hr369

the area that really surprised me was the roof,drip rail area. that was thicker looking metal but was pretty rusted. The last message was dated june 2011. Has the project been put on hold?

That was what i thought but i ran across this page. It changes the way i think about my 78 bumpers. 2) What is the purpose of bumpers? The car bumper is designed to prevent or reduce physical damage to the front and rear ends of passenger motor vehicles in low-speed collisions. Automobile bumpers are not typically designed to be structural components that would significantly contribute to vehicle crashworthiness or occupant protection during front or rear collisions. It is not a safety feature intended to prevent or mitigate injury severity to occupants in the passenger cars. Bumpers are designed to protect the hood, trunk, grille, fuel, exhaust and cooling system as well as safety related equipment such as parking lights, headlamps and taillights in low speed collisions. http://www.nhtsa.gov/Cars/Problems/studies/Bumper/Index.html

I don't get it. This appears to be a standard run of the mill 240z am radio. The seek function is worth that premium? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&rt=nc&nma=true&item=251104222323&si=BcFmbaq8lsOzXr14P%252F0FDcXjntc%253D&viewitem=&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

cheap quality retrofit adapters leak. those are the aluminum ones. here is a source for good quality ones in either brass or metal. and the price is less than what they charge for the elcheapos. the best fittings are the ones where you remove the original valve core. the cheaper ones just have a dummy valve core that pushes in on the old original valve core. lots of problems there because the dummy shafts sometimes bind and you get the hissing of freon. you can tap them sometimes with a small screwdriver and get them to seat, but for the same price you can get good quality valve cores. http://www.acsource.com/fittings.aspx

I might add that lots of r134 conversions were done on old worn compressors that still work, but their pressures at idle are not enough to keep the a/c cool. Summer is coming up and so does interest in a/c. If and when you retrofit to r134 with the original 30+ year old parts, do not expect new car performance from the ole a/c parts.

for me the fuel pump running before startup didn't cool down the injectors. i saw no improvment with hot starts. i cured the problem with installing a zx injector fan in my z. right now i'm just using a toggle switch to run it. it starts up beautifully every time now. i've got to put a timer into the circuit to complete the project. i could run alcohol free all the time but thats damn expensive here in hawaii. they sell it at the marina and its over 5 bucks a gallon. could you just take the thermostat part out of the loop and just have the timer run the fan for its duration? and in winter just shut the circuit down with a toggle switch?

you do realize that there is one set of fusible links not connected?. the other connections look questionable too. do yourself a favor and get a multimeter. a cheapo is under 10 bucks. if the car has sat in a damp garage for a while i would check the fuse box inside the car too. those connectors probably need cleaning with a small brass brush or emery cloth

look at the 4th picture down and of course if you like shelby mustangs there are other pictures. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221023938042+&viewitem=#ht_78351wt_1182

when they talk about rust free calif cars, i think they're referring to so cal cars. over 12 years ago i bought a 78 280 in santa rosa and the front hinge area and rocker dog leg was rusted out. its those damn rainy nor cal winters. check your front hinge area for rust.

thats very good advise. that stop leak gums up everything

is there oil around the front of your a/c compressor? if so, the front seal is leaking. another place that leaks is the high and low side charge ports. and lastly the rubber hoses can leak but those first 2 are the most common places to leak. you cannot just keep filling with freon though. whenever freon escapes it takes oil with it so you're probably running low on oil. ive replaced valve cores before and they've still leaked. probably the seat is bad but not sure. maybe just cheapo replacements. one quick fix is to get some r134 charge port fittings and remove the cores if they have any. then find a bolt that will thread into the top of the r134 fitting, most are threaded on the inside. i use teflon tape on the bolt thread too. then i screw the retrofit fitting over the top of my r12 charge ports and it seals pretty good. start the car and test with soap and water from a spray bottle. at the very least put a few oz. of oil in before you top off.

first thing i'de look at is fuel pressure. sounds like you're fuel pump is turning off

im assuming that from your signature. i bought one from BD for my 280 and it fits perfectly

saw a set of, new from the dealer, 280 visors sell for 300 bucks last week

Put me down for 1 or 2 depending on price. this would be great for those of us that hate auto electronics

What is the name of this body shop? Anyone who stands behind their work like that should get their name mentioned. Nice front spoiler. Looks good with the 78 bumper. I especially like the air ducts or are they for extra lights?

if you look on the backside of the door panel you can see the holes where the power window controls went. however i have not seen any usa cars with this option. was it only offered in oz and nz?

somebody welded up the hole. did you look from the inside of the firewall? if you scrape off the paint in the general area you can probably find the old holes. i think i see the faint outline of the top hole in the pic

holy crap you sure got your money's worth on that one dennis

why do you need measurements if its the same as the 280? just pull off the block off plate on your recipient car

im not sure about the early 260 but i had a late 260 and the lines went in the same place where the 280 lines went. if late and early 260 are the same then you do not have to drill any holes in the firewall for the high and low pressure lines. From the factory there is a block off plate screwed over the holes. Just remove it and feed the pipes thru. when you called it "factory" what did you mean by that? datsun factory or aftermarket factory? this is the engine compartment of a 260z with nissan factory a/c

well for me it was worth the time to get it where i liked it. having to slam the door every time makes you fell like the car is a pos, plus its not good for the window frame or glass and you could dent the weak metal just above the door handle.

sometimes body shops adjust things too perfect. I've found that if you open up the gap between the door and the quarter panel, i.e. move the door forward in adjustment, and the fender forward, the precision seals work fine. a good way to determine if the door gap is too tight is to close the door and look at the door from INSIDE the car where it meets the quarter panel/latch area. it will probably look like the door metal is very close in some areas or rather uneven or touching the gasket even before the door is fully closed.

atsg manual on cd rom. i need to buy one of these myself http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-L3N71B-ATSG-Techtran-MANUAL-on-CD-Repair-Rebuild-Transmission-Guide-/190648733972?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c638cd114&vxp=mtr

it is a reusable part, just clean it real good. its there to strain garbage out of the system. try asking this guy on ebay. he has some ac parts http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-280Z-A-C-Evaporator-Housing-/160763180345?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256e3b7539&vxp=mtr