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About Rob1972

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    Registered User


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    Scottsdale, AZ

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    '72 auto - converted to '81 5 speed and 4.11 R200 rear-end. Original L24 w/ 115K miles, no rust, no leaks. SU's, header, 3 row alum rad, 4 piston calipers, 280Z dizzy with HEI ignition module. Factory color #112 concealed by Arizona white.

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  1. Beginning buildup of my '72 240Z and a F54 / P90a with triple carbs...looking at notches for injectors and choices for manifold gaskets. I've seen lots of gaskets that follow the outline of the notches and another one that covers the notch. Seems to me that for better airflow I should block the notch with the full circle style gasket. Recommendations? Also wondering if some have welded the notches up and grind as necessary.
  2. Need Time Sert installation tool to convert P90A hydraulic lifters to mechanical. The job requires threaded inserts (easy and inexpensive) using a special tool only available in a complete kit including bit, countersink, tap & installation tool (one-time use and very expensive - $200+). I only need the installation tool. Size M18 1.5 but with special threading at tip. Anyone have the kit or individual tool for sale, rent or ??? I'm trustworthy. Rob in Arizona
  3. Whew! Shaving those costs down by producing the identical part for two purposes. Thanks!
  4. I knew that installing my car lift would be a boon for really seeing the truth under my 240. For years, I've laid on concrete in the dark trying to get an accurate picture of its condition. What I was surprised to see in the light of day was the rear control arm on the passenger side oriented so that the 'concave' or 'recesses' are facing down. The drivers side rear control arm is oriented in the opposite fashion - facing up. Is this 'Datsun design' or a mechanic's Friday afternoon special? Passenger side (looking rearward): Driver's side (looking rearward):
  5. Very do-able. I went a step further than plugs - replaced my balance tube with one that is smoothed and polished, only a single vacuum port for the brake booster. At some point I'm going to add a port to the balance tube for my vacuum advance, rather that using the carb port. Dump the smog pump and attachments as well.
  6. When I was just a young pup, working my first real job, I shared on office with an older guy named Carl. Carl was a chain smoker and loved the bottle. He was a decent enough worker, but the best thing about Carl was that he drove a 1972 240Z. You couldn’t miss it because it was painted the infamous factory #112 (Yellow). Let’s face it, that color is not yellow, it is chartreuse or some other blend of yellow and green. What it really was though, was memorable. At least for me. I wanted a 240Z. A few years later when my Datsun 510 Wagon blew its head gasket, I nosed around for a 240Z, but didn’t find much. I didn’t work really hard at it, because my friends all said to avoid the dual carbs, and go with fuel injection. I didn’t know too much about carbs at the time, so I went with that advice and found a ’76 280Z. Bad choice. Within a month, all six fuel injectors clogged and had to be replaced, gas tank and lines flushed, etc. Goodbye $1000. Later, I found broken glass in the spare tire wheel well. Hmmm. Oh well, I loved the car anyway and proceeded to drive the snot out of that baby for 5 years. I got tired of the lack of air conditioning in the 280, and when the MAF failed, I faced a $1200 decision. The car already had over 100K miles, and I was moving to Phoenix so A/C is a must. I bought a new Honda, and let the idea of the 240Z go, but not completely. Ten years and three cars later, I revisited the idea of finding a 240 again. It didn’t have to be my daily driver and I was better versed in auto repair, so the carbs didn’t scare me as much. I did eventually find one, in the same way everyone found them pre-Internet: After negotiating the price down, not because of condition, but because I really wanted a stick shift, and to have to replace the tranny and buy a clutch was going to cost so very much, blah, blah, blah…. $2700 was agreed on. I did convert it over to a 5 speed and installed a 4.11 rear-end, but about that time, my wife and I started to raise our family, remodeling the house and (many) other distractions, and the 240 never really got to the top of the pile. Ashamedly, I used the Z more as a table than a driving car. Drove it off and on over 20 years, mostly letting the work I did to get it running go to waste as it sat again for a few years. With an 18 year old about to go off to college, and managing to get the 240 to the top of the list (at times), I’ve really been able to focus on getting him running strong, carbs perfectly tuned. Loving the daily drives to the grocery store, or winding roads to the high country. Still a lot of work to do, but very drivable and still looks very good to this day, with the 20 year old Arizona white paint still deep and glossy. I’ve put more miles on him in the last six months than I have in the previous 20 years! The ironic part of this car story? Under the white paint is the original color, for all to see in the engine bay - yep, you guessed it - #112 Yellow - just like Carl’s from 36 years ago!
  7. Yeah, it was just a mental blip that zoomed through my little head. I'm not a pimp. Really. But I love those louvres, Sean. Nice work, I will follow your refresh on them, as mine jump around too. I have a receipt for them from 1979...$99.00
  8. Yes they fit a 240... Long term plan is to go with Candy Red with black and chrome accents. Would I be pimped out if I chromed the louvres? Opinions?
  9. Sweatybetty has a build going where he used a new wire harness, it's pretty sweet: hope that link worked Nice car...!
  10. RS02, in post 51 you question your float level, but now you say you're sure the bowls are fine. The two are closely related - if the banjo filters are caked with corrosion and fine particles (like mine were), your float level will not be correct during operation because the fuel flow could be very restricted.
  11. Recovering from shoulder surgery is sooo boring - what to do? A new shift knob! I've wanted to replace my black rubber pistol grip with a wood knob, but couldn't find anything I liked. I like things a bit unique so I just couldn't go for the standard wood blank. So after digging around online I found an eBay seller who hand made a laminated birch knob with a brass insert - to give it some heft. I hemmed and hawed, but finally plunked down the $100, pretty steep but as an artist myself I appreciate hand crafted over 'manufactured', and am willing to pay more for it. After all, the knob and steering wheel are the centerpiece of any interior, IMO. I'd like to orient the knob in a particular way, to show off the best sides and was thinking of using blue loc-tite to set it where I want it. Any problems with that? Sent from my iRecliner... Here's the suspect:
  12. Jeff, great info and thanks for the clarification. I thought Zed meant sidewall 'height', not sidewall to sidewall width (section width - which I didn't know existed!). From now on it's 'section width' not 'tread width'.
  13. Beg to differ: In Zed's example 205/70/14 = 205mm tread width, 70% of the tread width is the sidewall height (called aspect ratio), with 14 inch wheel diameter.
  14. If anybody else is interested: A little research turned up an aluminum bung to weld to the bottom of the tank: And an all aluminum draincock from the Corvette guys: I haven't checked on sizing yet but I imagine 3/8 being standard.