got pretty much nuthin. Second spring probably gets installed over a shaft with a slot in the middle, and as you mentioned, is used in a twisting/rotating application. First spring? No idea. Looks like a collapsed compression spring that is binding all the coils which is very unlikely. Not used for rotation or extension. Weird...

Wow. I'm impressed! If I sent you a print, would you make some simple sheet metal parts for me?

I was thinking the same thing.

Here are some pics of the steering rack springs. They're all compression springs with space between the coils. Friction shoe: Inner tie rod ends:

That first spring... There was a compression spring for the adjustable friction shoe that put pressure on the rack. But unless it is completely collapsed with the coils binding and touching, that isn't it. Can you take a pic showing one of the ends? I don't know about the second spring either. It looks a little bluish in color. Is it painted the body color of your Z?

The change from two lines to three is when they went away from the flow guide valve crankcase venting and adopted the more effective CARB charcoal canister. Documentation says 74. but from what I've heard, the scale tends to slide a little and not always be a hard cutoff at a year.