Captain Obvious

There's so much religion and hearsay around motor oils that I usually don't pay much attention. But I'm glad I watched that video. Guy actually applied science, credible documentable references, and theory*. I'm glad I watched that one. * Not just "Last year, my cousins boyfriend put <oil brand> into his small block and it wiped his cam. And stuff"

Yes, that plastic piece is a travel stop, and you should really have one in there. If that stop is missing, the lever travel could be too much and the rear adjustment system may not work properly.

Would have loved to go for a ride when we were at Zcon. If I had been feeling better we could have changed a radiator and then gone for a rip!

Woof. Glad you can salvage that! Yuck.

Haha! No, thankfully I have never seen that modification.

@Mike , I've been reporting the posts as well. Is the "report" function working?

@Mike They are multiplying!! This is number three in the last week or so!!

Just a (probably unnecessary) precaution. It's the same wire that runs to the voltage regulator, but it probably has more electrical noise the closer you get to the coil. Even though it's the same wire, there's some filtering that will occur as a result of the natural inductance and capacitance that will exist in the length of wire over on the other side of the engine compartment. I wouldn't be surprised if the voltage dips more (when the points are closed) over by the coil than it would over at the regulator. And the voltage will blip higher when the points open closer to the coil than by the regulator. Even though it's the same wire. Again, probably doesn't really matter if you're just hanging a relay on it, but if given a choice, I'd tap in as far from the coil as would be convenient.

I don't think that is going to work. None of the connections on the back of the alternator will do what you want. The connection that you are thinking of as "only having an output when the car is running" is connected to the battery. So regardless if the car is running or not, that wire will be at battery voltage.

@Mike It's still a bot!!

I bow to you good sir and have no further skepticism. And not only that, but according to the FSM, you clearly followed the recommended test procedures. I am impressed!

Pics or it didn't happen.

If you are looking for a wire out in the engine bay that goes hot only when the ignition is ON, I think your only* choice is the B/W wire going to the voltage regulator. *There is also the same B/W wire going to the coil (+) side, but I'm thinking it would be better to keep your connection away from the ignition system if possible.

Last thought... I think that welding the buckets to the fenders and removing that seam line is a great improvement to the looks of the car. When done right, of course.

The headlights are removed from behind. Inside the wheel well. So yes... You can remove the headlights without removing the bucket. In fact, there is no "maintenance" reason to ever remove a bucket. Only ever removed when doing bodywork on the car. It is my theory that the only reason the buckets exist in the first place (instead of making the fender and the bucket all one piece) is that Datsun could not manufacture the fender that way. The metal is not able stretch and shrink enough to make that possible. I think that if it were possible, they would have made it all one piece from the factory.

@Mike As the title of this thread suggests... It's hammer time. It's time for you to wield the ban hammer. Wield it like Thor. ☠️ *If you wield a tool or a weapon, you handle it effectively. Picture a gallant knight wielding a sword or a skillful chef wielding a whisk. Or picture Thor. Or Mike.

I have high confidence that Ellison is friends with Patel. In fact, I'm pretty sure they were both born in the same software lab.

@Mike

I really needed one more week to work on the OG before I left for Zcon. Just one more week would have made the whole drive so much less stressful. I would have known that I had a radiator problem and I would have mitigated it before I left. But I lost that week waiting for struts because Amazon screwed up. So here's where I am today. I took the leaky radiator I got at the show to a local radiator shop. They sealed up the leaks and pressure tested it. I swapped it into the car, and.... Driving around with no thermostat, it wouldn't even reach proper temperature!! Way better than what was in there! So just to see where the gauge would land, I put a 160 degree thermostat and went for a drive. It stabilized about here: So next chance I get, I will swap out the 160 for a 180 thermostat and check again to see where the gauge lands. But the bottom line is I'm a whole lot better off than I was with the previous radiator! I blame Amazon. And photobucket.

That's exactly what I did. Perfect!

That little adapter hose with the banjo is great for later round tops with the drain fitting. Same for the float-sync device. If you have earlier carbs without the drain, a little piece of tubing on the bottom of the bowl works. Down side is you can only use it static with the engine off.

Haha!! No, but I learned a new trick... I can hot spot my phone. So I bought a tablet thing device* that can do navigation so now I can GPS on the tablet THROUGH the flip phone. That's also how I was able to take a pic of me drinking beer on the patio at the hotel at Zcon. Hot spot the phone, tablet to the web, and show off my favorite shirt while guzzling beer: *It's a phased out Lenovo thing. Cost $40 closeout. Best forty bucks I've spent in a long time.

Put the tube on and crank the motor over.

Hahahahahahaha!!!!! ☺️ That's awesome!

Wait... I'm supposed to have straps under the seat bottom? So THAT'S what those stiff crusty things hanging down were supposed to be!!