Captain Obvious

My only experience is with the Hitachi licensed varieties so I've never seen those others without the milled slot. Thanks for that pic of the others! So you really think yours are resting on those stops at idle? Are you sure you don't have any vacuum leaks? At idle, it's especially important to have every molecule of air going through the venturis instead of around them. An easy way to tell if you're on the stops is to remove the damper plungers and use a small screwdriver to push the pistons down while the engine is running. See if there is a change when you force the piston all the way to the bottom?

Haha! Seek help. I got my order today as well and everything seems to be mostly in order. Only issue I have is that I bought rubber squeegee window "dew wipes" and the little black plastic ends were laying loose in the bags. They just need to be glued back on. Not a big deal. Especially for the price.

How about you mount a pair of fuel injectors inside the stock air cleaner box aimed into the mouth of each carb? Remove the suction pistons and put the domes back on. Disconnect the original fuel line back at the tank and install an electric EFI pump back at the tank. One dead headed innocuous black fuel line running into the fuel filter to feed the injectors. Hey... Nobody said it was a GOOD idea...

Forgot something... This part about "The piston has to be held mechanically slightly off the bridge to allow SOME air to get through." I'm no SU expert, but I do not believe that to be true. I would propose that's what the milled slot down the center of the piston does. It provides a passageway across the bridge right at the needle even when the piston is all the way down.

There was some discussion between Blue and I about that little nubbin in this thread. About halfway down: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40640-su-mixture-question/ I ran some tests on my carbed Z a number of years ago (so the details are fuzzy) where I actually measured the height of the piston lift at idle, and (in my car at least) the pistons were NOT resting on those little stops even at idle. In other words, even at idle, there was some piston lift and the protrusion height of those phenolic stops was a non-sequitur. I thought I had documented the results of those tests somewhere on here, but darned if I could find it... Fading memory says my nubbin stops resulted in a .005 inch gap between the bottom of the piston and the bridge. IIRC, I had .008 inches gap at idle meaning that my pistons had lifted .003 off the stops. I wonder if those nubbins were characterized and shaved at the factory, or if proper operation includes being lifted off the stops, even at idle. Maybe you're a little rich at idle and by increasing that bumper height, you have leaned it out a little and the engine likes it?

Interesting devices. I think I need to read more about them... I think you need an ECU and sensors too, right?

I found that beveling the inside corners of the driver's side bushing allowed it to fit much better. Here's a pic of what I did to mine and there are lots more pics in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/

Looks like the impeller vanes are worn shiny at the outside tips from contact with the front cover. If that's the case, then no wonder it was noisy! You had metal to metal contact! On edit - And if there was contact inside, what did the front cover look like?

Louon, Thats a good point. We've been focused on Florida, but they didn't even get the worst of that thing! Stay safe and dry, and I hope things dry out quickly.

Some of the Fiero folks have messed around with installing the Vue pump as well. Here's a thread from the Fiero forum that details one install. There might be some applicable tidbits in there. Things like cutting parts off the module/motor to reduce the size and make it easier to fit into place: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/095326.html

Ooooo,!! Oooooo!! I'll go first. I see dirt!! .... What do I win?

Wow... Batten down the hatches guys! And please report in roll call after it's over??

"Cool" yes, but "robust" maybe not. I'm a little skeptical about NOS rubber things. Most stuff NOS is great, but old rubber, even if new and stock, isn't always the best idea. Would be perfect for a trailer queen though! I don't think I kept those old boots. I keep many old parts, even if worn out, but I think those boots hit the round file.

I bought the car used so I cannot know for positive sure, but from the looks of the old boots that I took off, I would guess that they were the ones that came on the car from the factory when new. I don't remember if that apparent wider convolution spacing was as pronounced as it appears in the photo. It certainly didn't seem to be really needed for any "functional" reason.

Mine was Led Zep IV. I played that thing so many times that all the songs were longer from years of tape stretch.

I've seen electric power steering systems grafted into other cars as well, and believe this could be a fine modification to the Z. My sports related worn out shoulders would appreciate some help in parking lots sometimes.

Hmmm... I thought the whole point of the carbon can recovery system is that you should NOT smell gas fumes. If you're smelling fumes, I suspect the carbon in the canister is saturated and cannot retain any more fuel molecules. Are you sure your purge system is working properly?

I understand... I'm going to be screwed the next time I need a replacement car. I don't have a smartphone either.

If you are so inclined you can add a tilt mechanism? I see what you did there.

Yeah baby!!! A free Z!! I think I'm good on bumper trim, but I could use a steering column to mess with. And a power brake booster to scavenge for parts to put together one good one. Oh, and inner tie rod ends that I can screw around with too... I want to try to cut open a pair like @EuroDat did.

That's what I was suspecting. It comes down to expectations... You had none, so the hard pedal was "normal". I would fix the system up as soon as you can afford though. And after what I've seen with the rebuilt units, I'd be comfortable running a used booster as long as it has never inhaled brake fluid from a failed master cylinder. As Patcon mentioned above, that's probably the most common cause of a failed booster. pffffft... Never driven anything older than 97. I've not yet owned anything NEWER than 99. Ever!! Even my kids car is seven years newer than mine. Man... I gotta get out more.

Awesome! Just remember that now you're driving around with rock hard brakes. They work, but could be a problem in a panic situation, I got my rebuilt booster from Rock Auto, and I didn't check stock, but I would be surprised if the one I got was their last one. I would assume they have more. But if I were going through it again, I think I would pay a little extra at a brick-n-mortar local store for the ability to open the box and see the booster before I paid for it. Out of curiosity... You bought the car and it came to you with the booster blocked off with that bolt, right? Didn't the brakes feel a little firm to you? Or since you had never driven one before, you thought they were supposed to feel like that?

I'm no marine biologist, but I've heard they use this process undersea with the help of sharks.

Me too. I promise I won't tell you mine if you promise not to tell me yours. Not counting either of us, of course!

Naaa. No disappointment. I understand completely. My time married is less than yours, but it's a lesson that doesn't take thirty-five years to learn.